Identifying My Father's Service Revolver

Those last pictures suggest it's had a good life---and well cared for along the way. Keep up the good work!

Ralph Tremaine

Yessir. My father was a stickler for gun maintenance. He's been gone now for 23 years, but his memory lives on through his firearms. He instilled in me...you shoot it, you clean and lube immediately afterwards, or as soon as you can.
 
Does the holster have any markings? It has some features that remind me a little bit of a British WWI open-top leather shoulder holster...
 

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Yessir. My father was a stickler for gun maintenance. He's been gone now for 23 years, but his memory lives on through his firearms. He instilled in me...you shoot it, you clean and lube immediately afterwards, or as soon as you can.

Sounds like a plan!

Just don't get carried away with the "lube" part.

S&W's comments on lubrication go like this:

As to frequency, "If a revolver is used daily, it should be oiled every month." (You can extrapolate that to determine your schedule.)

"-----and this is best accomplished by removing the sideplate on the right hand side of the arm." They go on to tell you how to do that, and the term "pry" is NOWHERE to be found!

"Only a small amount of lubricant is necessary-------------." (I've found "a small amount"of lubricant amounts to ONE drop on each of the following under the sideplate: hammer stud/trigger stud (except for the rebound slide ---which gets three--inside/outside/bottom. "A little oil should be placed on the stem of the extractor rod and on the cylinder stop and cylinder rotating hand." It should be noted these quantities are mine. They also don't enumerate the other bits and pieces under the sideplate-----other than "the working parts".

The bottom line is "Only a small amount of lubricant is necessary------." We say things like oil "attracts" dirt. It doesn't attract anything, but it damn well holds on to every last spec!

Ralph Tremaine
 
M&P revolvers up to around the S99xxxx SN range had the so-called long action. Easily spotted by the hammer appearance. Then the design was changed to a shorter throw action, advertised by S&W as the “High Speed” action. Its hammer had a different visual appearance. Indeed the wood grips are of the correct style for the time period. Many shooters prefer the feel of the older long action revolvers.
 
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Speaking of long actions, my father-in law's M&P, bought new in 1920 and carried daily in the hip pocket of his overalls for 60 some odd years absolutely came alive with the addition of a Miculek spring kit set at seven pounds (the minimum he recommends).

In the event you should decide to try one, FOLLOW HIS INSTRUCTIONS!! (I , of course, needed no instructions to replace a couple of springs, and NOTHING would move when I finished!) All was well the second time around!

Ralph Tremaine
 
.

S&W's comments on lubrication go like this:

As to frequency, "If a revolver is used daily, it should be oiled every month." (You can extrapolate that to determine your schedule.)

"-----and this is best accomplished by removing the sideplate on the right hand side of the arm." They go on to tell you how to do that, and the term "pry" is NOWHERE to be found!

"Only a small amount of lubricant is necessary-------------." (I've found "a small amount"of lubricant amounts to ONE drop on each of the following under the sideplate: hammer stud/trigger stud (except for the rebound slide ---which gets three--inside/outside/bottom. "A little oil should be placed on the stem of the extractor rod and on the cylinder stop and cylinder rotating hand." It should be noted these quantities are mine. They also don't enumerate the other bits and pieces under the sideplate-----other than "the working parts".


Ralph Tremaine


I'm curious. Where did S&W write that?
 
Nice, I have its older brother, S8389xx. Lot's of holster wear on mine, not nearly as nice as yours.

MampP_6_in_S_left_zpsfvldyoao.jpg


MampP_6_in_S_right_zpsg6qbenml.jpg


6" Post War M&P
 
My only question is how can you live with your dad or be around your dad all those years and not know the history of his firearm?
 
Thanks! Its interesting that they provided more detail about care in the catalog than on the instruction sheet. Or at least on the instruction sheet that came in circa 1978 box that I have.
A portion of that sheet I posted here https://smith-wessonforum.com/142103308-post5.html
 
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Its interesting that they provided more detail about care in the catalog than on the instruction sheet.

I have a .32-20 HE that shipped in 1917 with factory pearl stocks. In the box is a small sheet of paper that describes how to care for the pearl stocks. Little details that S&W was paying attention to in those days.
 
Does the holster have any markings? It has some features that remind me a little bit of a British WWI open-top leather shoulder holster...

I'll have to look to be sure. I'll get back to you. Thanks!!!
 
My only question is how can you live with your dad or be around your dad all those years and not know the history of his firearm?

The only thing he told me was that he carried it in Korea. We never usually talked about the history of the firearm, we just enjoyed shooting it together when I was younger. Dad didn't talk much about the war. As far as shooting with him, it was always hunting....shotguns, rifles. That .38 lived in his nightstand for any intruders that may happen to come.
 
Yes, a pre-model 10. The model 10 started in about 1958. Generally the guns after WWII and before model numbers are referred to as pre-models. It could also be called a .38 Military & Police. That is what Smith & Wesson called it.
 
Yes, a pre-model 10. The model 10 started in about 1958. Generally the guns after WWII and before model numbers are referred to as pre-models. It could also be called a .38 Military & Police. That is what Smith & Wesson called it.

I was thinking of buying a speed loader for it. Would the Model 10 speed loader fit this pre model 10? Thank you so much!!
 
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