K-22 .22lr.

[Airfouler]

Hey there, I just bought a revolver online, and have a question that I would like opinions on...the ejector rod on this old girl has (I think) a odd wear pattern on it.

The seller said it doesn't affect function, and since it's from 1948 (and a couple years older than me) I have taken a leap of faith and believe him.

I have not received it yet, but was thinking maybe I should try to find a replacement rod...but on the other hand a bit of cold blue would work for me as this is just a shooter...

Anyone have any idea how this wear would occur, and if it is a red flag in some way? Thanks

BTW...the pattern is on the other side of the rod as well.

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

 

[Targets Guy]

Not unusual in my experience. I'd guess lots of rounds downrange and lots of cleaning. Let's see your range photos. Bet you'll be happy with the results.

 

[Geno44]

It looks like plier marks from trying to tighten the ejector rod. Poor use of tools but no reason to panic. Try a little cold blue or leave it alone.

 

[SS336]

Looks normal for a revolver that has been shot a some. The rod could be bent but is easily checked and replaced if needed.
Looks like a nice K22. Enjoy it.

 

[raljr1]

There may be some small burr inside the crane that is rubbing the bluing off, or it could be that the ejector rod is bent slightly and that is rubbing the bluing. Neither situation is a critical flaw.

You can cold blue it and if it doesn't rub off, then it was simply caused by the previous owners habits. If it rubs off again, look to see the cause and determine how badly you want to fix it.

As others have said, not an unusual situation.

Robert

 

[Airfouler]

That was quick! thanks fellas, I hope to have her in hand in a few days and will give y'all some examples of poor shooting.

For her age I think she looks better than my wife. ouch.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Agreed...looks pretty normal to me. However, if you're concerned, a bent rod is easy to check. Here is my 1948 K-22 (K40403), and it also shows a lot of extractor rod wear. I like it the way it is and don't plan to do any cold bluing. That's a nice K-22 you have, enjoy!

 

[Airfouler]

Well. here she is...seems that it hadn't been used in a long time,but after a clp wash it smoothed up real nice.

A couple things... the double action trigger pull is stout, way over 8# which is the most my gauge goes. Single action, is what I would guess these were made for anyway, is a crisp 4 1/2.

I couldn't really see the front sight well, so I painted a gold dot on it which helps. I'm thinking I might try to get a gold one to put on there...open to suggestions.

All in all, I am pleased.

Could someone tell from the serial # what year it was built?

Thanks Gents.

 

[DodgeCity1951]

The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson lists your serial number at the early end of the 1949 range. It would take a letter to get the exact ship date, but likely in that area of 1948-49.

 

[Babysitr]

I'd shoot it some, see how it acts and go from there...would not bother me at all if she shoots good..maybe the previous owner was forcing it due to sticky extraction??

 

[Airfouler]

Thank you, sir...just as I was told by the seller, good to confirm.

Yea, after cleaning it, the extractor works just fine...I would guess the fella who owned it didn't keep it oiled up.

 

[wheelgun610]

The trigger pull on a rimfire needs to be a bit heavier than on a similar type of centerfire revolver because rimfire cartridges need a firmer hammer strike for consistent ignition. After several rounds fired, the rear of the cylinder will probably get fouled enough to keep the cartridges from seating as firmly as when the cylinder is perfectly clean. That causes the cartridge cases to have enough of a cushion that a light hammer strike might not ignite the primer. Gunk from firing can and will get under the extractor star and cause that same scenario - even if the outside of the cylinder itself appears clean.

I don't see anything about the ejector rod that I'd worry about. You see that rubbing more on some guns than on others. It's just a sign that yours has been out of the house and was used as intended.

Replacement front sights aren't something you're going to change easily. There may have been a few that shipped from the factory with custom ordered front sights, but there's really nothing available as a direct drop in replacement.

Mark

 

[JP@AK]

Could someone tell from the serial # what year it was built?

I show six of them in the K75xxx range. Five are K-38 Masterpiece revolvers and those all shipped in the spring of 1949. One is a .22 Combat Masterpiece and it didn't ship until May, 1950.

 

[rct269]

To pick a nit, it is not necessary to keep it "oiled up". As I recall, the instructions call for "a few drops of lubricant"---or words to that effect. I personally apply one drop to be shared by the rear and bottom of the rebound slide---another drop to each of the hammer and trigger studs. That's it for inside the sideplate. I apply a very thin film to the yoke for the cylinder to ride on. I can't think of any other lubrication points just sitting here without a gun. My lubricant of choice is "ULTIMA-LUBE" (Universal) from Wilson Combat.

I can think of my obsessive, compulsive, fetish for keeping it clean, probably a whole lot cleaner than it needs to be---------and I wouldn't have it any other way!! Clean means it comes apart periodically----all apart---everything except the barrel and action studs. Everything gets soaked in mineral spirits. Everything gets scrubbed. Everything includes all screws, screw holes (with assorted pipe cleaners), any and all other holes, passageways, nooks, crannies, and any and all other dark forbidden places. Everything gets rinsed with clean solvent. Everything gets dried with DRY high pressure compressed air. To those of you who perform these various tasks with sundry, expensive fluids contained in spray cans, let me suggest you explore other diversions-----racing tricycles perhaps.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[Airfouler]

Hmm...I don't believe that this is a Masterpiece, don't they have some sort of special marking? Really doesn't matter much to me in any case.

I'm gonna shoot 'er some more and see if the painted on gold works for my eye. The single action trigger pull is fine IMO, and actually the double action is heavy, but smooth... I can abide it.

With todays lack of primers, I'm not gonna shoot .38's until supply improves...I've got quite a bit of .22 and shooting revolvers vs. auto's makes more sense to me at this point. And I like revolvers anywho.

I should get a schematic and take her apart and see what's up inside that side plate, all I've done at this point is a sort of flush out with CLP that smoothed up the extraction, crane and trigger...not any real crud was noted, but...I should do as suggested.

Thanks for the replies

 

[JP@AK]

Hmm...I don't believe that this is a Masterpiece, don't they have some sort of special marking?

No, they didn't have "some sort of special marking."

Before the war, the K frame .38 target models were simply Military & Police Target. Beginning in 1947, S&W separated the two and named the target model the K-38 Masterpiece. They also introduced a K-22 and K-32 in the Masterpiece line. The K-22 Masterpiece was actually first, introduced just before the war, but it didn't have the ribbed barrel.

Your revolver would have been called a K-22 Masterpiece, and only that, until 1958, when the model numbering came into effect and it was called the Model 17 K-22 Masterpiece.

 

[rct269]

S&W's single action trigger pull of choice is/at least used to be 3 to 4 lbs. I don't know that they ever expressed a preference for double action or not. The trigger pull is easily altered to suit your preference with a plethora of Spring Kits. My choice is that from Jerry Miculek. It's available from BANG, INC., Brownells, and others. It is perhaps unique in that it allows you to decide/select your own double action pull, and then perform the alteration to achieve it (shorten the strain screw). I've never explored alternative single action pulls simply because that's not what I was focused on. The minimum D.A. pull recommended is 7 lbs., noting that less will occasion FTF with certain brands of ammunition (or components)----pretty much anything except Federal. I have my altered gun set at 7 lbs., haven't had any Federal, so have used WW which works fine. If you should learn that some's good, more's better, and too much really is too much, the solution calls for a new strain screw, and a repeat of the adjustment process--------which comes under the heading of child's play.

Ralph Tremaine

 

[1911luvr]

Hey there, I just bought a revolver online, and have a question that I would like opinions on...

I'm curious what these are going for nowadays. I have a nice K-22 and K-38 set that have been passed down from my grandfather and It would be nice to know the current value. Here's some pics of mine, and no, I will never part with them and simply want to get an idea what they're worth.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Airfouler]

I like the "Masterpiece" moniker...I guess I gotta call 'er my Master Piece.

As far as messing with the springs and such, I'm gonna shoot some more to decide, but duly noted. I've done that kinda work on a single action
err...Ruger and I have the proper screwdrivers, and the wife call's me 'handy'...time will tell.

The knowledge and help here is much appreciated.

I paid $700...likely 10 times what the MSRP was, but in today's market, I feel good about the price...and don't laugh, at least so loud I can hear 'ya.

 

[series guy]

At $700 you paid a very fair price for that gun. These days finding one for $500 or $600 is pretty rare. Many are listed for $1000. I set all my K frame .22s for target shooting with a 2 1/2 pound S/A and 8 1/2 pound D/A trigger. This makes them very pleasant to shoot.