K frame double action adjustment
- Thread starter Jaco1234
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dsf
Member
Yes, but ....
Weight of the DA pull is (mostly) determined by the mainspring and the trigger rebound spring. Full strength mainspring and trigger rebound spring result in heaviest pull and most positive return. From there it can be a matter of balance. A lighter mainspring with full strength (18 lbs IIRC) rebound spring will give a lighter but still positive trigger return. But at some point you'll get light strikes, if the strain screw is backed out too much.
A strain screw should always be turned down tight otherwise it will eventually walk out resulting in lighter strikes.
Certain ignition and a lighter return are a balance of springs and cleaning up the internals. For a basic "action job" you may want to buy a Wolff or Wilson spring pack. They're drop in and do OK.
I've found a reduced mainspring from the above with a 14 or 15 lb trigger return spring provides positive function without working on internals.
Am assuming the revolver in question is not a J frame.
I'll second the Wilson spring package. That and a clean and lube and maybe some light polishing can sure help. I never use my strain screws to adjust trigger pull.
U tube
Jerry miculek trigger job.
May be a option for you.
Good luck
Jerry miculek trigger job.
May be a option for you.
Good luck
Spend a couple bucks and order second strain screw. You should always keep it screwed down tight, but you can file the screw until you reach a lighter pull. File too much and primers won't go off. I recommend this if the trigger is absurdly heavy. I have a 7" 686 that was a few pounds way to heavy, so it wasn't smooth. I shaved the screw just enough to make the trigger a good weight, but the rest of the parts are fitted well enough that it actually has a really good trigger now.
You might want new springs and stuff, but I recommend a lightly shaved strain screw first since they are literally like $3
You might want new springs and stuff, but I recommend a lightly shaved strain screw first since they are literally like $3
My method of doing the main spring is to screw the screw out until it doesn't fire. Turn it in a 1/2 turn at a time until it fires every time. Tighten screw counting 1/2 turns till tight. Remove screw and measure. A full turn of a 32 to the inch screw is .0273. Remove .0135 for every 1/2 turn needed to tighten leaving tip of screw slightly rounded. Install, tighten and test. You can buy all the 8/32 screws, with a variety of heads, you need at an Ace hardware that has a Gun Screw collection if you want to leave your original screw stock.
Changing out the rebound slide spring helps too. Just make sure it snaps the trigger back firmly every time.
Making sure the hammer, trigger and rebound slide bosses have no high spots and the hammer does not drag on frame helps to. Smooth beats light.
I got all wrapped up in getting a better trigger. Then figured out the very best thing to do was become a better trigger puller.
Unless the trigger has hard spots or is really hard, a few pounds of pull should not be a problem for a strong finger using a firm grip.
Changing out the rebound slide spring helps too. Just make sure it snaps the trigger back firmly every time.
Making sure the hammer, trigger and rebound slide bosses have no high spots and the hammer does not drag on frame helps to. Smooth beats light.
I got all wrapped up in getting a better trigger. Then figured out the very best thing to do was become a better trigger puller.
Unless the trigger has hard spots or is really hard, a few pounds of pull should not be a problem for a strong finger using a firm grip.
Last edited:
retired2006
Member
I just find the desired adjustment and "blue locktite" the screw, no problem.
