Issues with 2 Model 64-6s

ElectroMotive

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He folks, I am having a puzzling issue with RB 64-6s that I purchased to mimic a pair of earlier 64-3s carried by a Dallas PD detective I admired.

So they came with the blackened MIM trigger and hammer. I purchased a pair of stainless combat triggers (.40 smooth) to replace the present triggers. Before buying them, I checked all measurements to compare size, shape, and hole position. I installed the hand and spring that came in the revolvers onto the stainless trigger.

Now when I try to shoot, the trigger pull is stupid light. The cylinder turns completely. However the hammer doesnt go back all the way. The obvious fix is to return both guns to the trigger they came with.

The only difference, and I am sorry I dont have a pic, is the angle the hand sits at rest when the triggers are off the gun. The factory hand sits further back when on the stainless trigger.

I think the hand and hand spring are installed correctly on the stainless trigger. It seems to be installed the same way I have installed others in the past, and how my 15-3, 14-3, 27-2, 640-1, etc are installed.

Could the triggers, which were sold as post-1990 combat triggers, actually be older models? If they are, can I put an older hand (forgive me, I dont know the proper terminology) in its place? Would I be better off securing an oversized hand and fitting it?
 
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Internally, the 64-6 had many changes from previous dash models which according to the SCSW include different frame design, elimination of cylinder stop stud, MIM hammer with floating firing pin and change of internal lock work.
 
Frankly, I think you're out of luck with your plan. You'd be better off trying to trade for a pair of older guns.
I think this might illustrate that "research first, then buy" is a good rule of thumb when looking to find a particular model.
 
Yeah, I'm not ditching them because I wont to eventually put the Apex Evolution Hammer Kit in them. Said kits require a K/L/N frame with the frame mounted firing pin.
 
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