Jamming 586

[DB586]

Greetings:

I have a model 586 revolver in good condition, but recently started to experience a problem. The cylinder will not always close, it jams when you push it in. I first noted this when I started reloading my own ammunition, the six rounds will fire fine but when I eject the empties and load the six new rounds and go to close the cylinder, it jams. I have tried unloading the new rounds and then reloading them again and it generally closes OK, most of the time. It seems that it may be the tang on the end of the plunger perhaps it is not fully re seating and thus it hangs up when the cylinder is closed, this is only a thought. I reload my own brass using: IMR 4227, 158 grain lead round nose bullets, on a Lee torrent press. The new rounds are the correct length, 1.750 or there abouts, using 9 grains of powder. Does anyone know why the revolver, that was working fine, is now jamming up, I had to withdraw from an IDPA match today in that this jamming problem started on the first stage.

God bless,

Dave

 

[ralph7]

Greetings:

I have a model 586 revolver in good condition, but recently started to experience a problem. The cylinder will not always close, it jams when you push it in. I first noted this when I started reloading my own ammunition, the six rounds will fire fine but when I eject the empties and load the six new rounds and go to close the cylinder, it jams. I have tried unloading the new rounds and then reloading them again and it generally closes OK, most of the time. It seems that it may be the tang on the end of the plunger perhaps it is not fully re seating and thus it hangs up when the cylinder is closed, this is only a thought. I reload my own brass using: IMR 4227, 158 grain lead round nose bullets, on a Lee torrent press. The new rounds are the correct length, 1.750 or there abouts, using 9 grains of powder. Does anyone know why the revolver, that was working fine, is now jamming up, I had to withdraw from an IDPA match today in that this jamming problem started on the first stage.

God bless,

Dave

Might want to switch to the turret press as the torrent was infamous for sacrificing quality for blinding speed.

 

[Badquaker]

Pull the cylinder and scrub it completely clean. Inspect it with a jeweler loupe so you can make sure it's clean. Check the ejector rod, make sure it's still straight.

 

[Skeetr57]

Probably unburned powder between the ejector star and the cylinder. IMR 4227 is not the best powder for loading magnum pistol ammo, especially less than full power loads. Switching to 2400 or faster burning powder will probably result in cleaner burning.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Does it "jam" without ammo loaded in the charge holes? If it does not, then the ammo is the problem, either primers not fully seated or rounds not fully seated in the charge holes.

If it is "jamming" without ammo, then the problem is in the revolver. Check to make sure the extractor star and its locator pins are not damaged, and that the extractor star fully seats flush on its own power after you have ejected any empties.

If that end of the cylinder is working fine, then it might also be the ejector rod, which could have backed out. It has a left hand thread, so tightening is in a counter-clockwise direction. Tightening incorrectly can do very serious damage. If you tighten without either a purpose made tool available from Brownells or Midway in the charge holes, it is remarkably easy to shear off the locator pins in the cylinder into which the ejector star fits. If you do not have such a tool, use EMPTY cartridge cases to support the ejector star while tightening the ejector rod. Be sure you use a non-marring surface on the rod itself to tighten. There is a purpose-made tool for tightening the rod which prevents bending the rod during tightening. If you don't have one, I have seen people talk about using a drill chuck (NOT the drill) and hand pressure, or vice type grips (be sure to wrap the rod in leather or non-marring wrap to avoid damage to the rod or the knurling. In the pictures below, see the specialty type tool for tightening the rod, and in the middle of the armorer's tools, see the chuck type of tool. Dillon has one and Midway also offers a vice grip with sized inserts for the various sizes of S&W ejector rods. There is one video on Google in which a guy uses a clothes pin fastened around the rod and then ordinary vice grips to lock on the close pin, the wood being against the knurling prevents damage. Just remember to insert empty cases into the charge holes to support the extractor star, and also DO NOT clamp too tightly onto the rod to avoid crushing it - it is hollow and is easily crushed.

 

[lhump1961]

Probably unburned powder between the ejector star and the cylinder. IMR 4227 is not the best powder for loading magnum pistol ammo, especially less than full power loads. Switching to 2400 or faster burning powder will probably result in cleaner burning.

^^^^I had that very problem one day at the range with my 686. Cylinder was binding after a few shots. Couldn't figure out why! Then my son-in-law shot some of the same rounds out of his Ruger and it did the same thing! The problem was unburned powder under the star thus not allowing the cylinder to close. These were some of my 1st reloads and I have loaded nothing but 2400 since. Go with the 2400 and the problem will probably be gone.

 

[H Richard]

Loading Unique powder can also cause the same problem. One possible way to locate the problem is to hold the ejection rod down fully then let it go to snap back into place. Do this a couple times and it often will dislodge the offending crud under the star.

 

[Krogen]

I keep an old toothbrush in my shooting box just to brush out powder residue from under the star. It happens often with all sorts of powders. I don't mind a bit. It's better than chasing brass flung to the hinterlands by a (gack!) semi-auto!

 

[DB586]

Guys:

Thank you, I will try 2400, but who makes that powder? It was a bad day yesterday, I started the IDA match pretty good but on the first relaod a jam, then once I did reload the cylinder would not close.
This problem started with my relaods, so hopefully new powder and a trip to the gunsmith will resolve it.

God bless,

Dave

 

[Coastie762]

2400 is made by Alliant.

I would also recommend to verify that your primers are seated below flush or below the case head. You can run a thumbnail over the primer after seating; high primers are easily detected.

 

[DB586]

Coastie762

Thank you, I will check further, Semper Paradus my friend!

Dave