J Frame Question

[jblackfish]

I'm a new member and new to revolvers. I just bought a Smith 442 and when "playing" with the trigger pull I noticed something that doesn't quite seem right - I'll try to explain:

After pulling the trigger through a full cycle, when I let out the trigger REAL slowly until I hear the first click (of "reset") if I pull back the trigger at that point (as if to shoot a 2nd round) only the cylinder turns - the hammer reset has not engaged. On the other hand, when slowly releasing the trigger after I hear the 1st click, if I continue to let the trigger out a very small amount I hear the 2nd click that is the actual hammer reset.

Put another way, as I let out the trigger there are two clicks near the end of the trigger release required to reset the hammer. (I hope that's clear enough.)

Is that normal for a J Frame or all revolvers or is that a reset setting/tuning refinement? It's no big deal because the trigger needs to be returned its full path in order to reset the hammer but it doesn't seem quite right to me.

 

[ContinentalOp]

The trigger must be released all the way forward in order to fire again. Every DA revolver is like that. It's the nature of the mechanism.

May I ask if you're a Glock shooter?

 

[jblackfish]

The trigger must be released all the way forward in order to fire again. Every DA revolver is like that. It's the nature of the mechanism.

May I ask if you're a Glock shooter?

It just seemed as though the 2 clicks I was getting ought to be one click, i.e., occur at the same time. Do you know if tuning could make that possible?

I have shot GLocks but, even tho they're great shooters, I'm not a fan of Glocks. I shoot IDPA and started with a Sig 226 (SSP) for about 15 months and have now switched to 1911 (CDP) which has always been my favorite pistol.

 

[diamonback68]

It just seemed as though the 2 clicks I was getting ought to be one click, i.e., occur at the same time. Do you know if tuning could make that possible?

First off, welcome to the best forum on the net.
You are barking up the wrong tree. ContinentalOP gave you sound advice. Tune 'til you run out of money and it won't change the way a DA revolver works.

 

[ContinentalOp]

It just seemed as though the 2 clicks I was getting ought to be one click, i.e., occur at the same time. Do you know if tuning could make that possible?

I have shot GLocks but, even tho they're great shooters, I'm not a fan of Glocks. I shoot IDPA and started with a Sig 226 (SSP) for about 15 months and have now switched to 1911 (CDP) which has always been my favorite pistol.

I don't know if it can be tuned the way you want, but I doubt it. It's never bothered me on any of my DA revolvers and I shoot them better than semi-autos.

I asked if you were a Glock shooter because that seems to be a common issue when they try shooting a DA revolver. Glock shooters often release the Glock trigger just until it resets before firing again, which can cause issues when they try to fire a DA revolver; they may end up short-stroking the trigger pull. I suppose that could happen on any semi-auto where the shooter rides the reset, though.

My suggestion would be just to accept it as the nature of the platform and get used to it.

 

[jblackfish]

Thanks to you both for the replies. I certainly understand that a double-action trigger must be returned all the way in order to achieve reset and I have no problem with that. In fact, I don't think I would have ever noticed it in normal range shooting. I wouldn't ever try to "ride the reset" when shooting anyway - and I like shooting DA. When I was shooting my Sig in competition my first (double action) shot was often more accurate than subsequent shots. I never really thought about having a "disadvantage" using a 1st shot, DA gun.

 

[diamonback68]

When I was shooting my Sig in competition my first (double action) shot was often more accurate than subsequent shots. I never really thought about having a "disadvantage" using a 1st shot, DA gun.

I'm sure you are aware, you CANNOT compare the DA 1st shot and subsecquint shots of a semi-auto with the DA of a revolver. Revolvers are a different animal, the DA of a revolver is always the same first to last shot.

 

[jblackfish]

I'm sure you are aware, you CANNOT compare the DA 1st shot and subsecquint shots of a semi-auto with the DA of a revolver. Revolvers are a different animal, the DA of a revolver is always the same first to last shot.

Of course I realize it. I was trying to say that, with my limited experience with DA, I don't have a problem with it. I have not shot a revolver in competition. I have shot a friend's 642 on the range, reasonably accurately. I liked it so I bought one. I also understand that it's a different ballgame than shooting 1911's and most other semi- autos. I might also say that I have enough friends who shoot revos in IDPA that I have a great respect for their accomplishments.

My original question was the result of my "exploring the trigger" of my new 442 yesterday simply to see where the reset occurred in the trigger release - simple curiosity, nothing more. Thanks again.

 

[photoman]

What you're feeling/hearing is normal and will be more pronounced with a lighter rebound spring (one of the reasons I don't like a light rebound spring).

p.s. Many semi-autos have a shorter reset point, not just Glocks.

 

[MeefZah]

Totally normal.

As an avid Glock shooter I have recognized this on my 642 and 442 and know exactly what you are describing.

 

[jblackfish]

What you're feeling/hearing is normal and will be more pronounced with a lighter rebound spring (one of the reasons I don't like a light rebound spring).

p.s. Many semi-autos have a shorter reset point, not just Glocks.

So maybe I should try a stronger rebound spring, or just forget it?

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

So maybe I should try a stronger rebound spring, or just forget it?

If the gun is original from the factory, you probably have a fairly strong rebound spring already. Not sure whether Wolff makes a stronger one. BTW, I consider your investigation very wise, and I never reduce the power of the rebound spring for exactly that reason. On a K frame, you can also sometimes incompletely release the trigger to a point where you cannot pull it at all. In actual practice, I have always found a factory spring sufficient, but there's nothing wrong with checking it out for yourself.

 

[Jeb21]

Welcome to the forum. You made a fine purchase in a 442. I believe that you will find it to be an excellent addition to your ccw arsenal.

 

[jblackfish]

Thx Model520, I'll probably check into it simply because I like to tinker. I may not change it but it can't hurt to ask. BTW, my friend's 642 trigger does the same thing you described that your K frame does: locks up at a point of incomplete release.

@Jeb, I think so too. I actually love the little revo and I think it's a great addition too.

 

[jblackfish]

Just to follow up, it looks like Wolff only makes lighter rebound spring that the factory (18 lb) - they offer them in 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, & 16 Lb for competitive revos - so I'm sticking with what Smith has in it. It's certainly not too strong for me and I'm not shooting competition with this gun anyway.

 

[bad shot]

i just checked on a 340pd same frame and it got the two clicks like you said.if you do that with a smith were you can see the hammer you will see that when you do what you did at the end of letting the trigger out the hammer gos back a little like a half cock safety on a auto and is a safety so the hammer is not setting on a primer.so i think you are hearing the reset and the hammer going back,but you cant see the hammer on a 442

 

[photoman]

So maybe I should try a stronger rebound spring, or just forget it?

I like the stock rebound spring.