I'm now powder coating

gnappi

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Way back when I started to cast my own, I tried liquid, tumble, and all sorts of wax lubes and then one day I discovered cheap TMJ bullets and stopped casting for a long, L-O-N-G time.

Then when bullet prices spiked, supplies got tight and delivery schedules went haywire a few ammo panics ago, I boiled all of the wax off of my many already cast / lubed unused cast / sized and waxed .45's, 40's and 356's (for the .357 Sig and .38 super) away and powder coated them, I'll never look back.

PC is cleaner in the bore being harder than the underlying lead bullet, I "can" use softer lead, it doesn't smoke, it's not hard to do, load data is equal to my TMJ loads, my seating die never gets filled with lube to make bullets LOA change as I load, the presses, gun exterior and my hands stay cleaner never having to touch lead bullets again.

So now all I have to focus on acquiring is powder and primers. That's at least one element of reloading I never have to deal with or compromise on the quality of what I handle and send down range.

Bullseye is a game of precision and I have no interest in splitting hairs in a match that's won by the number of X hits.. I'm in no way a target shooter so left ventricle / right ventricle at 30' +/- is way good enough for me.

When I started a few seasons ago I was trying out different PC formulations (TGIC, urethane, epoxy, and polyester) shown in the pic below.
 

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I started PC myself about a year ago. One of the guys on another forum I belong to tries to make a big deal out of how he'd never quit using lube as if to make a political statement but most everyone I shoot with is on board with P C. Very easy to do. I shake mine in the powder with the airsoft bbs and throw them in a little basket I made from 1/4" grid hardware cloth. One layer of boolits! Bake at 375 for 15 minutes and lay out to cool. After the coating is no loger sticky, rub them free of the basket and break any apart and you're done. Run them thru your sizer as usual. Put on gas checks before paint (if used). I've shot them at 2200 fps.
 
I got that color you got on the lower right. Makes for some cute boolits.
 

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I shake and bake tried many formulations to see what worked best for coverage. Some came out lumpy but they sized perfectly smooth. I settled on the dull grey/blue, brick red, cyan and the "John Deere" Green.

I now have three ovens and when the summer heat gives way to cooler days I can bake ~1200 rounds an hour, after casting them that is.

I have three Star sizers one set for the super, the 40's and .45's. I had custom dies made for the star machines that are shorter than standard dies and have no lube holes. Then I had a machinist make the plate for all three.
 

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I gave up on powdercoating cast bullets after many failed attempts. I can't get a decent coating, is the main problem.

cold winter day, low humidity

tupperwear bin with a triangle #5 logo, this type of plastic builds up static electricity during the "shake"

use quality powder coat. I like Eastwood, or a guy on the castboolits forum names "smokes"

pour cast bullets into bin, add a few tablespoons of powder.

cover and shake like hell for about 3mins.

place them on a silicone tray, bake in cheap toaster oven, 400* 20mins.

push thru a LEE sizer

U1gJe55.jpg


d1kIVns.jpg
 
I find powder coating interesting, but after 48 years of doing everything the old fashioned way I doubt I will ever change. Maybe when some degree of normal returns to the marketplace I will order out some PC cast bullets from one of the suppliers to experiment with. For now, the pleasant scent of Alox will remain a part of my range visits.

Best regards.
 
I gave up on powdercoating cast bullets after many failed attempts. I can't get a decent coating, is the main problem.

If you address hi humidity, clean dirty bullets with acetone, dumped poorly selected / suited powder, correct container to shake in there should not be an issue.

I tried to get a nice silver / lead color (I REALLY did not want exotic colors) and of all those I tried I never got one to work. Not until a seller on Ebay sent me "sampler pack" of a dozen colors and formulations did I succeed enough to know I'd never buy bullets again.

Do you still cast and have the oven? If you do visit:

Cast Boolits

Those folks will get you going.
 
I shake and bake tried many formulations to see what worked best for coverage. Some came out lumpy but they sized perfectly smooth. I settled on the dull grey/blue, brick red, cyan and the "John Deere" Green.

I now have three ovens and when the summer heat gives way to cooler days I can bake ~1200 rounds an hour, after casting them that is.

I have three Star sizers one set for the super, the 40's and .45's. I had custom dies made for the star machines that are shorter than standard dies and have no lube holes. Then I had a machinist make the plate for all three.

Well let me be the first to say....Dayum! That's quite an impressive set-up!
 
I powder coat with clear to keep the original cast bullet look. I haven't experimented with any colors yet. Also I still use conventional lube on certain gas checked bullets and ones that need multiple runs thru a sizer. Powder coat on plain based bullets is what works for me
 
the clear powder coat looks like powdered sugar before baking

i'll try to post a pic later
 
I'm amazed at how easy it is. Here's some others I've done.
For me - excess sizing affects accuracy. I've had best luck shooting 9mm bullets out of my 38's. They only take a light touch when sizing. If I PC a bullet meant for the 38, it goes through the push die with some difficulty and accuracy sucks at 50 yards. I do my accuracy testing out of a 10" TC. For short range handgun loads I guess it doesn't matter.
 

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clear and blue before baking, . . . as you can see they are well coated.

k66Li4s.jpg
 
I have never gotten into casting, so I just buy my powder coated bullets. There are quite a few suppliers out there, and just order in time to allow for that 10-15 week delivery. I've never run out of bullets yet.
 
SMSgt, you're just trying to scare the yanks away from coming down here to move... It's too late! :-)

Gads, when I moved here it was area code 305 from Miami to Orlando.
 
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