K frame hammer fall.

[mcanders]

See video: YouTube - Smith and Wesson Hammer Fall

Is this normal for a K frame hammer to fall with light taps from a wooden mallet handle.
The stainless model 67 (http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/93899-fixing-bad-trigger-job.html) is one that I had to re-stone the single action sear to fix a bad trigger job. The model 10, 2 inch barrel has a factory hammer/trigger set. Also tried a model 10-8 heavy barrel police trade in, they all do this.

PS: I am not hitting the hammer that hard. I have been able to use a ball point pen to tap the hammer and get it to fall on all three guns.

 

[srgvaz]

Push off is tested with finger pressure If you tap (vibration) the action then you are attempting to break them. If you continue to run your test you will damage the internal parts on those guns permanently, that's if you haven't already. If you "READ" the Kuhnhausen book (S&W J, K, L, N frames) you will notice it is for reference only and it will not make you a gunsmith.
Quit playing gunsmith before someone gets hurt.

 

[crsides]

Greetings from up north ... Fort Mill

I don't think they are suppose to pass a test like this. Vibrations from the first hits are setting up the subsequent trip. As long as it doesn't trip with moderate thumb pressure, it should be ok.

You may be damaging the hammer notch / sear by tapping with the hammer.

Charlie

 

[sniperecho6]

Good thing those arent mine cause i would need bail.

 

[mcanders]

Thanks for the reassurance. I am sure you have asked your dumb questions in life only to be put down by others.
I never claimed to be a gunsmith, no where close.

I am worried about safety, that is why I asked.

 

[smithandwessonguy]

Good morning,

I would be happy to fix your push off problem. Let me know if I can be of any help to you.

 

[Tango 106]

Hammer Block

Beause the hammer can strike if cocked and then accidently dropped or such, S&W uses the hammer block safety. What it does, as I understand it is block the hammer before it makes contact with a chambered round, unless the trigger is pulled back as when you intentionaly fire the gun. The hammer block is the rod that floats on top of everything else in the action and a flat piece of metal sits between the hammer and forcing cone area. You might want to make sure they are still installed, they would keep the pistols from firing if cocked and loaded and the hammer fell before pulling the trigger. Hope this helps to understand how it works.

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

I hate to see stuff like this.

Anybody could force the hammer to slip. Push off is tested with your thumb. Press about as hard as you would fire the gun. If it doesn't slip, it safe.

While you wack the gun, the hammer is being forced sideways (under vibration) causing it to slip. All your doing is ruining the engagemment hooks. It will eventully slip off easier with continued abuse.

 

[tomcatt51]

The hammer block is the rod that floats on top of everything else in the action and a flat piece of metal sits between the hammer and forcing cone area. You might want to make sure they are still installed, they would keep the pistols from firing if cocked and loaded and the hammer fell before pulling the trigger.

Not how it works. The hammer block is supposed to prevent a gun (trigger forward, hammer down) from firing if dropped and it lands on the hammer spur. It's a redundant safety feature since the rebound slide holds the hammer back anyway. It requires a "perfect" drop and major mechanical damage for the hammer to come forward even without the hammer block. It's really redundant with the FMFP guns and firing pin inertia (which is why S&W firing pins are titanium) issues if dropped from sufficient height.

Seems in the late 40's a S&W revolver was dropped 50+ ft onto the steel deck of a ship, landed on the hammer spur and went off. In typical knee jerk reaction (Navy) we got hammer blocks. It ranks right up there with 1911 grip safeties that were mandated by the Army.

 

[Tango 106]

Thanks tomcatt51 for the correct description of the hammer block function. I was not really sure about how it worked, other than to assume it was similar to some modern auto pistols. In my mind something just did not fit with my assumption. I learned something good. Thanks again.

 

[kimber 22]

Thanks for the reassurance. I am sure you have asked your dumb questions in life only to be put down by others.
I never claimed to be a gunsmith, no where close.

I am worried about safety, that is why I asked.

You're correct - we should all act more like adults on-line. I must admit though, I'm curious what inspired you to test the revolvers in this manner? It looks like the hammer was staying back with thumb pressure. Just curious - not trying to be offensive...

 

[mcanders]

I can tell you exactly how I came to tapping on the hammer.
I had the Kuhnhausen book open on the table reading the checkout section. I had the sideplate off checking a few clearances with feeler gauges and working the action slowly to inspect the action with a magnifying glass.
I reached for a cleaning kit, that contains my cleaning brushes, patches and cleaning oil. I had the stainless model 67 on its side with the hammer back with the sideplate off. As I picked up the cleaning kit I bumped the hammer with the corner of the kit and the hammer fell.
That triggered me to look at the action again, with the sideplate off, and to watch how little vibration it took to make the hammer fall.
I know that the sideplate keeps things square and from moving around so I reassembled the revolver and tried it again. I reached for my lightweight mallet with the non-marring rubber ends on it because that is what I use to remove the sideplate. A few light bumps and the hammer fell. I tried it a couple of times and compared it to my other revolvers. Then made the video to ask the question.

 

[kimber 22]

I can tell you exactly how I came to tapping on the hammer.
I had the Kuhnhausen book open on the table reading the checkout section. I had the sideplate off checking a few clearances with feeler gauges and working the action slowly to inspect the action with a magnifying glass.
I reached for a cleaning kit, that contains my cleaning brushes, patches and cleaning oil. I had the stainless model 67 on its side with the hammer back with the sideplate off. As I picked up the cleaning kit I bumped the hammer with the corner of the kit and the hammer fell.
That triggered me to look at the action again, with the sideplate off, and to watch how little vibration it took to make the hammer fall.
I know that the sideplate keeps things square and from moving around so I reassembled the revolver and tried it again. I reached for my lightweight mallet with the non-marring rubber ends on it because that is what I use to remove the sideplate. A few light bumps and the hammer fell. I tried it a couple of times and compared it to my other revolvers. Then made the video to ask the question.

Thanks mcanders! Just curious, like I said, since it's not a test I read about - yet...