Identifying help

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New to the board. Thanks for the addition. I would like some help identifying my Grandfather's. 38 Special that I just received. 6" barrel, 5 screw. Fixed sights. Hand ejector.

Thanks in advance for the help.
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I can’t make out the first digit of the serial number, but it appears you have a prewar example of a standard Military and Police model, built on the K frame and leading to the Victory Model of WW II and later to the well known Model 10. I’m sure others will come along soon with more info.
🐸

PS Guy typed faster (again!)
 
Wow, you all are fantastic. Is it in good shape? This is my first revolver, ever. I'm not new to firearms, just this type. How should I clean it? Leave it alone? Any idea on its worth? (ballpark) Are there many like these still around....
 
How should I clean it? Leave it alone? Any idea on its worth? (ballpark) Are there many like these still around....
You can use Hoppe's or go to YouTube and search Ed's Red Gun Bore Cleaner which you can make from hardware store ingredients.

It appears your gun falls between Fair and Good. Values from Supica, Jim; Nahas, Richard. Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, 5th Edition (p. 565). Gun Digest Media. Kindle Edition.

Exc VG Good Fair
800 500 300 200

The .38 M&P is the most produced handgun in history so it's not rare. The upside is it is an excellent sidearm. Your gun is about 1000 units after S&W began to heat treat the cylinders. Heat treatment started in WWI at the military's insistence for the Model 1917. S&W extended the process to almost all its handguns in 1919 until after WWII. Many folks new to S&W hand ejectors often ask if they can shoot +P ammo. The answer is "yes" because they were built to shoot that pressure from the beginning. There's no need to stress it, though. Just enjoy it.
 
Welcome to the Forum! You inherited a nice .38 M&P revolver, and they are very popular here on the Forum. It definitely shows its age, and as you know it could use a little TLC. Before you do any cleaning, remove the walnut stocks (grips)...those you can clean with some Murphy's Oil Soap Wood Cleaner and a soft toothbrush. Mechanically it looks to be in VG condition, and it should be a fun shooter. The innards could be a little sticky and dirty with old grease, oil, and gunk so you might want to spray some CLP or automotive brake cleaner inside to remove those residues. You could remove the right side plate to look inside, but I suggest you watch some YouTube videos on how to do it correctly without damaging the parts. There were literally millions of M&P revolvers manufactured by S&W, so your grandfather's is neither rare or particularly valuable. However, it is a fine 100-year+ old family heirloom and should be around for a long time to come. Enjoy!
 
Welcome to the Forum! You inherited a nice .38 M&P revolver, and they are very popular here on the Forum. It definitely shows its age, and as you know it could use a little TLC. Before you do any cleaning, remove the walnut stocks (grips)...those you can clean with some Murphy's Oil Soap Wood Cleaner and a soft toothbrush. Mechanically it looks to be in VG condition, and it should be a fun shooter. The innards could be a little sticky and dirty with old grease, oil, and gunk so you might want to spray some CLP or automotive brake cleaner inside to remove those residues. You could remove the right side plate to look inside, but I suggest you watch some YouTube videos on how to do it correctly without damaging the parts. There were literally millions of M&P revolvers manufactured by S&W, so your grandfather's is neither rare or particularly valuable. However, it is a fine 100-year+ old family heirloom and should be around for a long time to come. Enjoy!
Hawg,

Thanks for the information and encouragement. I was hesitant to shoot it thinking it might come apart or be more valuable than it is. Which I am relieved that it's not. I look forward to shootin' steel with it. Thanks again for your help.

Jet
 
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