IL/Remove Just Plate ??

[S&WCarrier]

I just disabled it on my 637. I did mine by taking the so called "Flag" part outa the gun and grinding the stud off that actually locks the hammer then reinstalled it. Now I don't have to buy the plug or worry about the remaining portion of the IL getting in the way of anything. IMO, it's the best way. Only by way of a function check, or word of mouth would anyone know it's disabled.

Here's a pic of the flag with the stud removed.

The top portion is where the stud should be. That's the part that rides in a channel of the hammer and when the key is turned to the left forces the stud into it's locking position.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

I just disabled it on my 637. I did mine by taking the so called "Flag" part outa the gun and grinding the stud off that actually locks the hammer then reinstalled it. Now I don't have to buy the plug or worry about the remaining portion of the IL getting in the way of anything. IMO, it's the best way. Only by way of a function check, or word of mouth would anyone know it's disabled.;

The top portion is where the stud should be. That's the part that rides in a channel of the hammer and when the key is turned to the left forces the stud into it's locking position.

Just hope you don't need to have it serviced by S&W, they may just send it back to you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[S&WCarrier]

Just hope you don't need to have it serviced by S&W, they may just send it back to you!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For $329.00 OTD, I'll just pick up another..


Oh, now I understand why the comment....... You are the maker of the "PLUG". Sorry friend, not trying to still your thunder, just thought it was a better way that's all.

On a side note, I'm thinking they'd send yours back just as quick, being that it's completely removed..

Cheers!

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

If you tap it, the factory won't work on it, Plus it will cut the sale price to the bone.

Why not?
Just put the lock assembly back in if you want work done.

If done correctly the tap drill size and lock cylinder size is the same.

 

[stantheman86]

I didn't "plug" this 10-14, just removed every piece of the lock. I have two other IL S&W's and I just left the lock in, hasn't caused a problem yet and I don't foresee it doing so. I plan to add another 10-14 I'll be leaving bone stock, a 64-8, and a 619 if I can ever find one, a 58 and 27 Classic.... I will just leave the IL in all of them. I don't lose any sleep over it.

Some people gripe about "the hole" just because S&W's made the old way don't have them, and it's different, and people in general dislike change.

Sure, the old S&W's didn't have a hole in the frame, but none of my older S&W's can outshoot my Dan Wesson either

I'm not worried about S&W servicing this one, I've done so much parts changing I would never send it back anyway. I don't expect anything to go wrong with it I can't fix myself. Working on new MIM S&W's is like playing with Legos, everything just drops in.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

For $329.00 OTD, I'll just pick up another..


Oh, now I understand why the comment....... You are the maker of the "PLUG". Sorry friend, not trying to still your thunder, just thought it was a better way that's all.

On a side note, I'm thinking they'd send yours back just as quick, being that it's completely removed..

Cheers!

You are wrong on your comment.

 

[Dan M]

We have had enough lock discussions now. closing this one down