Identify S&W Revolver
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otis24
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Hard to tell, but looks like someone put a Cerakote or Gunkote finish on it.
Inusuit
Member
People smarter than me will be along shortly with better information. In the meantime, I think you have a Smith and Wesson .38 Double-Action Second Model circa 1880-1884. Caliber .38 S&W (not .38 S&W Special). Five shot fluted cylinder. Barrel lengths were 3 1/4", 4", 5", and 6". I can't tell how long your barrel is, measure from the muzzle to the front of the cylinder. Black hard rubber grips with S&W monogram. Serial number range 4001-119000 with roughly 115,000 manufactured.
Hard to assess the value because of the possibility of a recent refinish as Otis24 suggests. If the bore is good and it locks up, it might be worth $200-$250 as a shooter. Be advised, however, that this is a black powder era firearm. I would advise against shooting it with modern smokeless powder ammunition.
Hard to assess the value because of the possibility of a recent refinish as Otis24 suggests. If the bore is good and it locks up, it might be worth $200-$250 as a shooter. Be advised, however, that this is a black powder era firearm. I would advise against shooting it with modern smokeless powder ammunition.
singleshot1891
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Looks like an attempt at parkerizing to me.
WB
WB
Welcome to the Forum. Your 38 DA would have been shipped somewhere around 1883. Looks like a very early tactical weapon to me!
I cannot tell from photos if the gun is in working condition or if it functions well, but if so, there is ABSOLUTELY no problem with standard commercial 38 S&W ammo for that revolver. There is a high probability that almost all antique 38 S&W revolvers have been shot with smokeless powder, and some have been shot a ton. Actually, from testing original black powder loadings and the smokeless ammo out there, current ammo is much lighter recoil and offers lower velocities than original. If you can reload, you can really slow this caliber down to target plinking power.
I cannot tell from photos if the gun is in working condition or if it functions well, but if so, there is ABSOLUTELY no problem with standard commercial 38 S&W ammo for that revolver. There is a high probability that almost all antique 38 S&W revolvers have been shot with smokeless powder, and some have been shot a ton. Actually, from testing original black powder loadings and the smokeless ammo out there, current ammo is much lighter recoil and offers lower velocities than original. If you can reload, you can really slow this caliber down to target plinking power.
Action issues?
I'm kinda focused on the very deep, sharp, shiny drag line on the cylinder? It "MORE than likely" has action issues. The bolt is hanging up big time!!
The double lock is wonderful when it works. Probably the best looking of the Double Action top breaks in .38 and .32 cal.
When it binds? its not really reliable. Might be a lead shaver, which isn't very healthy for the shooter on the next bench over. I've been on the receiving end of a revolver shaving lead. Wonder why the back side of your off hand is bleeding? Til you finally figure it out it's the guy next doors pistol shaving lead.
It's also not an easy fix since parts for the Model 1 & 2 are very hard to find.
Murph
I'm kinda focused on the very deep, sharp, shiny drag line on the cylinder? It "MORE than likely" has action issues. The bolt is hanging up big time!!
The double lock is wonderful when it works. Probably the best looking of the Double Action top breaks in .38 and .32 cal.
When it binds? its not really reliable. Might be a lead shaver, which isn't very healthy for the shooter on the next bench over. I've been on the receiving end of a revolver shaving lead. Wonder why the back side of your off hand is bleeding? Til you finally figure it out it's the guy next doors pistol shaving lead.
It's also not an easy fix since parts for the Model 1 & 2 are very hard to find.
Murph
Last edited:
Thanks for the information.
It is a 3 1/4 barrel. The markings on the cylinder as Murph mentioned are not deep, it appears to have just worn off the refinish as the cylinder turned and does not appear to be hanging. I have not fired the gun yet but appears to be in working condition, cylinder turns smoothly when hammer pulled, ejector comes out when opening the top break, cylinder walls look good as does the inside of the barrel (but you can tell it has been fired quite a bit). Hammer is a little stiff, but it does not appear to have been cleaned in quite a while either. As mentioned in one of the post would 200-250 be a good value on the gun?
It is a 3 1/4 barrel. The markings on the cylinder as Murph mentioned are not deep, it appears to have just worn off the refinish as the cylinder turned and does not appear to be hanging. I have not fired the gun yet but appears to be in working condition, cylinder turns smoothly when hammer pulled, ejector comes out when opening the top break, cylinder walls look good as does the inside of the barrel (but you can tell it has been fired quite a bit). Hammer is a little stiff, but it does not appear to have been cleaned in quite a while either. As mentioned in one of the post would 200-250 be a good value on the gun?
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