Ive got a hitch in my 66-8 trigger thats driving me mad. SOLVED!

It must still be contacting somewhere on the hammer. The good news is a little fresh lube on the backside of hammer and the little hitch feels virtually eliminated for a good while. With all the polishing its buttery smooth. I simply dont see any marring from rubbing currently

I think I might just call it good enough. Its much better than before.

Might still throw some trigger shims at it down the road with the next order from midway or the like though.
 
Send it back to Smith and Wesson. They will fix it. I bought a new Model 617 that had two charging holes out of time. The trigger would catch like that. S&W replaced the extractor because two of the ratchets were causing carry up issues. It is one of my favorite shooters now.

The trigger on my Model 66-8 is fantastic. I have shot thousands of rounds through it and love the thing. The trigger on my twenty year old Model 686+-6 is a hair better or smoother. The 66 is from 2020.
 
I dove back into this the other night

There is one part of the frame that the trigger rubs and I hit that with some sand paper and got the marks gone. Smoothed it out

Helped a little bit still the little hitch would present itself every now and again.

I pulled it all down again later and popped out the cylinder stop to check for any irregular wear. Notta

Reinstalled but was more conscious about the cylinder stop spring and pushed it square with a little screw driver

The hitch now has now practically disappeared. I have to wonder if what Im feeling is mostly the spring binding here and there. Or whats the chances I have a oversprung spring?

I thought I had replaced it at one point but after looking at some receipts Im not sure I did
 
I am not a gunsmith, something you might try, I purchased a new 617, bad catch in the center of the double action, pulled the side plate, worked on it for hours, took a small piece of wet dry 600 grit sandpaper, placed it between the hammer & trigger sear, no more catch in the trigger pull, I did not know how to fix it, called Smith, they emailed me a return shipping label, took it to FedEx, got it back in 5 weeks, smooth like my other 5 Smith revolvers, no charge, wished I knew what they done to it, I think they replaced the hammer sear with one just a little longer, good luck, Clifford..
 
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As suggested above, the red circle indicates a possible point of interference causing the hitch.

The picture shows a slightly older revolver.

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Boy you called this. I think since it was slightly differently I didn't quite see it.

It's 100% gone. The trigger is pretty butter smooth thanks to all the extra polishing everywhere but the problem

I stripped it down again tonight and with the mainspring removed and adding forward tension to the hammer while working the trigger I kept hearing a slight pop but it wasn't from the cylinder stop

Upong really close examination with the tension added I could watch the DA fly in the hammer slightly pop backwards while it engaged the trigger

I hit the fly with some polishing agent on a dremel and also stoned the hammer in another that comes has to do with the double action engagement

Reinstalled and the hitch is FINALLY gone.

Boy talk about a guessing game. I looked it over for irregular wear and didn't notice anything weird. It wasn't until seeing it sorta pop when working the trigger with tension added did I finally see it
 

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Great follow up! Did you end up removing the shims??

I do currently

May try putting a few back in to see how it feels later as this one definitely has way more side to side play in the slot than my others

I think I noticed the most improvement with the shims as it helped keep it more consistent with the fly now that I think about it

Really stumped me. But I'm glad I kept at it
 
Also solved

First of All, Thanks Everyone for all your valuable contributions on this topic and especially to this forum.

I also had this trigger hitch on my 2.75" 66-8 that I got back in 2022. I thought it would break-in after 2k rounds, but it didn't go away.

The hitch on mine was only on the DA. The SA was fine.
To make a long story short, the culprit is the trigger sear when it contacts the DA sear on the hammer and starts to push it up.

The top of the trigger sear has a corner that first contacts the hammer DA sear, this small corner is what's causing the hitch.
I was able to smooth out this corner by hand with a small cutting disc that was about 500 grit, and now the hitch is GONE!

Important - the very end of the trigger sear that sits on the hammer "notch sear" for "single action" was not touched at all and is highly recommended by others also to not be altered in any way or form.

I can't believe it took me 2 years to get this stupid trigger hitch out.

Again, Thanks All and stay Safe
 
I do currently

May try putting a few back in to see how it feels later as this one definitely has way more side to side play in the slot than my others

I think I noticed the most improvement with the shims as it helped keep it more consistent with the fly now that I think about it

Really stumped me. But I'm glad I kept at it

Its been two months so how many rounds down range?

Pictures of Target?
 
Does the cylinder drop in place just before the target and hand stop moving?
 
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