Inconsistent trigger pull

[stevemaury]

Revolver in question is a Lew Horton Model 24-3.

About 80% of the time, the single action trigger pull is much harder with a particular cylinder chamber in the firing position. It almost seems like the trigger does not want to move to the rear at all, but with extra pressure, the trigger will break.

This seems to always occur with the same cylinder chamber in the firing position, and happens whether the revolver is loaded, unloaded, or loaded with empty cases. DA pull is not affected.

I do not know where to start with this. Any suggestions?

 

[armorer951]

I would suspect a long ratchet at that chamber location. (Or perhaps a damaged, burred, or improperly cut ratchet) The ratchet for the chamber under the hammer is the one immediately to the right when looking at the back of the cylinder. Damage, if present, should be easy to see with a magnifier.

The hand is confined in the frame window, and if the ratchet(s) are not fit properly, when (after) the cylinder locks in place, the further, necessary, upward movement of the hand when the trigger is pulled during SA, can be restricted in the inadequate space provided.

Other issues could be present, including imbedded dirt/residue inside the action, or in the cylider/extractor assembly, excessive end shake, resulting in contact of the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone (or "barrel extension" as some more highly trained members call it!!!), or misalignment of the cylinder/yoke assembly in the frame. The list goes on.

 

[stevemaury]

Thanks. It does look to me like the ratchet for that hole is a little long (wide). Here are two pictures. The hole in question is the empty one.

I assume the area indicated by the arrows is where relief may be needed?

 

[armorer951]

I would simply add a caution at this point with respect to fitting ratchets (if this is indeed the problem). That is that fitting/filing ratchets is one of those conditions that begs diagnosis and resolution at the hands of someone with the proper tools, experience and training.

A well intended misdiagnosis and subsequent "repair" of this condition can result in damage to the extractor to the extent that both the extractor and consequently, the revolver, will be both unusable and unsafe.

 

[ken158]

armorer951 nailed your problem - but a pic will not really show the issue because it may be very slight and must be (fit / filed) in the proper manner (angle) to correct the issue. Any of the guys that have attended the S&W armorers school will have the proper file. IF you fool with it and file too much you may have to install an oversize hand and then file all the other ratchets to bring to spec. This is not a job for a beginner.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I agree with all of the above. You are getting good advice. You can watch the hand and ratchet interaction with the sideplate off by looking in the hand window from the back as you cycle the action.

You may want to remove the mainspring for this operation to remove stress from the hammer and trigger pivot pins while the sideplate is off.

 

[stevemaury]

Thanks, all. However if there is a bind, do the arrows in the pix correctly show the location of material to be removed?

 

[Protocall_Design]

Yes, if that is the real problem.

 

[iPac]

Thanks, all. However if there is a bind, do the arrows in the pix correctly show the location of material to be removed?

I echo armorer's warning, you should NOT touch the ratchet without having the problem diagnosed 100%, and even then an average Joe shouldn't touch it. Decide what skills or confidence you have then proceed. I would at least get the shop manual on S&W before I begin.

 

[armorer951]

That is the correct ratchet (arrow) for the empty chamber in your photo.