K frame hammer question

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Excuse a newby question, but I have a near-mint Model 19-3, my first and only S&W. I was inspecting the hammer and realized I know little about the parts and nomenclature of this handgun. I don't have an exploded drawing for reference. For example, is the small part that actually strikes the primer called a firing pin or what?

Anyway, on my Combat Magnum that little part pivots a bit, freely, on the pin that retains it in the slot in the hammer. Is that normal?

Is there a place in the Forum to find drawings, manuals, FAQs, or tutorials on these handguns. There's always YouTube, but I like to read, it's an old habit I can't kick.

Brian
 
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Absolutely normal for the firing pin to pivot. Just as the cylinder still has a tiny bit of free-play when it is "locked up", the firing pin needs just a hint of wiggle room to make sure it makes it all the way thru the slot in the frame.
 
FYI your Model 19 is a K frame; perhaps you mistyped. And, yes, the pivoting on the hammer nose is normal.
Yep, fat finger, skinny keyboard.

So it's the "hammer nose". Good to know, thanks.

I'm amazed how well timed this 19 is, and smooth the DA break. I think someone described it as a "rolling break". Dry firing it DA, I can, with practice, not disturb the sight alignment at all. (My Taurus 85 is impossible to group DA, it dives every time, slinging shots up to a foot low at 15 yards. But SA, it's actually quite accurate. I'm guessing it's not worth trying to correct.)

I put Hogue Bantam grips on it.

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Do Smith revolvers require any lubrication?
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Yes. Not more than a drop in several places, but you don't have to disassemble the gun to lube it.

On mine, with the cylinder open, I push the extractor as far out as it will go, and put one drop on the shaft at the cylinder, then work the extractor to distribute it. One drop at the gas ring on the front of the cylinder. One drop on the yoke pivot (another S&W nomenclature: the yoke is the pivoting part that holds the cylinder. Most everyone else calls it the crane). Cock the gun and one drop next to the hammer. While it's cocked, one drop against the front of the trigger where it disappears into the frame. One drop in the cylinder stop hole. That will work for a long time before you need to oil it again.
 
Everyone has their preferences in terms of cleaning, etc:

Carbon and general cleaning: Iosso Triple Action Oil Solution

Flushing/cleaning/de-greasing individual parts: Tetra Gun Spray, Cleaner and Light Lubricant.

Bore solvent: Hoppes #9

Light synthetic grease: Super Lube w/ PTFE

Light oil: Lucas Gun Oil

Be sure to read and follow label directions, protect your eyes.
 
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Thanks. For lube oils I've these, which do you like:

FP-10
Break Free CLP
Rem Oil
Hoppe's #9 Lubricating Oil
Tri-Flow
3-in-One Household Oil
Esso Handy Oil
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I finally checked the armorer video posted above by Hondo44, wherein he uses Hoppe's #9 lubricant, so that's good enough for me since I have some. He also mentions "no CLP" and "no Ballistol" but "just mineral oil", so one might conclude Hoppe's is just that.
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