J frame cylinders

hdguy

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Not sure if this is exactly the right place to post. I'm just guessing. I need to know if, when you order a new cylinder, it is bare or if it includes the extractor etc. I didn't see a seperate listing for an extractor/ejector in the parts list and the list online doesn't have pictures. Thanks
 
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You will not be able to buy a cylinder or extractor from the factory. They did sell them years ago, but not at this time.
 
Too bad. Is this so that any repairs or replacements need to be done by them?
 
hdGuy,

I would venture to say that the main reason the Factory will not sell some parts to the public is because they require fitting.........very precise fitting that the VAST MAJORITY of gun owners do not have the skills, know-how or tools to do. I am not saying that you don't......I personally don't know your particular situation, but I would assume the Factory would not want the liability of sending out parts that would require such precise care. I'm sure their legal department put the brakes on that years ago. Drop in parts ( for the most ) are still able to be ordered as far as I know,currently.

I just fit a new one to an old pre M36 and I was quite successful, but I inherited a huge box of new-old-stock parts when my Dad passed away in March. I have also been working on Smiths since 1979 and have all the necessary tools, supplies and the skills. Again, not saying you don't but their legal Dept. does not know either.
 
You can not only buy Smith cylinders from the factory you can buy barrels and you can buy both from Brownell's. It just depends on whether or not the model you want is still available.

I bought and installed this SS cylinder in my L frame 296 to replace the TI cylinder.
orig.jpg


Ruger will not sell barrels or cylinders even to gunsmiths.
 
Just how much "precise" hand fitting needs to be done to change a cylinder. My only experience with swapping out cylinders has been with single actions. I realize I'm comparing apples and chevy's but these are mass produced guns. How much of an ordeal is it to change cylinders?
 
Just how much "precise" hand fitting needs to be done to change a cylinder. My only experience with swapping out cylinders has been with single actions. I realize I'm comparing apples and chevy's but these are mass produced guns. How much of an ordeal is it to change cylinders?

With the newer style, it doesn't take quite as much as the early style (easily identified by tips of the extractor are wide and eliptical vs flat and narrow. It still requires fitting a new hand (usually) and possible adjusting individual ratchet teeth for proper carry-up on each chamber. Overall headspace will be too large with most brand new cylinders also. With some practice, the new style goes pretty quick. Get Jerry Kuhnhausen's book.
 
In any event it doesn't sound like a job suited to do "in the field". Drop the new hand into a pile of forest litter and you'll never see it again.
 
In any event it doesn't sound like a job suited to do "in the field". Drop the new hand into a pile of forest litter and you'll never see it again.

I just realized I didn't answer your 1st question, when you buy a new cylinder, they come as an assembly with extractor star and springs attached but not the ejector rod.

It sounds like you might want to change cylinders in the field. If that's the case the way the factory does it is to fit two cylinders to the same hand so it doesn't need changing when you switch the two cylinders back and forth. But they also supply the 2nd cylinder with it's own yoke. So by removing one screw, the yoke retention screw, they can be swapped easily in the field. Complete cylinders with yokes attached can be had from Gunbroker and used model 36 cylinders are especially plentiful and cheap compared to new ones. Do a search for parts kit.
 
Well I hope I'm not taking this discussion beyond the scope of local knowlege but, Just how interchangable are cylinders and yokes. Are the 357 and .38 cylinders and yokes basically the same. I guess that a while back Smith changed the frames on their J's to the magnum frame (I'm just putting together bits and pieces here so please correct me if I'm wrong). I have a .357 J frame could a .38 cylinder and yoke be fitted?
 
Well I hope I'm not taking this discussion beyond the scope of local knowlege but, Just how interchangable are cylinders and yokes. Are the 357 and .38 cylinders and yokes basically the same. I guess that a while back Smith changed the frames on their J's to the magnum frame (I'm just putting together bits and pieces here so please correct me if I'm wrong). I have a .357 J frame could a .38 cylinder and yoke be fitted?


This is your thread, you can take it antwhere you want.

Basically yes, 357 and 38 cylinders and yokes that are made for the same size frame will interchange with the understanding that minor fitting is a probbable requirement. You're right about the magnum J frame. Yes a 38 cyl & yoke produced for a magnum J size frame could be fitted. All J frames are now the mag J size so any 38 cyl & yoke currently being produced would be of the correct length.

I'm sure you know that 38s can be fired in 357 cylinders with no ill effect. Cleaning the chambers is recommended before using 357s again because they maybe difficult to chamber all the way due to residue from firing the shorter 38 cartridge cases.

What do you have in mind may I ask?
 
I'm trying to determine if it's realistic to have a second cylinder/crane assembly cut to chamber 9mm. If it were fitted to the frame would the two assemblies be interchangable. I can have my cylinder cut but I don't want to give up the 38/357 which is my primary round. Would just like the option of 9mm. No big hurry so I would pick stuff up used if it became available.
 
Multi cylinder revolvers are not a new idea. S&W has offered them from time to time.

You do not need a second crane, however you do need the correct cylinder.

Here is an old model 34 that had a second cylinder re-chambered to 22 Magnum years ago. Great convertible trial or woods gun
34%20convertible%20small.jpg


This model 627 had a second cylinder re-chambered for 9x23 Winchester and cut for moon clips. It will fire 9x23 Winchester, 38 Super, 9MM Luger as well as 380 ACP from the black moon clipped cylinder. Obviously the original unfluted cylinder is capable of firing 357 Magnum and 38 Special with or without moon clips.
627%209x23-1.jpg
 
Which would be a quicker swap. Just changing out the cylinder assembly (with ejectors etc) or swapping out a cylinder/crane assembly.
 
Which would be a quicker swap. Just changing out the cylinder assembly (with ejectors etc) or swapping out a cylinder/crane assembly.
Yes, but S&W can't because they won't use endshake shims. If you have a second cylinder assy fitted, cylinder assy not cylinder assy and second yoke, you can trim the yoke and use shims, they stay in the cylinder, to set the cylinder's endshake individually so both cylinders will work with the same yoke.
 
You must remove the yoke (one screw) for both which takes about one minute. There's one more step to remove the cylinder from the yoke: the ejector rod must be unscrewed to release the cylinder. That's not a big deal at home. But in the field, a tight ejector rod and they should be tight, can be a challenge; you'll need padded pliers or vise grips and be practiced in doing it. If the ejector rod has been removed before and not cinched down super tight it's no big deal. But when you pull the cylinder from the yoke there's two springs and a center pin that are no longer retained and I wouldn't want to do it in the woods or over grass w/o working on a towel.

Bottom line, twice the amount of work to change cylinders as opposed to just changing yokes. But still only a couple of minutes, at least for me. It's a rather simple operation for someone who's done it a couple of times before hand.
 
You must remove the yoke (one screw) for both which takes about one minute. There's one more step to remove the cylinder from the yoke: the ejector rod must be unscrewed to release the cylinder.
???? The cyl assy, cylinder and extractor, with ejector rod, center pin, etc slides off the yoke all together just like a K, L, or N frame.
 

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