Is it a timing issue?

[Redacted_553]

Ok, so, where to start. I need the knowledge of this whole crew to tell me if im crazy OCD, or if I have an issue.
I was lucky enough to find a post war 1949/1950 .38 M&P 2 inch that appears to be fired very little. It's in beautiful shape and I was planning on carrying it in my rotation. So, I did the drill when I picked it up, went through all my checks and when checking the timing I noticed just a hair of carry up, so slight I thought, given the condition - a good cleaning and some oil would fix her right up. So, that didn't work It was still not fully locked up when slow, paint drying hammer pull to the rear, not with dummy rounds, and not with spent casings. I contacted a gunsmith that does alot of work on older Smiths, and he said he'd check it out and fit a new hand, or even replace the star if needed. So I drove almost 2 hours to get to him, and he checked it out, and said it was perfectly normal. He said that there was a burr on the bolt that was hanging up and that last millimeter the it took to click in would work itself out if I shot it. He said he could stone the burr off if I wanted and fully inspect it. So I opted for him to look it over and stone the bolt.
So I go to pick it up a month later, and its still doing it. Not all the time, but enough that I'm concerned.

Here's the best way I can explain what its doing - using the slow hammer pull method, when it does it, I can see the bolt engaging in the cylinder notch, and I can't move the cylinder, so it is locking, but if I rotate the cylinder a millimeter the bolt fully engages. The notches are cleaned out and I cant identify any reason for this.
My question - is this something that will work itself out with time and shooting or did I just pick the wrong Gunsmith...or am I just crazy?
Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[BillyMagg]

Ok, so, where to start. I need the knowledge of this whole crew to tell me if im crazy OCD, or if I have an issue.
I was lucky enough to find a post war 1949/1950 .38 M&P 2 inch that appears to be fired very little. It's in beautiful shape and I was planning on carrying it in my rotation. So, I did the drill when I picked it up, went through all my checks and when checking the timing I noticed just a hair of carry up, so slight I thought, given the condition - a good cleaning and some oil would fix her right up. So, that didn't work It was still not fully locked up when slow, paint drying hammer pull to the rear, not with dummy rounds, and not with spent casings. I contacted a gunsmith that does alot of work on older Smiths, and he said he'd check it out and fit a new hand, or even replace the star if needed. So I drove almost 2 hours to get to him, and he checked it out, and said it was perfectly normal. He said that there was a burr on the bolt that was hanging up and that last millimeter the it took to click in would work itself out if I shot it. He said he could stone the burr off if I wanted and fully inspect it. So I opted for him to look it over and stone the bolt.
So I go to pick it up a month later, and its still doing it. Not all the time, but enough that I'm concerned.

Here's the best way I can explain what its doing - using the slow hammer pull method, when it does it, I can see the bolt engaging in the cylinder notch, and I can't move the cylinder, so it is locking, but if I rotate the cylinder a millimeter the bolt fully engages. The notches are cleaned out and I cant identify any reason for this.
My question - is this something that will work itself out with time and shooting or did I just pick the wrong Gunsmith...or am I just crazy?
Any help would be much appreciated!

I have been known to have a serious case of OCD, but every machine is designed to function with a certain force and speed.. you're expecting your revolver to exhibit perfect function but NOT applying enough force to the trigger, and slowing the operation down well below an optimal functioning speed... think hay bailer! typically a hay bailer is run by a PTO shaft at 540 rpm,, it will bail hay all day at that speed... but slow it down, and its going to start throwing bad bales.

Anyway, I hope you see my point here, your weapon may function at almost zero speed with almost zero momentum on the operating system, or it may not.. shoot it, a lot, and keep it clean and lubed, but don't expect it to operate outside of its design envelope! If it still has a problem?? then take it to another gunsmith, but your Smith has told you its fine, run it till it dies!

Oh! and welcome to the forum, someone else will weigh in here shortly and tell you I'm crazy! If you are firing and your gun is actually malfunctioning?? then that's a horse of a different color

 

[stansdds]

Cock the hammer slow enough and you can certainly induce a failure to fully carry up the cylinder. At one time, a technique of slowly cocking the hammer while applying pressure to the side of the cylinder with a thumb was advised as a test of proper carry up. I think there are plenty of revolvers that won't pass that sort of test, yet in actual use, will perform just fine. Does it carry up and lock correctly with a normal cocking of the hammer? Does it carry up and lock correctly in double action? If the answers to those questions is "yes", then I think you may be making a mountain out of a mole hill.

 

[H Richard]

The weight of the loaded round, and "Normal" speed of trigger pull causes the momentum to fully lock it. Ignore the situation, as the gun wears in it will most probably go away.

 

[gwpercle]

Go to the range ... load it , shoot it and don't baby it ...
Pull the trigger or cock it like you mean business .
This will test / show you if you have a problem .
A cylinder of loaded ammo and serious manhandling will peobably show that you really don't have no problem .
Don't be gentle and don't baby the trigger or hammer .
Gary