Is This Normal For S&W Revolvers...?

[SteyrAUG]

I just got my first, a older P&R 29-2. Seems to be in fantastic condition (about 98%).

However, when I try and open it, the cylinder seems to catch on something. Takes quite a bit a fumbling with the release and some serious pushing to swing the cylinder free.

Most of my other revolvers I can open one handed. Is this just the way Smiths are or does it need a trip back to the factory to be corrected?

 

[SteyrAUG]

I just got my first, a older P&R 29-2. Seems to be in fantastic condition (about 98%).

However, when I try and open it, the cylinder seems to catch on something. Takes quite a bit a fumbling with the release and some serious pushing to swing the cylinder free.

Most of my other revolvers I can open one handed. Is this just the way Smiths are or does it need a trip back to the factory to be corrected?

 

[Joe in SC]

First thing to check is the ejector rod. Open the cylinder and turn the knurled end of the rod, it probably is loose.

 

[mod57]

SteyAUG,
Welcome to the forum! I would suspect that the ejector rod has backed out some. It has left handed threads. Also could be an over tightened crane screw or the worng screw. Either way this shouldn't be hard to fix, pretty common.
regards,
Ralph

 

[scott625b]

SteyrAug:

How many S&W's do you have? Do you always open them "one handed" and snap them shut the same way?

 

[SteyrAUG]

Ok, it was a nice thought but the ejector rod seems fine. Seems like the "hang up" is to the rear of the cylinder where it meets the frame but for the life of me I can't figure out why it should be hanging up.

And this is my first Smith. I generally don't abuse my handguns by swinging them open and snapping them shut with centrifugal force.

But I sorta expected to be able to open a revolver with one hand (thumb engaging the release and fingers pushing out cylinder on opposite side).

The crazy part is sometimes it opens with little resistance (enough to be acceptable) but other times it takes actual effort. So I don't think it is a burr or something like that or it would hang up all the time.

It seems that the part that comes from the rear of the frame and pushes the cylinder rod forward (for lack of the correct technical term) sometimes just doesn't always move it forward enough.

But for the life of me I can't imagine how such a part would get worn down.

 

[diamonback68]

The next thing I would check is to see if there is any crud or build-up under the ejector star. Also, try putting a drop of oil on the locking bolt and spring at the front of the ejector rod. Also make sure there are no burrs on the front end of the ejector rod.

 

[SteyrAUG]

OK, I found part of the problem.

The little stud on the back of the cylinder that gets pushed forward was dry and really stiff. A drop of Break Free on that part now means it requires a lot less effort to open this smith.

However, it still has a small hang up. It seems the rod that comes from the back of the frame and pushed the cylinder stud forward doesn't come up exactly flush with the rear of the frame. And as a result that stud hangs on it and requires a bit of a push to clear over the frame.

You can see in the below photo how the rod isn't quite flush with the frame.

So is this something that is simply a matter of breaking in that will correct over time? Or do I need to send it to the factory for a new push rod (or whatever that part is called)?

 

[Rugskipper]

I suggest a good disassembly and cleaning. Might be a little crud buildup in the cylinder release mechanism. (Happened to me.)

 

[prefer_wheelguns]

+1 on the de-crud advice.

In my experience, the usual culprit is a too-short cylinder center pin. This manifests itself as difficulty opening at the muzzle end of the ejector rod.

Since that's not the case here, and your photo blurrily

shows that the bolt is not coming forward far enough, a strip 'n scrub would seem the logical next step.

If that doesn't fix it, I'd just send it off to the factory. S&W's customer service is, in my admittedly limited experience with them, first rate.

 

[bk43]

Welcome to the forum.

DON'T try to clean up the insides....yet. There is a technique for removing the side plate without dinging it up. You need to learn that and have a schematic of the works in hand for reference just in case. It's not rocket science but you need some basic stuff before you go in there. "The S&W Revolver A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a popular reference. Seems like there's a CD too but since I have CRS(Can't Remember S&*t) I'm not sure.

Bob

 

[SteyrAUG]

Well I don't want to screw up an otherwise fine firearm. I think I'll just send it in for service.

 

[rbert0005]

You could try flushing it out with gun scrubber or brake cleaner or the like. Without taking it apart.

Flush it out well and blow it out and then get some oil in there.

Bob

 

[SteyrAUG]

Originally posted by rbert0005:
You could try flushing it out with gun scrubber or brake cleaner or the like. Without taking it apart.

Flush it out well and blow it out and then get some oil in there.

Bob

I would never dream of going anywhere near that fine blue finish with some caustic crap like Gunscrubber. I know you didn't mean anything by the suggestion but I've seen that vile liquid screw up more than a few guns (thankfully none of mine).

But I did follow the spirit of your advice. I used some WD-40 (which I normally don't consider a gun cleaning supply) to flush out the internals a bit and it did seem to improve things further. I then added some more break free and there is still a hint of a hangup but nothing like I was dealing with earlier.

At this point I'm gonna take Wayne's advice and see if things improve with use. If it continues to be problematic or worsens I'll send it in.

Thanks guys, you've been a big help.

 

[growr]

By all means let S&W take care of it. They are incredible with Customer Service. Make sure that you ask them to make sure that it is up to S&W factory spec's before returning it to you. All aspects of your gun WILL be checked. You will NOT regret it! Call them for a call tag tomorrow...
Randy

 

[TNDave]

I would guess it is just a crud problem. If you have the expertise to take the side plate off and really clean a lube the inside that would be good. I wouldn't try it if I didn't already know how. There has to be someone locally who can do it. I would do that before I sent it to Smith. I have seen old guns seized up tight from old dried oil inside them. Haven't seen you since ARFCOM.

 

[toroflow1]

I agree with TNDave, get that thing apart for a good cleaning. Sending it to S&W may be OK if you've got a bottomless wallet to pay the shipping both ways!!

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by SteyrAUG:
I just got my first, a older P&R 29-2. Seems to be in fantastic condition (about 98%).

However, when I try and open it, the cylinder seems to catch on something. Takes quite a bit a fumbling with the release and some serious pushing to swing the cylinder free.

Most of my other revolvers I can open one handed. Is this just the way Smiths are or does it need a trip back to the factory to be corrected?

Check ejector rod. Also, some S&Ws came from the factory with a tight fitting yoke screw and it could be that. Beyond that, you should have the factory look at it as you don't want to let anyone mess up your gun.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by SteyrAUG:

Originally posted by rbert0005:
You could try flushing it out with gun scrubber or brake cleaner or the like. Without taking it apart.

Flush it out well and blow it out and then get some oil in there.

Bob

But I did follow the spirit of your advice. I used some WD-40 (which I normally don't consider a gun cleaning supply) to flush out the internals a bit and it did seem to improve things further.

I'm sorry to tell you this, but WD-40 is not, despite what it may say on the can, to be used on guns. It gums up so much that LE agencies had warnings about it in the late 70s or 80s. If you use WD-40, you must degrease and get it all out and lube with a proper gun oil, such as Break Free CLP.

 

[Drail]

When you press forward on the cylinder release with the cylinder open as in your photo does that rod come all the way forward flush with the breechface? That's what opens the cylinder. When at rest as in your photo it probably won't be all the way forward. If it won't come out flush when you push the release forward, check to see that the release is screwed all the way down.(The part that looks like a screw on the release is actually a nut) If it doesn't release forward fully you'll need to go inside and find out why. Something (crud) is holding it back. The entire gun could probably use a good strip and clean.