Info needed on this Model 10-3

[Sharpstickshurt1]

I recently picked this gun up and know very little about it. The Serial # is C519227 and is a model 10-3. The finish is different, I am not sure if it is blued or parkerized. The finish is consistent and does not appear to be refinished. The action is tight and the timing is good. How many of this model were made. I can find very little info on the forum.
Also I have shown a picture where the cylinder and the arm that holds it pull free from the frame without much difficulty, is that supposed to happen? also the sideplate does not sit flush with the frame and I am not sure why. Are these things a competent Gunsmith can correct?

 

[Sharpstickshurt1]

I recently picked this gun up and know very little about it. The Serial # is C519227 and is a model 10-3. The finish is different, I am not sure if it is blued or parkerized. The finish is consistent and does not appear to be refinished. The action is tight and the timing is good. How many of this model were made. I can find very little info on the forum.
Also I have shown a picture where the cylinder and the arm that holds it pull free from the frame without much difficulty, is that supposed to happen? also the sideplate does not sit flush with the frame and I am not sure why. Are these things a competent Gunsmith can correct?

 

[pred]

Cylinder should not do that concidering that the forward most screw is in place to hold assembly in.
I am not sure of finish, Someone will chime in and let you know!
PB

 

[dghuppert]

Looks like the forward screw is the one that should be under the grip panel. Probably too short to hold the yoke on.

 

[danski]

1. Push cylinder back in.

2. Exchange screw under right stock with flat-headed one now in place.

3. Before doing exchange of screws, with screws out, tap with a wood mallet or rubber handle of a screw driver to try and push down plate fully at right rear.

4. Tighten all the screws down.

Hopefully, that will correct the loose cylinder.

5. If after switching the front and back screws, the cylinder is now too tight or very hard in opening, then switch the forward screw with the middle screw.

 

[yugolovr]

Yeah your side plate screws are in the wrong holes. The flat top screw goes under the grip. The shorter of the round top screws goes where the flat screw is.

 

[Sharpstickshurt1]

Thats the kind of brilliant info you get on this forum. I will exchange the screws and see if that fixes it.
Thanks

 

[Sharpstickshurt1]

That did it! Now the sideplate is flush with the frame and the swapping of the screws fixed the other issue as well!

 

[photoman]

Good news Sharpstickshurt1. That's a different looking hammer. Almost looks like a 547 hammer.

 

[Sharpstickshurt1]

Originally posted by Photoman44:
Good news Sharpstickshurt1. That's a different looking hammer. Almost looks like a 547 hammer.

I agree, there are so few 10-3's that I have seen I do not have much to reference. I was under the impression these has case colored triggers and hammers but these do not appear to be?

 

[Guest]

Obviously that hammer has suffered damage, either dropped or possibly trimmed back by the original owner for whatever reason, but it's not factory, nor is it a M547 hammer since that model has an internal frame mounted firing pin (no hammer nose).
Not sure about the finish on that M10-3, from the pics it looks like a matte finish which is unusual, it does appear to be some sort of parkerizing finish, which would not be original. That model (-3 engineering change) is really hard to find, most that have surfaced are well used guns showing lots of hard carry wear.
Nice find, you will look long and hard to find another, congrats.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by Sharpstickshurt1:
I recently picked this gun up and know very little about it. The Serial # is C519227 and is a model 10-3. The finish is different, I am not sure if it is blued or parkerized. The finish is consistent and does not appear to be refinished. The action is tight and the timing is good. How many of this model were made. I can find very little info on the forum.
Also I have shown a picture where the cylinder and the arm that holds it pull free from the frame without much difficulty, is that supposed to happen? also the sideplate does not sit flush with the frame and I am not sure why. Are these things a competent Gunsmith can correct?

The sideplate screws have been replaced into the wrong holes. The finish is not right and the hammer has been shortened, either by damage or intentionally by the same idiot who does not know that the flat plate screw goes under the grip, The sideplate screws have been replaced into the wrong holes. The finish is not right and the hammer has been shortened, either by damage or intentionally by the same idiot who does not know that the flat plate screw goes under the grip, which is why the cylinder and yoke flop open easily. Pass on this one.