Issues with my 66-8 2.75"

southpaw187

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Hi folks, I just want to vent a little frustration regarding my 66-8 2.75". The short story is I am not overly impressed with this firearm. On paper and in pictures this gun is awesome, but in practice I have been having issues. I have had the following issues with the gun (Note that I bought this gun new from my LGS. And to date I have put at least 600 rounds of 38sp and at least 500 rounds of 357 mag, of different weights and manufacture):

1. Throat Improperly Cut - This issue was discussed in another thread but I will recap it here. I took it to the range after purchasing it and experienced tremendous amount of shrapnel being thrown back in my face, plus copper was being shaved off at the top of the forcing cone and deposited between the top of the cone and the top strap, causing the cylinder bind and lock up the gun. I took this to my gunsmith, the master Frank Glenn, and he identified the problem as a barrel throat that was not properly cut (it was too shallow). He identified this with a plug gauge (a go/no-go gauge) from Brownells. he used a reamer to open up the throat into spec. And this solved the problem as far as I can tell. Although on two instances since then I have taken bits and pieces to the face and arms.

2. Fouling collects on the Yoke causing binding - This is my latest issue that is driving me nuts. On two occasions now I have had this gun collect so much fouling along the yoke where it runs through the cylinder, that the cylinder becomes almost cemented in place. This causes an extremely increased trigger pull weight if the cylinder will spin at all. This is happening with 158gr LSWC 38special ammo. The last time this happened, I cleaned the gun thoroughly. Once clean, the cylinder spun freely. But the next time at the range, after about 60 rounds, there was so much fouling again that the cylinder is jammed up. Before you blame the ammo, note that I have shot large quantities of this ammo through 3 other S&Ws (315NG, K38, and a M28) and NONE of these are having the same problem. So I am blaming the construction of the gun and not the ammo.

3. Screws backing out - This isn't a huge deal but worth mentioning. My strain screw backed out on me during use to where I couldn't pop a primer to save my life. I'm glad I had a screw driver on hand to access the screw. My thumb latch screw backed out and almost fell out. I can accept that this may have occurred due to the recoil of the 357 ammo, but i still think it's lame. But I suppose loctite or vigilance could fix these issues.

4. Light strikes - Even with my strain screw all the way in, I am getting more light strikes than I think I should be experiencing. Not sure if the ammo is to blame or the gun, but with an 11.5lb pull I should be popping these primers.

I do not consider myself picky or a person who likes to complain; in fact I consider myself realistic in my expectations of firearms. But all of these issues together has me losing faith in this gun for EDC and as a consistent range companion. I am going to call smith about the fouling issue; hopefully they can make it right. But if I can't find the confidence in this gun that I am looking for, I will sell it for a song. I just want a S&W carry gun that runs without being squeaky clean and gobbles up ammo without crapping back in my face or light striking (Is a 686 in my future?). I hope that is not too much to ask. I will break down the gun Monday to clean it and take pictures of the fouling on the yoke, etc, and any other pictures folks might want to see. Thanks for listening to a frustrated wheel gunner! Southpaw
 
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I know it's frustrating, but don't suffer in silence. Email you problems to S&W customer service. They'll email you a shipping label to return the firearm (at their expense) for warranty repair.

I doubt they'll do anything about loosening screws (you just need to check them before/after each shooting session).

I have a 4 1/4" 66-8 that has the same config "gas shield". Maybe S&W has a fix for the debris buildup but I doubt it. I've got over 3,000 rnd thru mine and have never dissasembled the cyl/yoke for cleaning. I just put a drop or two of clp on that area before shooting and if it starts getting a bit balky.

They should be able to fix the other problems.

FWIW,

Paul
 
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I know it's frustrating, but don't suffer in silence. Email you problems to S&W customer service. They'll email you a shipping label to return the firearm (at their expense) for warranty repair.

I doubt they'll do anything about loosening screws (you just need to check them before/after each shooting session).

I have a 4 1/4" 66-8 that has the same config "gas shield". Maybe S&W can fix the debris buildup but I doubt it. I've got over 3,000 rnd thru mine and have never dissasembled the cyl/yoke for cleaning. I just put a drop or two of clp on that area before shooting and if it starts getting a bit balky.

They should be able to fix the other problems.

FWIW,

Paul



Thanks Paul. Do you shoot lead or just jacketed bullets? If mine only needed a drip or two of oil that would be ideal!


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Southpaw, it seems like if it wasn't for bad luck you wouldn't have any luck at all. I feel for you. It must be very discouraging to buy a new revolver and have all those bad things happen. We can only hope S&W will take care of you. Keep us updated.
 
Both. If you are shooting lead, have you tried any of the various "coated" bullets. Quite a bit less smoke and fouling.

Paul
 
Both. If you are shooting lead, have you tried any of the various "coated" bullets. Quite a bit less smoke and fouling.

Paul

That might mitigate OP's problem some, but dammit, S&W revolvers have been shooting lead bullets since before the Civil War. If a design tweak is necessary, they need to keep the ability to shoot lead bullets. I have a 66 2-1/2" that I really like. I may be a customer for one of the new ones some day, but not until this issue goes away.
 
I experienced some painful blowback shooting some 158 grain .357s. I forget the brand. The box is in my car. My left ear and cheek still hurts. I have had no issues with the 110 and 125 grain 357s. No issues with various 38+P in 125, 130, 159. FMJ, LSWC, and SJHP. These are 7 and 10 yards double action groups. I am loving these grips. I use CLP and have had no binding issues.
 

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First, lead SWC ammunition today is not at all common, in fact I don't believe I've seen any lead SWC commercial ammunition in at least 15 years. This leads me to believe that you are building your own ammunition. As a reloader I have no problem at all with your doing this but you may be blaming some factors created by your choice of powder and method of priming your cases on your model 66.

Btw I had about 500 rounds of 38 special with poorly seated primers due to my using a hand primer that was basically worn out. So I have first hand experience with what happens with poorly seated primers. Good new is they will go off if you hit them a second time but by golly you will get a real education on whether you are flinching while working through 500 rounds of ammo with poorly seated primers.

Some powders also shoot rather dirty. My experience with CFE223 in my AR's is that it will leave the receiver saturated with a gummy black mess after only 50 or 60 rounds while load built using Varget shoot much cleaner. I suspect the difference is due to whatever chemicals are used to reduce copper fouling so CFE pistol is probably similar in terms of fouling. BTW, that copper fouling eliminator is actually more than ad hype, it actually does reduce copper fouling in a barrel. Point being is that Powder Choice could be a factor in the fouling related issues you are dealing with.

Finally I've been pelted often enough at shorter indoor ranges that I won't shoot 357 Magnums at a range shorter than 75 feet. I had one day when I felt I might have problems with my model 620 until I felt a chink of debris hit me in the knee. Since the lanes at this range feature a bench a bit below chest high the ONLY path for something to hit my knee was from the backstop of the 50 foot range I was shooting at.

Finally, you have a warranty on your new pistol. I would suggest that to take advantage of that and call S&W Customer Service.
 
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Issues with my 66-8 2.75"

First, lead SWC ammunition today is not at all common, in fact I don't believe I've seen any lead SWC commercial ammunition in at least 15 years. This leads me to believe that you are building your own ammunition. As a reloader I have no problem at all with your doing this but you may be blaming some factors created by your choice of powder and method of priming your cases on your model 66.

Btw I had about 500 rounds of 38 special with poorly seated primers due to my using a hand primer that was basically worn out. So I have first hand experience with what happens with poorly seated primers. Good new is they will go off if you hit them a second time but by golly you will get a real education on whether you are flinching while working through 500 rounds of ammo with poorly seated primers.

Some powders also shoot rather dirty. My experience with CFE223 in my AR's is that it will leave the receiver saturated with a gummy black mess after only 50 or 60 rounds while load built using Varget shoot much cleaner. I suspect the difference is due to whatever chemicals are used to reduce copper fouling so CFE pistol is probably similar in terms of fouling. BTW, that copper fouling eliminator is actually more than ad hype, it actually does reduce copper fouling in a barrel. Point being is that Powder Choice could be a factor in the fouling related issues you are dealing with.

Finally I've been pelted often enough at shorter indoor ranges that I won't shoot 357 Magnums at a range shorter than 75 feet. I had one day when I felt I might have problems with my model 620 until I felt a chink of debris hit me in the knee. Since the lanes at this range feature a bench a bit below chest high the ONLY path for something to hit my knee was from the backstop of the 50 yard range I was shooting at.

Finally, you have a warranty on your new pistol. I would suggest that to take advantage of that and call S&W Customer Service.



Your belief is not correct. I am not loading my own ammo. I bought new factory manufactured ammo from freedom munitions. Here is the link. 38 SPL 158 gr SWC Lead Cast New | Freedom Munitions i am not sure what powder they use but this ammo functioned fine in my other revolvers and did not bind up my cylinder on any of them except on the 66-8. all primers were properly seated and yes some went off on second strike however some were not set off with 4 strikes and by then i gave up. Plus this was not the only brand of ammo i had primer problems with, winchester white box and S&B were problematic as well.

When this cylinder binding due to fouling happened the first time it appeared to be not only powder fouling but lead deposits on the yoke barrel effecting the free movement of my cylinder.

My range is 75 feet and i would be surprised if what i felt was ricochet. The debris flying at me came from the revolver i believe.

And as i said before i will contact s&w for warranty, but that doesn't change my initial impression of, or frustration with, my particular sample.


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Went out and grabbed my offending ammo. It is .357 150 grain SFHP PMC Gold Starfire.

Southpaw, that does really suck. It is about impossible to find any 357 158 grain self defense ammo around these parts. Tons of 38 special. All I shoot in my other 66s are the +ps.

I suspect the issues are powder, pressure related.
 
Tomorrow mourning get on the phone with a S&W customer rep and spell out your problems. Most likely they're going to tell you we're sending a prepaid shipping label for a trip to the mother ship. It' is Mother's day after all!
 
As to screws backing out, take them out and degrease the screws and holes.
Get a tube of PURPLE loc-tite, this is a LOW strength thread locker, it will not stop easy removal but will control screws backing out under recoil.
I have used it for a long time to prevent this type of problem on various things including firearms, it has never caused any future problems, just help solve them.
 
As to screws backing out, take them out and degrease the screws and holes.
Get a tube of PURPLE loc-tite, this is a LOW strength thread locker, it will not stop easy removal but will control screws backing out under recoil.
I have used it for a long time to prevent this type of problem on various things including firearms, it has never caused any future problems, just help solve them.



I will follow this recommendation, thank you sir.


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Tomorrow mourning get on the phone with a S&W customer rep and spell out your problems. Most likely they're going to tell you we're sending a prepaid shipping label for a trip to the mother ship. It' is Mother's day after all!



I wrote a detailed email to CS today and will report back to the thread as to what happens next


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Groo here
You may need an 11 Degree forcing cone cut in your barrel.
This will allow the bullet to go deeper into the barrel before
hitting the resistance of the rifling and causing the bullet to
swell from being compressed at the BC gap.
The Keith type SWC will show this faster due to the forward driving band
not on the CB shaped like factory HP rounds.
 
In under 48 hours S&W responded to my email with a return shipping label, i will get it out to them tomorrow and keep the thread updated.


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Quick update with my first experience (FINALLY) to give the new 66 snub a workout. I didn't have long before the rain came through central Indiana today, and was cautious to run any 357 through it until I was satisfied with the results from 38 special. Not a single hiccup to report. The Wilson Combat Spring Kit performed flawlessly, not one light strike in DA to report. The only thing I noticed when I got home to give it the first thorough bath was that the strain screw backed out on me a bit. I was kind of expecting this after doing the spring kit upgrade, but didn't want to Loctite it until I was sure there would be no problems in DA. I put a dab of blue on the threads, so I shouldn't have this problem again based on doing this with previous Smiths. I should have put up some paper targets to check accuracy, but I was hitting small steel plates at around 30 yards in DA with relative ease, so I'm pretty pleased on this front at the moment. Otherwise, no binding, no problems opening up the cylinder for reloads, no excessive fouling with WWB ammo or problems igniting the primers. Just lots of smiles!

I experienced no shavings or blowback with 38 (and don't recall that anyone else has with 38 either), so on the next trip I'll be ready to try some 357. Honestly, so far it's running like a top.
 
Quick update with my first experience (FINALLY) to give the new 66 snub a workout. I didn't have long before the rain came through central Indiana today, and was cautious to run any 357 through it until I was satisfied with the results from 38 special. Not a single hiccup to report. The Wilson Combat Spring Kit performed flawlessly, not one light strike in DA to report. The only thing I noticed when I got home to give it the first thorough bath was that the strain screw backed out on me a bit. I was kind of expecting this after doing the spring kit upgrade, but didn't want to Loctite it until I was sure there would be no problems in DA. I put a dab of blue on the threads, so I shouldn't have this problem again based on doing this with previous Smiths. I should have put up some paper targets to check accuracy, but I was hitting small steel plates at around 30 yards in DA with relative ease, so I'm pretty pleased on this front at the moment. Otherwise, no binding, no problems opening up the cylinder for reloads, no excessive fouling with WWB ammo or problems igniting the primers. Just lots of smiles!

I experienced no shavings or blowback with 38 (and don't recall that anyone else has with 38 either), so on the next trip I'll be ready to try some 357. Honestly, so far it's running like a top.



Sounds like a great day of smiles at the range! Run some boomers through that puppy and let us know if she gobbles 'em up! Sounds like you got yourself a nice one there. Glad to hear it.


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