Info on Centennials? 640 vs. 640-1 & Later Models?

[TexasRaider]

Hey all,
Looking for some clarification from those who certainly know more than I do about these little hotrods.

I had one years ago, sold it around 2002 or so, haven't had one since and I haven't really kept up with them since the internal lock nonsense started. Hoping I could get some knowledge dropped on me regarding these...

I had an original 640 no dash, pretty sure it was rated even back then for +P, but was stuck with a silver front sight integral to the barrel. Then came the 640-1, which IIRC was the first to be able to fire either .38 Special or .357 Magnum. Also, if memory isn't too foggy, the 640-1 was a bigger gun with a longer frame and cylinder window so it could take the bigger magnum round. But it also had a black, pinned front sight.

I'm looking at getting back into a J-Frame Centennial, but am torn. How much bigger, longer and heaver is the 640-1 and it's later brethren than the original 640? I know some 640-1's were made without the lock, but I'm not sure at which mode number or yearl they started putting the internal lock in exclusively, the option for a 'no lock' was taken away. Anyone know for sure when that happened?

I do like the black front sight on the later models, but don't necessarily want a longer, heaver gun and since I don't intend to carry .357 Magnums, even if the weapon can take it, it doesn't necessarily make sense to carry the bigger gun. I intend to max out at some hot .38 Special +P's, so the slightly smaller weapon would serve just fine, but I haven't decided if the extra size is a deal breaker or not.

Another question, besides just Cerakoting the 640's silver front sight, what options exist to transform it into a black sight, maybe even have a small brightly colored plastic insert put in?

Lastly, anyone know of a Texas gunsmith that might be able to civilize the DA trigger pull? If my grey cells are functioning properly, I remember my original 640 had a DA pull that made the original DA pull on my '89 Sig P226 feel like an Ed Brown tuned 1911 with a lawsuit trigger...yeah, it was that bad.

Thanks all!

 

[ContinentalOp]

I'll take a stab at this.

The 640ND has a 1-7/8" barrel. The 640-1 and later models have a 2-1/8" barrel. I believe there were some variations with 3" barrels, but I think those are relatively uncommon.

The 640-1 and later models have essentially a full-lug barrel profile. Think of it like a 686 barrel scaled down to J-frame size. So there may be some holster compatibility issues if you have a 640ND holster and want to use it with a 640-1, but there shouldn't be a problem the other way around.

The J-magnum frames are dimensionally different from the non-magnum frames, but I'm not sure how that affects real world applications. I have a 642ND (non-magnum frame) and a 642-1 (J-magnum frame) and they both work well in my holster fitted for my 642-1, but as before, there may be an issue if you try it the other way around.

640-1 has no internal lock, while the 640-2 has the internal lock. As far as I know, all of the Centennial models are available without the internal lock, though local availability may vary. You might have to order one if you can't find one locally.

There's also the 640-1 PC, which has Novak-style dovetailed front and rear sights and a fluted barrel. I can't remember offhand if the barrel is a different length, but I'm pretty sure it's still 2-1/8". The PC model is also cut for moonclips.

I also prefer plain black sights. I just painted the sights on my 642s. A couple of coats of matte black Testor's paint on the front and rear sights, with a clear, hard nail polish final coat, has worked well for me.

I hope that helps.

Hopefully someone will come along and either confirm or correct my information.

 

[murphydog]

Good information above.

The 640 is listed at 22 oz., and the 640-1 at 25 oz. The lock came in with the 640-3 (still in production); the 640-2 was an NYPD contract gun that looks like a -1 but in .38 Special only.

A Wolff spring kit may make the trigger pull lighter, but of course you want to have it go bang every time too - a good gunsmith or someone here on the Forum can advise which one works best.

 

[pharmer]

I've got both (640&-1). If'n I could only keep one, it would be the .38. Joe

 

[ContinentalOp]

The lock came in with the 640-3 (still in production); the 640-2 was an NYPD contract gun that looks like a -1 but in .38 Special only.

Thanks for the correction. I guess I was thinking of the 642-1/642-2 distinction.

 

[old tanker]

My 640-1 is a police turn-in. Mid-nineties gun, black pinned front sight, traditional thumblatch, and the smoothest DA pull of any S&W revolver I own. Ignition has been 100% reliable, so if anything was done to it before I got it, it was done right.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

The cylinder length on the 640-1 (J-magnum) is about one sixteenth of an inch longer than the cylinder on the 640 (.38 Spl). Clearly the frame dimensions increased a bit to accommodate the longer cylinder. Can a human tell the difference when carrying or presenting the two different revolvers? You decide.

I notice a difference in the 640-1's quarter-inch longer barrel when I clear leather (4 o'clock from a pancake holster), but that could easily be a figment of my imagination.

With stigmas of lighter and smaller equals better permeating today's marketing strategies I'm sure somebody could make a case for one model over the other solely based on weight and dimensions. I believe a human can acclimate to any item given enough training and practice so for me the differences are moot.

 

[colt_saa]

It is a shame that you are in Texas and not Florida. I would gladly take you to the range to feel them for yourself

Personally I feel that the Centennial is the best Pocket/Purse snubby Smith and Wesson produces.

If I held the shorter and longer J-frames at arms length from you, odds are you would not see a difference in frame size. The weight differences are also small, partially caused by the difference in barrel profiles. Remember that published weights include the grips so there is variation there as well.

The slightly heavier J-magnum makes lots of sense even if you are only going to shoot +P 38s in it. The additional weight will make this 38s a bit more comfortable to shoot.

A stronger gun is a stronger gun no matter what you shoot in it. Why limit yourself if you do not need to?

There must be dozens of way to change a stainless sight to black. The first obvious choice is Sight Black. This is not durable. For teh entire firearm there is cerekote, parkerizing, the various DLC processes like the IonBond that Smith and Wesson uses for the 627s, Night Guards and the 340 cylinders.

This 627 is finished in IonBond

 

[oldiesradio1560]

I had a 640-1 in 2001, a 640-3 for the past two years. I traded the 640-3 (with the stupid lock) for a new 640-1 Pro Series at the end of November and in my opinion it's the Best of the three models for fit, finish, night sights and the action is smooth as glass. Shooting a 158gr .357 magnum FMJ can be a bit painfully but the Pro Series gives no pain and less recoil then the other 640 models. I Love it.

 

[JohnRippert]

Just a FYI.

My Airweight 442 weighs 15.6oz

My Model 36 weighs 1lb 5oz

My 640-1 weighs 1lb 7oz

All of these have wood 3 finger grips.

 

[doublesharp]

I bought these off a S&W law enforcement sales rep. His personal collection, the 4 centennials have matching serial#s and the 686 custom service 3" is a salesman's sample prototype unfired even at the factory. I carry a 640 .38sp.

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

... besides just Cerakoting the 640's silver front sight, what options exist to transform it into a black sight, maybe even have a small brightly colored plastic insert put in?...

I've seen the older no-dashes where the integral front sight was ground off, a dovetail cut, and a black or colored sight was installed. Would be a pretty easy bread-and-butter job for any qualified gunsmith.

 

[TexasRaider]

Man, I really appreciate all the info, fellas, really do!
That's why I'm comfortable asking questions like that on this board.... the knowledge reservoir is wide and it is deep.
You guys have given more than just a bit to consider....

 

[CH4]

I have a few J frames, mostly M60 CS; however, my favorite is my 640-1 Pro. The fit, finish and feel are reminiscent of vintage Smith iron and the dovetailed night sights truly set it apart from the others.

 

[sdb321]

In my opinion then 640 Pro is the best S&W makes!!!! No lock, night sights, and is stainless steel. The gunsmith I recommend is not in Texas but in Rochester In. He "knows" S&W revolvers. Denny has done work from 49 of the 50 states (to much paper work to & from Hawaii). You can find him @ the Sand Burr Gun Ranch.

 

[TexasRaider]

It is a shame that you are in Texas and not Florida.

Yes it is!
Besides the fact I've been a die hard Hurricanes fan since '87 and a Dolphins fan from about '85 to 2011 (Stephen Ross has destroyed that franchise...smh), another great reason is that it's about 20 degrees here in the Lone Star State, not to mention that ugly wind sporting big, sharp, nasty teeth.

South Florida sounds pretty darned good to me....

 

[Bill In Texas]

Howdy TexasRaider!

I've got the 640-1 and it's my every day carry. They are great carry guns IMO. If you want to make your way south and east of Austin you can try mine out at the range.

Speer GD Short Barrel 135 grain .357's aren't bad shooting out of my 640 at around 1000 FPS with the right stocks. They use low flash powder in those GD also. Just a thought if you get one.

 

[Rpg]

I use M38, M49, M40, M42 and original (not model numbered) Centennial revolvers.

I've tried the newer versions (eg M40-1, 640, 638, 642) and prefer the older versions.

I find the newer ones clunky by comparison.

357 in a j frame gets you more blast and recoil with trivial performance benefits compared to the old 38 special. Few folks who own 357 j frames ever shoot more than a few rounds of 357 ammo in them. I can't imagine a good reason to acquire a Magnum j frame.

Fingernail polish works great for coloring sights.

Every j frame I've ever tried had a rotten trigger out of the box. I have my gunsmith fix mine. I won't mess with triggers on my own.

 

[STCM(SW)]

I have had several J frames. two or three M36, M60, M49, M638 and M640-1.
The best one I have now is the M640. Best DA trigger of all of them. A police trade in.

 

[Mitch95]

It is a shame that you are in Texas and not Florida. I would gladly take you to the range to feel them for yourself

Personally I feel that the Centennial is the best Pocket/Purse snubby Smith and Wesson produces.

If I held the shorter and longer J-frames at arms length from you, odds are you would not see a difference in frame size. The weight differences are also small, partially caused by the difference in barrel profiles. Remember that published weights include the grips so there is variation there as well.

The slightly heavier J-magnum makes lots of sense even if you are only going to shoot +P 38s in it. The additional weight will make this 38s a bit more comfortable to shoot.

A stronger gun is a stronger gun no matter what you shoot in it. Why limit yourself if you do not need to?

There must be dozens of way to change a stainless sight to black. The first obvious choice is Sight Black. This is not durable. For teh entire firearm there is cerekote, parkerizing, the various DLC processes like the IonBond that Smith and Wesson uses for the 627s, Night Guards and the 340 cylinders.

This 627 is finished in IonBond

Is it possible to get a breakdown of each of these models from left to right then down a row at a time?