Inside sludge.

[poe]

I find those supermarket egg trays your dozen eggs come in are excellent for keeping parts in while disassembling handguns.
I cut them in half at the spine to make them handier.

 

[tac803]

I know it's sounds like a bad idea, but the S&W sight adjustment tool (read small screwdriver) fits the screws perfectly. It'll work in a pinch if you don't have a complete set.

 

[W.E.G.]

Use a proper screwdriver.

If you don't know what is a proper screwdriver, then leave it alone.

When you get it right, the view is worth it.

 

[K.R._Rabbit]

I made a drawing of the revolver in silhouette, then labeled each screw with a letter. I then got some old film canisters and put the letter on top of the little plastic film canister and as I removed each screw, it went into the letter labeled film canister. Easy to keep everything separate so that when I was done cleaning, everything went back together the way it came apart!
Rabbit

 

[kimber 22]

I know it's sounds like a bad idea, but the S&W sight adjustment tool (read small screwdriver) fits the screws perfectly. It'll work in a pinch if you don't have a complete set.

Sort of...

Given that Malysh has already had problems leveraging screws, and has a Magna-Tip set, I would stick with the full handled Magna-Tip for better control. My experience with the sight adjustment mini-screwdrivers that come with S&W's is that the tip is very soft and will easily bend. Plus, as I mentioned above, most of my K/N frames have different size slots on the screws - usually the one that holds the crane in place is different.

 

[Malysh]

Sort of...

Given that Malysh has already had problems leveraging screws, and has a Magna-Tip set, I would stick with the full handled Magna-Tip for better control. My experience with the sight adjustment mini-screwdrivers that come with S&W's is that the tip is very soft and will easily bend. Plus, as I mentioned above, most of my K/N frames have different size slots on the screws - usually the one that holds the crane in place is different.

I agree with this advice. Personally, I have started to get arthritis in both hands that comes and goes. I have a combination of moderate osteo and something called Palindromic rheumatoid arthritis, which means I can go months between flare ups and then have problems for weeks which suddenly go away. It also effects other joints on me.

I wouldn't consider using the small screwdrivers with tiny gripping surfaces unless I could come up with some scenario where I had to remove a side plate immediately, and I can't think of an instance where I would need to do that.

With me, it's moot anyway because I won't do this with any of my revolvers until I peel some money off and buy the Kuhnhausen book.
Historically, I've spent a lot more time with my semi autos, and I know how to break all of them down past field stripping. About 4 years ago I started to get a stronger interest in my revolvers and expanded my accumulation of them. Way back when, all we were told was that revolvers rarely need any maintenance or lube. Of course, anything mechanical needs periodic cleaning and maintenance.

 

[H Richard]

I had a little set of screwdrivers by Chapman with maybe a doz tips. It did most things I needed for years. When I got more "into" the insides of Smith's I acquired a set from Midway the full 98+ piece set which includes the dogleg slotted tip for the rebound slide removal. It makes things much easier. Of course since them I have also acquired lots of other tools to make things easier. The best thing I did was get some carpet samples, which I place on top of my work surface. 1. It cushions the handgun when you are applying pressure with a screwdriver. 2. It is a soft landing place for any parts that fall our and don't bounce off a hard top and go to ????. 3. Your removed parts don't roll around on the work top. I have used the "plush" type of carpet samples as it is smoother.

 

[Malysh]

I had a little set of screwdrivers by Chapman with maybe a doz tips. It did most things I needed for years. When I got more "into" the insides of Smith's I acquired a set from Midway the full 98+ piece set which includes the dogleg slotted tip for the rebound slide removal. It makes things much easier. Of course since them I have also acquired lots of other tools to make things easier. The best thing I did was get some carpet samples, which I place on top of my work surface. 1. It cushions the handgun when you are applying pressure with a screwdriver. 2. It is a soft landing place for any parts that fall our and don't bounce off a hard top and go to ????. 3. Your removed parts don't roll around on the work top. I have used the "plush" type of carpet samples as it is smoother.

The carpet pads are a very good idea.
Chapman makes good screwdrivers, too.

 

[Troystat]

screw tricks

In addition to the maga-tip screwdrivers one can take some blue painters tape and punch a hole in it then place it over the screw with the screw showing through the hole that way if you slip you don't scratch the area around the screw. Also put some pennatraiting oil around the edges of the screw let it soak in then tap the screw driver lightly to break any seal before you twist the screwdriver. Now if I could just learn to spell

Troy

 

[kimber 22]

With me, it's moot anyway because I won't do this with any of my revolvers until I peel some money off and buy the Kuhnhausen book.

Kuhnhausen is good, although very dry. Some of his other books have more detailed drawings and photos than the S&W one. Sweeney is also very good, and entertaining to read as well.
Gunsmithing Pistols & Revolvers - GunDigestStore.com
I refer to both of them.

H Richard brings up some good points. He mentions the one special tool that is extremely helpful with the rebound spring. (You can use a screwdriver, but you'll not enjoy that process.) Brownells carries one: World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

I think Midway offers one as well, and if you go there you can see Larry Potterfield using one to put a revolver back together. Just don't expect everything to be quite as easy as Larry makes it look...

Just stay focused on your goal - removing sludge. Once you start reading either book, you may "find" all kinds of things that "need" to be done to previously healthy revolver that just needed a little cleaning.

 

[tac803]

Sort of...

Given that Malysh has already had problems leveraging screws, and has a Magna-Tip set, I would stick with the full handled Magna-Tip for better control. My experience with the sight adjustment mini-screwdrivers that come with S&W's is that the tip is very soft and will easily bend. Plus, as I mentioned above, most of my K/N frames have different size slots on the screws - usually the one that holds the crane in place is different.

No argument there...just sayin that there's more than one way to de-fur a fox. Proper tools always make the job easier and safer, with less chance of marring screws or scratching the gun. The "in a pinch" part meant "if you absolutely, positively gotta take the sideplate off and that's all you have".

 

[Malysh]

Although I'm not the original poster I really appreciate how you gents stepped up and contributed your experiences and ideas.
Thanks.

 

[H Richard]

One thing about the Midway screwdriver's. I was using a #1 bit to remove a side plate screw that evidently hadn't been removed for many years. It was stuck. As I applied force, the tip of the bit snapped in half lengthwise. No harm done. When I called Midway to reorder a replacement I mentioned this to the clerk and was told, they are designed to do that. So that you cannot put excess force to a screw. Somehow I have difficulty with this statement, but perhaps this is correct. Anyone know if this is actually correct and desirable?

 

[V1 Rotate]

H Richard, that can't be right. A screwdriver blade would be expected to bend rather than break. My guess is improper heat treatment from a batch of Chinese made blades. You were lucky nothing was damaged and you weren't hurt. Bill S

 

[crsides]

I have understood for yrs that they were made to snap if put under too much pressure.



Charlie

 

[kimber 22]

One thing about the Midway screwdriver's. I was using a #1 bit to remove a side plate screw that evidently hadn't been removed for many years. It was stuck. As I applied force, the tip of the bit snapped in half lengthwise. No harm done. When I called Midway to reorder a replacement I mentioned this to the clerk and was told, they are designed to do that. So that you cannot put excess force to a screw. Somehow I have difficulty with this statement, but perhaps this is correct. Anyone know if this is actually correct and desirable?

I've heard/read that as well. Cheap Chinese stuff could be to blame; however, I would definitely prefer a broken bit over a stripped head that then needs to be drilled out...

 

[donaldw870]

It sounds plausible, though I don't think I'll turn my screws until the bit snaps to ensure proper torque -- not that anyone was suggesting that technique. The worst that happens with insufficient torque is a lost screw, easily enough replaced. The worst that happens with too much is a real big pain.

The topic was breaking screws loose, though, and I'll follow a previous poster's advice from now on to apply some Kroil before even trying to turn them loose.