David don't take that style apart unless it's broken..
I used a 1/8" steel punch & small elf hammer to drive the cross pin out..
I reused the old bushing & used a new cross pin & a brass drift to drive it in so the beveled end wouldn't take any markings..
You have to dry fire the bushing out on a Centennial as you can't get a punch behind the firing pin because of the closed frame design..
I noticed when stoneing the rebound slide & DA Sear on the hammer that the back half of the Firing pin would just fall out, I had never seen this before & after asking around found just a few people who knew what was going on, S&W was helpfull by sending me 5 of the newer style FPs, the ones that are now "Too Long" for drop tests so now thier RARE, but only after talking to the right person & emailing the above pics did I get the right parts, 640s have the same parts BTW..
When I recieved my 940 it had a homemade endshake screw that was hand filed & just looked wrong & had no spring loaded end to it..
So after ordering these parts from S&W I started my dismantel of it to smooth it up a bit by squareing up the DA sear & stoneing the rebound slide smoother..
I can only assume that the broken pin was from the wrong endshake screw or many many dryfires, I don't dryfire my 940 without A-Zoom snap caps in .040" thick moon clip, Just in Case..
I'll also note that the factory Endshake screw has red locktite on it from the factory.. You can see it in one of the pics laying with the other parts..
If I were the OP I would be putting a fresh new mainspring in the gun first & being that only requires the grips to be removed.. And Go From There..
If/When the sideplate is removed I'd remove the hammer & hold the gun upright & touch the back end of the FP to make sure it's not broken
The replacement FP was stainless the original was carbon steel..
I didn't take a pic of the replacement just the one pic of it after install
Gary/Hk