K-38 Four-Screw Disassembly

[just plain joe]

I'm familiar with disassembly procedure for three-screw K frame revolvers. However I soon will be receiving a four-screw K-38. With the fourth screw at the front of the frame near the trigger, is there anything that I should be wary of when removing same? Is it even necessary to remove this screw?

Googled and Binged this but found nothing helpful.

TIA.

JPJ

 

[Targets Guy]

cylinder stop screw

 

[Tadeus67]

I'm familiar with disassembly procedure for three-screw K frame revolvers. However I soon will be receiving a four-screw K-38. With the fourth screw at the front of the frame near the trigger, is there anything that I should be wary of when removing same? Is it even necessary to remove this screw?

Googled and Binged this but found nothing helpful.

TIA.

JPJ

If it has a screw in the upper front part of the trigger guard, then it must be a 5 screw S&W.

This particular screw( the one in front of the trigger gard) holds the spring that gives tension to the cylinder stop. In the illustration you can identify it as the cylinder stop screw, take in consideration that there is a plunger there....you know things tend to fly.....good luck and congratulations on your new revolver.

 

[gmarshall99]

A plunger and a spring.
i would only take this screw out if you had a good reason. You can get the side plate off with it in.

 

[SS336]

A plunger and a spring.
i would only take this screw out if you had a good reason. You can get the side plate off with it in.

I agree with Mr. Marshall. Don't need to take it out for a routine under the side plate cleaning unless cylinder stop is not working.
Rinse, oil, reassemble.

 

[fleabus101]

When..if..you pull the TG screw out. .a plunger
w the spring on it will come out..Be a aware
that its poss to put the plunger and spring back
in its recess backwards.. pay attention to the orientation of the plunger to reinstall it correctly..

 

[just plain joe]

If I wish to remove the crane/cylinder assembly for cleaning and lubrication, then it is necessary to remove this screw. Am I correct?

 

[H Richard]

It is not necessary to remove that front screw. Only the side plate (front) screw, and keep it separate from all other side plate screws, it is fitted to the yoke. Midway has lots of video's on disassembly and cleaning of Smith & Wesson.

 

[jag22]

Reread the posts. You do NOT need to and probably should not remove that screw. It has nothing to do with removing the cylinder. The screw to remove the cylinder and yoke is on the side. You can also go to You tube and find many helpful videos for both disassembly and reassembly of many firearms.

 

[just plain joe]

Thanks to each of you that replied.

Learning has occurred.

JPJ

 

[JOliver]

They have covered it well as usual.
Don't worry about that screw at all unless the cylinder stop spring is gunked up and you need to clean it. You can usually clean it with it in there anyway. That's why Smith stopped putting it in later models as they modified it slightly and it's not needed but don't let it intimidate you.
Get you a nice clean surface, I recommend some cardboard and punch you some small holes in it I have even suggested that you outline the gun with a pencil or marker and jab the small holes in the location they're in the gun at... sounds silly until you mix the screws up or get it all back together and the cylinder is real tight because you used one of the screws from a different hole in the side plate and it's a fraction of an inch longer.
Put the screws in the holes you've made and just take your time.

Not sure if you're going to remove the hammer and the trigger but if you do, the cylinder remade bar that is laying inside has a spring and a small rod/detent. THAT is the one little sucker that would always disappear on me when I would take it out like Houdini.
If you remove the hammer and trigger open the side plate and snap some pictures with your phone. It has helped me and it's just a good reference to look at and learn.
And good luck with the hammer block sometimes on reassembly you can snap the side plate on with ease but a lot of times that bar wants to move on you and the plate won't snap back on. If that happens go slow and pull the plate back off and start again DON'T get frustrated and decide to crank the screws down on the side plate thinking it will just snap in place.

 

[Protocall_Design]

To get the sideplate back on easily, put the hammer block in with it all the way up. Then roll the gun over on the topstrap/barrel with the grip frame up at about 30 degrees off horizontal. Then gravity will hold the hammer block in place while you get the sideplate on. Then lay it back down on the bench to install the screws.

 

[bmcgilvray]

I have bought used Smith & Wesson revolvers from the era with gunked up internal assemblies including cylinder stop and spring and it was expedient to remove the cylinder stop screw and associated for a cleaning. Removal and re-installation is no big deal. If only the rest of Smith & Wesson revolver smithing could be so easy.