Hood scuffing is a normal sign of wear, but it is made worse initially by the slide having a sharp, machined edge rubbing against the barrel hood.
That sharp edge is one of those surfaces that will slowly "soften" with cycling, actually reducing the rate of wear to almost nothing. The greatest wear will occur in the first few hundred slide cycles, especially firing but also hand cycling. Reliability is actually enhanced when that surface has less friction, and the gun will both feel and be smoother to cycle. Lock up will not be adversely effected.
I am a heretic. Before I shoot a new gun that I have thoroughly checked for mechanical reliability, I soften all the sharp edges that will eventually be rounded off anyway. This increases reliability and decreases initial wear.
I use 800 grit wet/dry sand paper, sometimes wrapped around an appropriately shaped object to get at corners and radiuses, on all metal mating surfaces. Slide rails, slide grooves, the center rear slide "bar" that rides over the next round in the mag, barrel and slide lock up surfaces, etc.
I bought a new ParaOrdnance .45 years ago before I started "melting" these surfaces. I fired one round and the second jammed going into the chamber so hard neither I nor the shop I bought it from could move the slide. The shop sent it back to Para with the round stuck in the chamber.
When the factory returned the gun they explained that the barrel hood locking lugs had cut into the slide cut outs in front of the chamber. They chamfered all the sharp mating edges and the gun ran fine after that. Lesson learned.
CNC machining leaves sharp edges. Custom gun makers always soften these edges (except on certain fire control parts, like a sear), but OEM factory will not take the extra time ($$$) to do this. The gun will function fine without such work, but it is part of a natural break-in process you can accelerate if you choose.