info request .38 Special

[Providence]

You guys are amazingly knowledgeable and helpful., so I'm back with another question.

I have a .38 special that I received from my late Father-in-law. The serial number is D44**** (do I need to give the entire serial number?) There is a "J" stamped on the inside of the grips. Can you give me information about the gun? Model? Year of manufacture?

I have shot this gun, and I enjoy it. I would like to find out more about it.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Welcome to the forum!

Looks like late '72 for DOM. It's a model 10 M&P, and obviously a .38 Special.

 

[Providence]

Thank you! Is it considered a "J" frame? I was looking for grips on the pachmayr site, and the "J" frame square butt grips didn't look like they would fit.

 

[wmhawth]

Thank you! Is it considered a "J" frame? I was looking for grips on the pachmayr site, and the "J" frame square butt grips didn't look like they would fit.

No. It's a K Frame. Square butt.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I'm sorry, I left that out. It's a K frame, so you are right, J frame grips would be too small.

 

[Yurko]

Another item not mentioned is that this is a nickel plated gun.
When cleaning it, be VERY careful with chemicals like Hoppe's #9. Wipe it off immediately if you get it on the outside of the gun.

I think personally I'd use something not as corrosive like Break-Free CLP. It cleans & lubes in one product.

 

[Pisgah]

I think it needs to be said that there is some disagreement as to whether Hoppe's #9 can harm S&W nickel finishes. But Hoppe's is great as a cleaner of powder fouling, and you will be safe using it as long as you use it propely. Don't soak the gun in it for long periods of time. Use it to scrub/wipe fouling out of the bore and chambers and the outer surface of the gun, then wipe it off. Follow up with a light oiling, and there will be no problem.

That is a very nice 40-year-old-more-or-less revolver! Were it mine, all I'd add to it would be a polished Tyler T-Grip.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

I think it needs to be said that there is some disagreement as to whether Hoppe's #9 can harm S&W nickel finishes. But Hoppe's is great as a cleaner of powder fouling, and you will be safe using it as long as you use it propely. Don't soak the gun in it for long periods of time. Use it to scrub/wipe fouling out of the bore and chambers and the outer surface of the gun, then wipe it off. Follow up with a light oiling, and there will be no problem.

That is a very nice 40-year-old-more-or-less revolver! Were it mine, all I'd add to it would be a polished Tyler T-Grip.

+1

I keep reading all the negative comments about #9 on nickel, and I have to wonder just how many are based on actual personal experince rather than on something that has been read somewhere. I use #9 on my nickel guns, both of which are quite valuable, and have never had the slightest problem. I can certainly understand not using it on a gun that has any imperfections in the nickel such as pitting or flaking of any size, but on unmarred nickel it should never be a problem.

 

[Providence]

Thanks for the commentary and discussion. I use Hoppe's #9, but I'm fairly inexperienced in all of this. And I've thought about a cleaner/lubricant, so maybe I'll try one. I also want to look at M-Pro 7.

I really enjoy shooting this gun, and I've been thinking about new grips. But I think I'd like something closer to the Pachmayr grips.

 

[VM]

I think it needs to be said that there is some disagreement as to whether Hoppe's #9 can harm S&W nickel finishes.

I do not know about any disagreements but I do not use Hoppe's on my Nickel guns because of what is said on the Hoppe's website in their FAQ's

Hoppe's 9 - Frequently Asked Questions


I know that some will call me on the {prolonged} term and how it is used but I appreciate the honesty and integrity of a company to print such a statement.

I'll stick with "Break Free" on my nickel guns

 

[Bert Man]

My 2 cents. Carried nickel j-frame as off-duty/backup weapon for several years and used #9 on it every time icleaned it. Finish remains very nice to this day. As with other posters I give credence to Hoppe's suggestions no longer use #9 on a nickel gun choosing Break Free CLP instead. A nice S&W revolver is to precious to take a chance.

 

[Providence]

I was at Walmart and I saw Break Free CLP. This one is marketed under Winchester's name, but it plainly says Break Free CLP, and it has the logo.

So I'll give it a try.

 

[Gun 4 Fun]

Birchwood Casey's Barricade (formerly Sheath) is also safe for nickel, and is an awesome rust preventative. In fact, I have never found anything else that even comes close to it for that purpose. It is an excellent powder fouling solvent as well.

 

[tom turner]

Around 1997 I bought an old-stock, NIB late-70's 6" barreled Model 27-2 (bright nickle) from an old gunshop owner who more-or-less kept a "museum" of desirable guns. I caught him in a weak moment and he sold it to me. (No, it is NOT the 27-2 pictured below).

THE BAD NEWS . . .

I shot a lot of pin matches back then, and I cleaned it religiously . . . with Hoppes #9

No, it didn't cloud the finish with the ammonia in it . . . but soon that gorgeous nickle 27-2 had two spots where the nickle was flaking on the front edge of the cylinder!

After that my pristine M27-2 was no longer pristine and I traded it off.


Lately I've picked up a like new nickle 3 1/2" barreled M27-2 . . . and also a 1949-50 era nickle M&P with a 5" barrel (the M&P became the Model 10 a few years later like you've got). I'm not even going to risk these guns with Hoppes.

S&W makes an aerosol borecleaner with NO ammonia in it. That's what I'm cleaning the M&P with. So far, I haven't had the heart to shoot that gorgeous, like new M27-2.

I want it to remain like this . . .

PS: The M&P still looks nice for a 60 year-old specimen that hasn't been shot much. I want to keep it looking this way . . . so I"m not even going to take a chance with Hoppes #9. Nope, only the S&W bore cleaner (used sparingly, followed by CLP).

 

[Providence]

Welcome to the forum!

Looks like late '72 for DOM. It's a model 10 M&P, and obviously a .38 Special.

I have one more follow-up question to the OT. Is there a way for me to find out if there is any model number in addition to Model 10 M & P? For example "Model 10-x"? I'm not sure the question even makes sense.