Jigs

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Mar 31, 2011
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Georgia
Like to see your home made jigs for trigger, sear, hammer type stoning for perfect straight angles or you comments on free handing.
 
On S&W revolvers you do not ever stone the hammer. They are case hardened and the case hardening is only a couple of thous. thick. If you stone it you will go right through it and be down to soft metal. Triggers rarely need stoning except to very lightly polish any roughness out. The DA sear sometimes will need adjustment by stoning (after removing it from the hammer) if you are replacing it. Bottom line, unless you really know what you're doing don't stone the hammer or trigger. You can stone the rebound slide and the inner frame surfaces that it rides in. Use a very smooth stone and don't remove anything but the high spots.
 
I believe you missed the subject matter of the thread. I wanted to see a jig, not whether someone thinks I should use one.;)
 
So are you planning to stone your hammer or are you just curious about "jigs"? Heck, you don't need no jig. Just freehand it. Use a Dremel with a diamond bit to save time. What could possibly go wrong? I'm just raggin on ya. Seriously, I have never seen a S&W hammer that could be improved by stoning it. I have replaced quite a few S&W hammers and triggers that the owners thought they could "improve". They're pretty much perfect as they come from the factory. Trigger jobs on S&W revolvers are done by polishing a few parts (not hammers or triggers) and cleaning up machine marks inside the frame and reducing spring weights. Stoning is not going to help anything. But it's a free country. (more or less)
 
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I hold a sheet of 2000 grit 3M wet/dry paper flat on a piece of granite and polish the parts that move against each other. I don't polish until totally smooth, only the high machine marks.
 

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