If you could improve a Dillon...........

I've been loading on different Dillon machines since the 300. Occationally something doesn't work right but it's normally from me rushing.

I load all of my .38s on my 650 and have loaded over 100,000 rounds in the 5 years I've had this press. I recently had the case feeder readjusted because I didn't watch the video. Now I know how to do it myself.

My 550 is used for all my other calibers including 7.62X56R, .44 Mag and Special, .44 Russian, .303, 45-70. It's so easy to change dies I didn't bother getting a new tool head for each caliber. If it takes a Large Primer it's loaded on the 550.

I live close, so when something happens that I can't complain I bring the part into Dillon. They have never charged for replacements and have given me man new parts including parts I didn't expect to get, all for free.

I read a recent thread about using the LEE primer tray to load your Dillon primer tubes. What an ingenius idea. I've got to give one a try. I don't want to spend $300 for their primer tube loader. Worst case I'll just keep loading 5 tubes and then load up 500 cases and then take a break.
 
I'm not a tinkerer which is why I bought a Dillon 550B in 1999. After thousands of rounds of 9mm, .40 S&W, and .30 carbine I can't think of a think I'd change on it.

Before I bought my Dillon I had several reloaders tell me you just have to start out on a single stage before you get a progressive, like it was some kind of rule or something. I'm certainly glad I didn't follow any of that advice.
 
I read a recent thread about using the LEE primer tray to load your Dillon primer tubes. What an ingenius idea. I've got to give one a try. I don't want to spend $300 for their primer tube loader. Worst case I'll just keep loading 5 tubes and then load up 500 cases and then take a break.

Could you point me to that thread please.
 
What would I like to see changed on the Dillons? Most likely nothing. They are great presses and I've been well satified with what I've owned.

However, on the 550 I'd like to see 5 stations instead of 4. This would allow the use of a powder check die. This was the reason I sold off my 550 and went to a 650.

The 650 is pretty bullet proof. The only complaint I have with it is the priming system that sends missed primers down a ski ramp. Not a biggie as there are work arounds for this.

The 1050? Leave this one alone! I've never seen anything like it in all my years of reloading. An honest 1200 rounds an hour, usually my arm gets tired first. Everything on it works in a sweet harmony.

I'm totally sold on Dillon presses. I've had quite a few yucks listening to the people that passed on Dillon and bought Hornady presses.

When I started looking at progressives I asked the various owners how many rounds an hour their presses could produce. The people that couldn't answer the question generally had answers like "I don't hurry", or "I don't count rounds per hour". If you read between the lines that means they are spending more time tinkering than reloading.
 
I had two SD B machines, last year I went for a 650. Its a great machine no doubt. I kinda jumped in deep and bought full conversions for each caliber with powder measures. It does make change overs very easy especially if you dont need to reset for a new bullet length or powder drop. I am set for 9, 38, 357 (a set for each), 40, 44, 45 auto, 223.

The only thing I would like to add is a small brake on the shell holder. The brake would give just a small amount of resistance when it indexes. Some time it will snap into place and spill some powder, I cannot adjust this out for what ever reason.

Oh, also the finished cartridge shoot should be a bit longer toward the shell plate. Seems some times one will stick a bit and wind up on the floor. I fixed it with a piece of card board and a paper clip...

Heres another idea I had for loading mill rifle brass. I dont load tons of it but enough. Right now I , tumble, then spray lube, run through the press, size, de prime. Then swage the prime pockets and check length, I dont have the Dillon trimmer (cant say Ive needed to trim anyhow) then tumble to shine. Then re spray lube and back to the press.

My thought was if we could switch out the primer anvil and make a swage to fit instead. Then with a Dillon trimmer, you could have finished brass with just going through the press, no hand work. Once through the press and its sized, deprimed, swaged and trimmed. Change the swage tool to the primer anvil, change tool head to the dies and reload.
 
I've been told that clipping a bend in the spring will stop/help the powder spillage. Here are the tips/help pages where I read that:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=52

or

http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillonfaqs.html#bench

I'm with you on this issue (forgot to mention it in my reply). I have gotten so well trained to put my finger on the shell-plate as it turns...I never get spillage now. I do this out of habit and have not ever cut the spring.

I also have a 650 and have done the same and have a quick-change for each caliber. Much easier and faster change-outs. I also have a complete primer switch-out to make than go faster...or I guess I could just get another 650!! Not!!!

Bob
 
Last edited:
I have gotten so well trained to put my finger on the shell-plate as it turns...I never get spillage now.
Yep, I do the same thing, but it does slow me down. I should be reaching for and getting a bullet ready, but I am holding the plate :)

I have been thinking of getting another primer assembly so I dont have to change it over, it is a bit of a pain to get it together and working right.

I also bought the primer filler machine, works great and dont think that I can live with out it now. It took a little while to adjust it to make it work perfect. Its fast, easy, no more pick up tubes :)

If I could find a used 1050 at the right price I might try it. They seem to be quite pricey used even if they did commercial loading and a quite beat up....
 
If I was going to change one thing on my Dillon it would be to somehow remove the lever and make it foot operated like a treadle sewing machine. That would get the lever out of the way and free up one hand.
 
I have read of a fix for the plate/spillage thing. I think that it was on Calguns.net, but I think that even that was generated from the Brian Enos site.
It seems that there is a roller bearing washer that is available through Grainger (??) along with another washer, I'm not quite sure, I think that they are also available in kit form from ebay.
It's supposed to smooth things out with no jerking.
You might try any of the above and search.
I will try to do the same thing and get back if I find something.
Good luck!
 
I thought I would post this here again on how I do die setup on a SDB. I have two that are currently setup in the "CAVE". One for large primers and the other for small. That takes that part out of the setup time.

Then as I dialed in a setup, I took measurements and recorded them on the inside of the die lid with a permanent marker, sharpie. That way I can get dialed in pretty close quickly.

SBDSetup2.jpg
 
Skip -

Your pic reminded me that I did another tweak to my SDB's.
At station three, where the small hole is drilled into the top of the seater, I drilled the hole out larger about half-way through and strapped a small flashlight with the bendable wire head to fit into that hole. It shines good light into the now powdered case allowing me to see if there is powder and about how much. Works really well!
I gotta get some pics up!
 
I have a 550b and would redesign the primer feed system. Loading up the tube takes too many steps, There should be some way to just attach a flip tray in place of that tube. Changing from large primers to small is also a real pain. Other than that I would leave it alone.

Same thing on the 650 and...if there was a way to stop feeding primers while you cycle the machine to adjust the charge weight.
Like this post I didn't see :D

One would be the way that primer system works on the XL650. If a case doesn't take a primer away, I don't want the primer system to advance. Oh, sure, I can remove the "cam" that actuates it and advance them by hand, and I have, but like the SDB, why can't the unused primer just stay there? Maybe a "cam" that can be easily folded in and out of use. No tools needed, simply fold it up and no primers advance, fold it out and away you go. That's one thing.
 
Last edited:
I take all the cases out of their slots and then use a 45-70 case to measure my powder. Since it's too large I can throw charges and the primer system is inactivated. I give it 10 throws and measure and then weight and keep going until I find my powder charge.
 
AzShooter,
What model press are you using? I ask because the 650 auto-indexes and I do not understand how using the 45-70 case would work without advancing the shell-plate.

It's early, I may just be needing that 1st cup of Joe.

Bob
 
The shell plate advances but the primer system doesn't get engaged I don't put the case in the shell plate, just hold it over the plate.You can use any large rifle case but I like the 45-70 It gives more room.
 
I've got a Square deal and it works well enough for me. I've only needed a couple of nylon(?)small parts to replace from an extremely long term storage.

...One suggestion they could do to improve things is to give personal home delivery by one of the cover babes and have her stay for the summer. You know,,make sure the parts work right and stuff.....all part of the customer satisfaction package of course...
 
Back
Top