I'm fairly new to revolvers and want your expert opinions. I am looking for an older .22 to be my primary shooter and have narrowed it down to a 6" K-22 or older 17- I really like the quality of the older Smiths. Should I concentrate on 1947 or newer or would the older ones be just as accurate/fun to shoot? Should I consider the 8"- I've never shot one before. Are they just as much fun/accurate/easy to shoot? Any models to stay away from or to focus on? Am I on the right track? Any advice would be appreciated.
K-22, M17 Am I on the right track?
- Thread starter Dewy12
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Larry from Bend
Member
You're not only on the right track you're on a great track. You'll not regret buying a 17 -- Even at today's prices. Get a nice one. S&W started numbering their K framed 22s in 1957-58. Before that there was the K22 not yet called a 17.
Any post WWII year of manufacture would probably be fine but you might call S&W and ask them if they still repair pre-17s. In my case, finding a gunsmith who knew what he was doing to work on old Smiths hasn't been easy.
I've had this 17 no dash since 1971 (shipped in 1959) and it finally needed repair about 7-8 years ago. Smith fixed it correctly and at little cost --- At that time they told me they were NOT working on pre 17s any longer. I'm not saying that I wouldn't buy a pre 17 -- Just something to consider.
Any post WWII year of manufacture would probably be fine but you might call S&W and ask them if they still repair pre-17s. In my case, finding a gunsmith who knew what he was doing to work on old Smiths hasn't been easy.
I've had this 17 no dash since 1971 (shipped in 1959) and it finally needed repair about 7-8 years ago. Smith fixed it correctly and at little cost --- At that time they told me they were NOT working on pre 17s any longer. I'm not saying that I wouldn't buy a pre 17 -- Just something to consider.
Last edited:
Engine49guy
Member
There are alot of variations within the K22 model and IMO they are all about the same with regards to accuracy and function.
I would say condition and price should be your guide with condition being the primary factor.
My preference is for older guns as collectables but as a shooter any dash revision will do,
The primary advantage of the longer barrel is the longer site radius and my guess is if you clamped a 4", 6" and 8 3/8" guns side by side the patterns would not print all that different although the attained velocity may be slightly higher in the longer barrel.
I would stay away from the aluminum cylinder guns and the newer classics with the MIM parts and internal lock just because they will not appreciate as much in time as the pre IL/MIM guns,
they are quality firearms with a lifetime warranty so as a shooter priced right are fine.
I would say condition and price should be your guide with condition being the primary factor.
My preference is for older guns as collectables but as a shooter any dash revision will do,
The primary advantage of the longer barrel is the longer site radius and my guess is if you clamped a 4", 6" and 8 3/8" guns side by side the patterns would not print all that different although the attained velocity may be slightly higher in the longer barrel.
I would stay away from the aluminum cylinder guns and the newer classics with the MIM parts and internal lock just because they will not appreciate as much in time as the pre IL/MIM guns,
they are quality firearms with a lifetime warranty so as a shooter priced right are fine.
Engine49guy
Member
Just a side note if your considering collecting then besides Condition the originality of the package also becomes a factor.
I would set a budget then start looking and see how much gun you can get for the money, Larry from the Bend makes a good point that the factory will not work on pre model marked guns anymore so that could weigh in if only interested in a K22 as a shooter.
I would set a budget then start looking and see how much gun you can get for the money, Larry from the Bend makes a good point that the factory will not work on pre model marked guns anymore so that could weigh in if only interested in a K22 as a shooter.
If you are looking for a shooter versus a safe queen just about any dash model 17 will likely prove to be one of your favorite revolvers. I know my shooter 17-3 with a 6 inch barrel is my favorite to shoot. I don't buy very many guns, unlike many on this forum but that one was a buy that I have never regretted.
I have seen the 8 3/8 inch version but it just seemed too long to me. I suppose it has it's place but it does not interest me. The 4 inch models are nice too but a bit harder to find. I did find a 4 inch 17-6 a while back but passed. I already have a 4 inch 617 but I just cannot afford to buy anything. Really it is a toss up on the 4 inch versus 6 inch in my book. I think if I were to want another 4 inch I would probably do a model 18 but right now I am not in the market for any more.
Lots and lots of fun to shoot. Enjoy when you do find one that you like.
I have seen the 8 3/8 inch version but it just seemed too long to me. I suppose it has it's place but it does not interest me. The 4 inch models are nice too but a bit harder to find. I did find a 4 inch 17-6 a while back but passed. I already have a 4 inch 617 but I just cannot afford to buy anything. Really it is a toss up on the 4 inch versus 6 inch in my book. I think if I were to want another 4 inch I would probably do a model 18 but right now I am not in the market for any more.
Lots and lots of fun to shoot. Enjoy when you do find one that you like.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- Messages
- 27,660
- Reaction score
- 21,288
I don't think you can go wrong with any mechanically sound K-22 or model 17, up to the recent Classic (MIM parts, lock and all). If it will primarily be a range (not carry) gun a 6 or 8 3/8" would be a good choice, and a 4" will carry easier and may be just as accurate. A full-lug 17 (-6) is a nice gun too...lots of choices. Happy hunting!
I have a K22 Outdoorsman from 1931, a 17-4 from 1979, and a 617-6 from 2006. All with 6" barrels. It is hard to tell any difference which one shoots best. All 22's are finicky about ammo, and when you find the right one for your gun it will shoot teeny groups.
Thanks for the help. I didn't know that .22s were picky on ammo- I've never owned a .22 revolver. Sounds like I should focus on the 17s and leave the K-22s to the experts. I still want an older one- you all contributed to my addiction to P&R guns. Any other thoughts to help me "zero" in on the right one?
They are; and in my experience, this issue is not confined to the K-22 revolvers. I have .22 rifles that have brand preferences as well. This is particularly an issue with semi-auto rifles. Some of them demonstrate ejection problems with one brand, while functioning consistently with other brands. Accuracy is also often related to brand.
Of the K-22 revolvers that I currently own, one shows a strong preference for Remington brand ammo, while another likes Winchester and dislikes CCI. You just have to do some experimentation with each of your rimfire guns.
I don't know about the first part. If you find a decent K-22 from before the model number period, I don't think you should hesitate to pick it up. Of the several I've owned, none has been problematic.
As for helping you "zero in," I'd suggest you keep an eye out for a Model 17-3 in the on-line broker ads or in local shops. These seem to show up more often than other dash numbers (they were manufactured for 10 years at a time when S&W sales were brisk) and can often be found for a reasonable price.
The one best piece of advice I can give you in terms of function, is that you diligently clean the charge holes in the cylinder after each trip to the range. Extraction problems most frequently develop as a result of buildup in this area.
One more thing. Saying K-22 in opposition to Model 17 is really a false distinction. All Model 17s are K-22s; but not all K-22s are Model 17s. When S&W started using model numbers, they did not drop the model names, they simply added the model number. So, beginning with shipments in early 1958, the K-22 Masterpiece became the Model 17 K-22 Masterpiece.
Good luck!
Lobster Picnic
Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2010
- Messages
- 1,571
- Reaction score
- 996
The Heritage Series is fairly recent. It's still a K-22, but won't be as nice as an older one. The pinned barrel was dropped in 1982 during the 17-4 series. I have a 17-3 with beautiful bluing and a great trigger. Anything 17-3 or earlier will be P&R.
I have a 17-4 that I got almost 30 years ago, had a trigger job done on it right after I bought it and have since put 10 if not 20 thousand rounds through it and it still a sweet gun to shoot, you can't go wrong with a model 17, one thing about the pre-17 models is that S&W does not always want to work on them I think for a shooter a 17-3 or 17-4 are really nice revolvers.
Engine49guy
Member
The most accurate way to describe a Model marked S&W revolver is the Model number and revision but "K-22" encompasses any S&W K frame that is chambered for the .22lr round. In other words a 1973 Model 17-3 is a K-22 just as a 1931 K-22 Outdoorsman is as well.
Also as far as I know while the barrel pin did disappear later in the dash 4 revision all K-22's have recessed cylinders.
The 17-3 is a good buy generally compared to other revisions because of the long run it had but I wouldnt shy away from a nice 17-2 through 17-7 or 617 through 617-4 in high condition and priced right.
Also as far as I know while the barrel pin did disappear later in the dash 4 revision all K-22's have recessed cylinders.
The 17-3 is a good buy generally compared to other revisions because of the long run it had but I wouldnt shy away from a nice 17-2 through 17-7 or 617 through 617-4 in high condition and priced right.
