Installing a de cocker?
- Thread starter mitchjt
- Start date
Not if you're familiar with removing and replacing the manual safety assembly, and disassembling & reassembling the frame ... and can file another part to fit a new one. 
Only takes a couple of pin punches for the removal of the FP and manual safety/decocking assembly (one small enough to fit into the ambi lever hole to depress the plunger).
It's critical not to mix up the body plunger & spring (in the body of the safety & decocker assemblies) with the ambi lever plunger & spring. In this pic, the body plunger & spring are on the left, and the ambi lever plunger and spring are on the right.
Installing the decock-only assembly requires that the end of the spring be properly inserted into the hole under the left lever, and doesn't slip out while the assembly is being pushed completely into the slide (twisting the assembly to cover the end of the spring, holding it in the hole, is handy as the assembly is fully seated).
Making sure the firing pin has been properly reinstalled and has proper freedom of movement (when the FP plunger is depressed, of course) is critical.
Here's the real rub, though ...
Typically, when you replace a manual safety or spring-loaded decock-only assembly, a new sear release lever will have to be fitted (as the lever indexes off the bottom of the safety/decocking body, and changing the body changes the tolerances). Checking for the decocking 'timing' is easy enough, now that it can be done using 3 differently numbered metal drill bits as Go/No-Go "gauges", but filing and fitting a new lever requires more familiarity and knowledge, not to mention being able to smoothly and comfortably disassemble and resassemble the frame, to the point the levers can be removed (to keep checking the lever fitting process). Probably several times during the process.
Only takes a couple of pin punches for the removal of the FP and manual safety/decocking assembly (one small enough to fit into the ambi lever hole to depress the plunger).
It's critical not to mix up the body plunger & spring (in the body of the safety & decocker assemblies) with the ambi lever plunger & spring. In this pic, the body plunger & spring are on the left, and the ambi lever plunger and spring are on the right.
Installing the decock-only assembly requires that the end of the spring be properly inserted into the hole under the left lever, and doesn't slip out while the assembly is being pushed completely into the slide (twisting the assembly to cover the end of the spring, holding it in the hole, is handy as the assembly is fully seated).
Making sure the firing pin has been properly reinstalled and has proper freedom of movement (when the FP plunger is depressed, of course) is critical.
Here's the real rub, though ...
Typically, when you replace a manual safety or spring-loaded decock-only assembly, a new sear release lever will have to be fitted (as the lever indexes off the bottom of the safety/decocking body, and changing the body changes the tolerances). Checking for the decocking 'timing' is easy enough, now that it can be done using 3 differently numbered metal drill bits as Go/No-Go "gauges", but filing and fitting a new lever requires more familiarity and knowledge, not to mention being able to smoothly and comfortably disassemble and resassemble the frame, to the point the levers can be removed (to keep checking the lever fitting process). Probably several times during the process.
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Thanks for the information. Seemed easy up until the decocking timing. The frame comes back from Cerakote the same day the spring loaded decock-only assembly arrives, next Thursday, then the fun begins. Sounds like I will have to order a new sear release lever.
Essentially, yes, it involves how far the manual safety has to be rotated in order for the sear nose to be pushed out from under the hammer's single action notches.
Presuming the manual safety assembly and firing pin are in normal, good condition, the manual safety does capture the shoulders of the FP once it's been rotated a certain amount.
The use of a dowel (pencil w/eraser, etc) isn't something taught in the armorer classes. Instead, proper inspection looking for signs of wear (damage, breakage, etc) and improper function is done.
Presuming the manual safety assembly and firing pin are in normal, good condition, the manual safety does capture the shoulders of the FP once it's been rotated a certain amount.
The use of a dowel (pencil w/eraser, etc) isn't something taught in the armorer classes. Instead, proper inspection looking for signs of wear (damage, breakage, etc) and improper function is done.
When I first buy a used TDA, after cleaning/inspecting, I load up some primer-only cases & check that they do not fire when I decock the hammer, with one chambered, before loading it with live ammo.
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cpeblue
Member
You are aware that small pieces of the primer leave the barrel when you do that ? So watch were you point it .
