Sideplate refinish?

[jimmy]

I have a circa 1954 Hghway Patrolman that shows very litte use or abuse, except for an area of pitting on the sideplate. Ideally, if only the sideplate is marred, could it alone be refinished--without refinishing the rest of the gun? That is, is there anyone in the gun business who has a knowledge of replicating S&W finishes, such that he can remove the sideplate, polish the pitting to the extent practicable, and restore the finish of the sideplate to match the rest of the revolver? I have an idea that the matter is not as simple as it sounds, but figure to ask anyway just in case.

Not sure to what extent this will help, but on the attached photo you can see the area of shallow (?) pitting between the logo and the recoil shield. Also some spots in the area of the sideplate that runs below the cylinder. TIA.

 

[bigmtnman]

A picture of the gun and close up of the pitting would be helpful for our "experts" here to evaluate for any recommendations.

 

[gmborkovic]

Im still waiting to meet the guy that can match blue jobs.

 

[stansdds]

I won't say that it can't be done, but I will say that it is a lot easier to say it can be done, than to actually do it.

 

[ms]

The factory polishes with the sideplate on the gun, so the tiny scratches (grain) in the metal line up exactly in the sideplate and frame. You can't do this without polishing them together. Someone really good can come close enough that you really need to look hard to tell.

 

[rct269]

Once upon a time----------------------20+ years ago!

I needed to have a cylinder refinished to match the rest of the gun (which was as new---but 50 some odd years old.)

I called Turnbull---perhaps the best of the best---and if they're not the best, they're most certainly the most expensive!!

"Can you do this?" "Yes!"

We have a trip to Watkins Glen coming up, and Turnbull's is about 50 miles down the road---and off we go.

We arrive, and it's all downhill after that!

"Who told you we could do that?!!!!"

"Well I'm in charge of bluing, and I'm telling you we can't!!!!!!!!!!!!"

He calms down some, and goes on-------"Bluing is a living thing---it reacts to its environment. Now I can refinish that cylinder, and it'll look exactly like it did when it was new---but it won't look like the rest of the gun looks now! I could do it 50 times------altering the variables every time, and I MIGHT get a match twice. How do you like those odds?!!!!"

I allowed as how I didn't much care for the odds, and we went back to the track.

I sent the whole gun back to the factory for a refinish------and it was letter perfect! I don't know if they even do refinishes now, but if they do, it ain't likely to be letter perfect ---far from it!!

Ralph Tremaine

 

[22hipower]

If the side plate condition bothers you, and there's nothing particularly otherwise special about the gun, sell it and buy one you like. The difference in cost will likely be a lot less than having the gun refinished and you're likely to be much happier with the new gun than with a side plate with a finish that doesn't match the frame. . .which is almost certainly what you'll have if you have just the side plate done.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[daveboy]

As others have stated, it would be hard to find a reputable person to attempt that. Of course, lots of places would be happy to refinish the sideplate, but chances are slim that it would be an exact match.

I'd suggest touch-up bluing. If done right, it can make a spot like that almost disappear. Doing it right is the trick. I've done it many times and you'd have to look long and hard to detect it.

Remove the sideplate. Clean the sideplate with acetone, getting it squeaky clean. Heat the part with a hair dryer. Wet a cotton ball with the bluing solution and rub it in well. It's okay to apply it to the non-damaged area as it won't really "stick" to blued areas. It should dry fairly quickly. Keep applying it, giving it at least four or five applications, rubbing it in well. When it's completely dry, polish it with 0000 steel wool. Let it sit overnight and apply used motor oil, and wipe dry. Most gun oils have cleaners in them (as does new motor oil, but it burns off when used) and can remove newly applied cold blue.

This is not really "bluing", but it darkens the bare metal to the point where it blends in with the blued steel. It might not look perfect, but it will certainly look much better than it does now. And, it will only cost you a few bucks.

 

[delta-419]

Refinish

I agree with the above with a couple of variations: substitute 0000 steel wool with 0000 brass wool and I use Van's Instant Gun Blue formulated by C. S. Van Gorden & Son if you can still find it. 4 oz will last a lifetime. Follow the directions on the bottle. The critical issue is maintaining the integrity of the frame/side plate line as it is now. I think its better than paying $500-600 + dollars for a refinish. Stop the rust!

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

Its a 70+ year old revolver. I leave it be.

 

[gmborkovic]

Hello Jimmy, I assure you, all of us have had the problem you are experiencing. Dont loose sleep over it. Because it cant be mixed, to your satisfaction. Forget about it!

 

[ralph7]

If you refinish the sideplate with it off the gun the edges will roll over and you will lose the crisp lines between the sideplate and the frame thusly shouting out the reblue job.

 

[THE PILGRIM]

Bluing and matching- have to see it to believe it!
Repeat - bought the 686 with the K Frame Sideplate.
Couldn’t come up a L Sideplate.
Off it goes to Springfield. The Big Boys told me not to send the K Frame Sideplate.
The Mother Ship installed the proper Sideplate.
Then billed me for a ‘Refinish.’
It might have been in the same room as some buffers, not sure if any ever touched it.
Say you ain’t never seen the backside of K Frame Stainless Sideplate?

 

[bobsguns]

I have a circa 1954 Hghway Patrolman that shows very litte use or abuse, except for an area of pitting on the sideplate. Ideally, if only the sideplate is marred, could it alone be refinished--without refinishing the rest of the gun? That is, is there anyone in the gun business who has a knowledge of replicating S&W finishes, such that he can remove the sideplate, polish the pitting to the extent practicable, and restore the finish of the sideplate to match the rest of the revolver? I have an idea that the matter is not as simple as it sounds, but figure to ask anyway just in case.

Not sure to what extent this will help, but on the attached photo you can see the area of shallow (?) pitting between the logo and the recoil shield. Also some spots in the area of the sideplate that runs below the cylinder. TIA.

Yes, Turnbull Restoration can do that, along with a jazillion other things. They are just phenominal in refinishing.

 

[Dino44]

I purchased this pre-27 several years ago. When prices were peaking at $2500.00. Not just where I lived, but also on all the gun auction and sales web sites. I paid $1750.00 for it. Knowing it had a turn line, buffed/re-blued side plate, and depression in grip. It's a shame that those flaws where present because had they not been, this gun could have been museum quality. Notice the lack of shine on the side plate. This is not a lighting or shadow issue with the photo. I agree with the others that discourage, re-bluing the side plate separately. Click on the photo for a little closer look.

 

[jimmy]

These are all helpful responses. I'm inclined to reblue the sideplate myself, as daveboy suggests. I figure it can't look worse than the rust damage. Will try Van's Instant Gun Blue, per delta-419. I'd be fine with having S&W refinish the gun. But my experience is they won't touch anything made before model numbers came along and were stamped in the yoke cut. Thank you, gentlemen.

 

[22hipower]

These are all helpful responses. I'm inclined to reblue the sideplate myself, as daveboy suggests. I figure it can't look worse than the rust damage. Will try Van's Instant Gun Blue, per delta-419. I'd be fine with having S&W refinish the gun. But my experience is they won't touch anything made before model numbers came along and were stamped in the yoke cut. Thank you, gentlemen.

Come back with the "after" pictures when you're finished please.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[Jaco1234]

I suggest using a Dremel with a nylon brush to remove loose particles. Use Vans or Brownells cold blue to touch up the spot. Polishing really messes up the edges and any writing.

 

[2152hq]

Worn (off) bluing can sometimes be touched up with some of the cold blue formulas. Rounded surfaces seem to come out better at times maybe due to reflections or lack of them.

But when there is some pitting, so matter how slight, that won't go away nor be covered up with the coldblue application.
It will still be there.
Also any orig factory polishing lines (grit lines) are gone from a rusted and/or pitted area.
It's damage to the polished steel surface, plain as that.

The CBlue can sometimes settle down the look of the damage that the rust has done in removing the bluing. But it won't fix any damage to the polished surface itself.

Also be careful with ColdBlues as they can be somewhat unpredictable on some surfaces.
One will touch up well. Then the exact same stuff tried on another surface will blemish more surounding orig blue than it will add any decent color to the area you are trying to repair.

For such a small area and if I didn't intend to polish the area back down,,I would just Rust Blue the area carefully to give it color again.
Just that area, not the entire side plate. I'd use an Express Rust Blue to better control the process.
Again it will not remove any pitting, just re-color that area where applied and carded (carefully!).

You can probably tell I'm not a big fan of cold blue formulas for these types of touch-up work. Though a couple work better than others.

JMHO.

 

[stansdds]

Seeing the picture, I'd say use some touch up cold blue. It will not look perfect, but it will darken the area and make it less noticeable.