Does anyone here MANUFACTURE and reload the .224 Harvey K Chucker?
jcelect
jcelect
K-Chuk
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wheelgun28
Member
Well, yesterday I ordered a new set of 22K Hornet dies, new Hornet brass and some heads.
Never did reform brass before so I am learning as I go...
Plan on trimming the brass making a lite load to form the cases. Then remeasure the and size the brass, trim as needed.
I look forward to the thread.
Meanwhile, I'm making some Jet loads while I wait for the supplies.
Never did reform brass before so I am learning as I go...
Plan on trimming the brass making a lite load to form the cases. Then remeasure the and size the brass, trim as needed.
I look forward to the thread.
Meanwhile, I'm making some Jet loads while I wait for the supplies.
Ivan the Butcher
Member
It appears to be that there are 2 versions of the K-Chuck. The first was a .05 inch short 22 K-Hornet. The second was a .05 inch short regular 22 Hornet. Does not appear to be much advantage over a K-22 Mag in a revolver.
Either K-Hornet or K-Chuck would be great in a carbine/rifle length firearm, but it just comes up to 218 Bee velocity then. (I have a No.1 Ruger in 218 and the do 50 grain bullets at 2700-2750 in 26" and are fantastic accurate)
Then you can improve the 218 Bee to a Mashburn chambering, and almost reach 221 Fireball Velocities.
There are sharp shouldered verities of almost any cartridge ever commercially made! The question is or was, "How much velocity do you want?" 223 Win Super Short Mag?, 5.56 Van Horn? (Small belted mag!), 22 Cheetah? (Improved 22x 243 Win!), 220 Swift? >>>The list is truly endless. Personally I love 22-Hornet, 218 Bee & 221 Fireball in 10" & 14" contenders and short action rifles. The noise levels are standable and the barrels seem to be almost forever (If not ruined by wrong cleaning methods!) The powder efficiency runs 400 to 600 per pound! The better rifles run 1/4 to 1/2 MOA accuracy: that is 1.5" groups or less to 300 yards. In other words: Head shots on MICE to 200 yards! Easy body shots to 300! With far less noise and recoil than any 223 rifle (including AR's)
WHAT IS NOT TO LIKE?
Ivan
Either K-Hornet or K-Chuck would be great in a carbine/rifle length firearm, but it just comes up to 218 Bee velocity then. (I have a No.1 Ruger in 218 and the do 50 grain bullets at 2700-2750 in 26" and are fantastic accurate)
Then you can improve the 218 Bee to a Mashburn chambering, and almost reach 221 Fireball Velocities.
There are sharp shouldered verities of almost any cartridge ever commercially made! The question is or was, "How much velocity do you want?" 223 Win Super Short Mag?, 5.56 Van Horn? (Small belted mag!), 22 Cheetah? (Improved 22x 243 Win!), 220 Swift? >>>The list is truly endless. Personally I love 22-Hornet, 218 Bee & 221 Fireball in 10" & 14" contenders and short action rifles. The noise levels are standable and the barrels seem to be almost forever (If not ruined by wrong cleaning methods!) The powder efficiency runs 400 to 600 per pound! The better rifles run 1/4 to 1/2 MOA accuracy: that is 1.5" groups or less to 300 yards. In other words: Head shots on MICE to 200 yards! Easy body shots to 300! With far less noise and recoil than any 223 rifle (including AR's)
WHAT IS NOT TO LIKE?
Ivan
OP
I believe the two rounds on the Hornet you are thinking about are the K-Hornet and the .224 Harvey K-Chucker. The K Hornet is a Hornet with a sharp shoulder and was used in rifles. The Harvey K-Chuk is a Hornet that is shortened by .050" and the fire formed to a sharp shoulder. Because this round was shortened it could be used in the S&W K frame 22s of the 1955 era(pre17 & 48)! This was the precursor to the 22 Jet!
Hey wheelgun28
My system is;
Any 22 caliber die for decapping, shorten the case by .050", then a neck resizing, after which I reload with a small load of almost any powder and a cheap bullet! When fired this fire forms a case to the K - Chuk case. Neck size again and load with the load I want! My problem is that after firing the second reload some of the cases split at the neck. I have used many old Hornet cases, both Win and Rem, and I thought maybe the older cases are the cause of the splitting. I have never used new cases! I just had a new K - Chuk built, a 17-6 8 3'8" barrel, and I can't wait for summer to start testing! Spent the winter working up cases! Any suggestions on what powder and load? I have settled on the Hornady 35gr V-Max for a bullet!
Heavier bullets, larger than 40grs , did not fair well in my original K - Chucker! You need to stay short, OAL, because of the K frame cylinder.
jcelect
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The Harvey .224 Kay-Chuk is a handloading-only proposition though not a difficult one as wildcat cartridges go, but some handloading experience is required. You could probably find someone to supply loaded cartridges, but it might be prohibitively expensive.
The late Kent Bellah, gunwriter from Saint Jo, TX, did more to publicize this cartridge than anyone else. He worked closely with Jim Harvey on a number of unusual cartridge developments. I have seen load data over the years in a few publications. Perhaps there is some on the Internet, but I'd be cautious with old data. I don't believe the Kay-Chuk ever lived up to expectations, with actual velocities somewhat lower than predicted.
wheelgun28
Member
JC, to me your plan sounds good. I have been reading up on and yet to do it.
Splitting seems to be a common problem with this. I read someplace it might be worth annealing the cases. These cases shouldn't be annealed down too far. It was recommended to use the water tray method. I might try some both ways, can't hurt to try.
Fire forming, loads I read about using paper and not a bullet. It seems convenient, can seak one-off in the back yard? Just not sure how to actually do it some it makes enough pressure?
The bullets I am starting with a 30g speer cheap ones. Figure start cheap and work up. These bullets are a blunt nose and seem short.
Powder I haven't figured out yet. I saw some mild loads with unique and some stouter with 2400. I have them on hand so Ill try them.
I was considering to cast and load lead bullets, thats another project.
Splitting seems to be a common problem with this. I read someplace it might be worth annealing the cases. These cases shouldn't be annealed down too far. It was recommended to use the water tray method. I might try some both ways, can't hurt to try.
Fire forming, loads I read about using paper and not a bullet. It seems convenient, can seak one-off in the back yard? Just not sure how to actually do it some it makes enough pressure?
The bullets I am starting with a 30g speer cheap ones. Figure start cheap and work up. These bullets are a blunt nose and seem short.
Powder I haven't figured out yet. I saw some mild loads with unique and some stouter with 2400. I have them on hand so Ill try them.
I was considering to cast and load lead bullets, thats another project.
OP
Powders?
I have used Unique for case forming and tried H110 for the Hornady 35gr V-Max but want a few more options for the 8 3/8" barrel! I would like to see what speed I can get over the chrono this summer while looking for good accuracy! The old gent I bought my original K - Chuk from was using it in the 50s and had cast his own bullets! He said he could not find Sisk bullets anymore! I have never heard of this company!
jcelect
I have used Unique for case forming and tried H110 for the Hornady 35gr V-Max but want a few more options for the 8 3/8" barrel! I would like to see what speed I can get over the chrono this summer while looking for good accuracy! The old gent I bought my original K - Chuk from was using it in the 50s and had cast his own bullets! He said he could not find Sisk bullets anymore! I have never heard of this company!
jcelect
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Sisk bullets were hand made in Iowa Park, Texas until the '70s when Ralph Sisk died. I think Kent Bellah used mostly Sisk bullets when he worked up loads for the Kay-Chuk cartridge. He only lived about 75 miles from Iowa Park and I'm sure he knew Ralph Sisk well. Sisk bullets were very popular for varmints and targets for many years and Sisk made .22 bullets in a greater variety of weights than the big bullet manufacturers of that era.
Documentation
I got what appears to be a copy of original documentation from Lakeville Arms Inc. that they provided with their Kay Chuk conversions if anyone would be interested.
I've scanned it into a PDF file if anyone is interested in it.
Can you upload files here?
I got what appears to be a copy of original documentation from Lakeville Arms Inc. that they provided with their Kay Chuk conversions if anyone would be interested.
I've scanned it into a PDF file if anyone is interested in it.
Can you upload files here?
SOFMatchstaff
US Veteran
I have been loading for my K-Chuk for years, and the house load is the speer 33 gr TNT, and the Calhoun double hollow pt 30 and 37 gr over HS-6 start at 6.5gr and work it up, small rifle primer, prefer Remington. this gives me 1800+- .... You might have primer set back and cylinder drag with a pistol primer. I didn't like the H110 or other Hornet std powders, to much blast and velocity was erratic. I really like the Calhouns, nasty even at 1800fps...
wheelgun28
Member
Thank you for the offer, I'd enjoy reading it!
Thanks for sharing.
I think you can post it like a picture. They have a sticky someplace explaining how to do it.
wheelgun28
Member
I trimmed up some brass today .050 gone.
I tried to anneal some of the cases, it isn't easy. The torch blows them over, the neck gets way too hot first. I loaded some up with a very low charge of Trailboss. I need to goto the range and try them.
My local range is pistol only and under 1200fps. Id need to travel this spring to go beyond this load.
I tried to anneal some of the cases, it isn't easy. The torch blows them over, the neck gets way too hot first. I loaded some up with a very low charge of Trailboss. I need to goto the range and try them.
My local range is pistol only and under 1200fps. Id need to travel this spring to go beyond this load.
