K frame in 357 Sig

fyimo

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I would like to see them make a K frame in 357 Sig and if they did I'd order one tomorrow.
 
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Sorry fyimo, but the cylinder would burst. If I recall correctly .357 Sig pressures are up there with .40 short & weak and the big three revolver magnums. I don't see why an L frame wouldn't take the pressure, at least with a titanium cylinder like the .40 L frames had. However, too much taper in revolver cases causes binding with the recoil shield which is what killed the .22 Jet, and I've read bottle necked cases aren't used in revolvers for the same reason, so, I suggest a K frame .38 Super is a better idea. ;)
 
sig 357

I like the idea. I too want a revolver but in 40 cal. I was also told it wasn't something that would sell. I know at one time they did sell a L frame but it was in the early stages of the 40 cal. Now that many departments have s&w 40 handguns a back up in 40 cal would be smart.
 
Well the MAP "maximum average pressure" for 357Sig is 40K psi. It maybe possible in a revolver, but were are looking at 6 or 5 shot cylinders! Swappable cylinders for other cartridges would be doable such as 38spl, 357 mag, 38Super, 9x23, 9x19.

SAMMI pressures
40S&W 35,000psi
10mm 37,500psi
357Sig 40,000psi
9x25Dillon "Not specified!" But 40K to 44K...

It would be nice if S&W would make the M&P10mm and set up a package with 10mm, 40S&W & 375Sig barrels.

I have my G-29 setup with 10mm, 40S&W, 375Sig & 9x25Dillon barrels. Standard magazines hold 10 rounds + 1 in the pipe and the use of the G-20 magazines hold 15 rounds + 1 in the pipe. I will soon to have all the barrels for my S&W 1006 as well.

I load for all of these cartridges and understand their workings with various powders and bullet combinations.
 
Wouldn't the cylinder be too small to accept the .357 SIG! Perhaps it would work as a 5-shooter.

I'd just be happy if they'd crank up proper, traditional K-Frame .357 Magnums again. All pinned and recessed too.
 
Historically, bottle-necked cartridges have not worked well in revolver chambers.
The .22 Remington Jet in the K-frame, which is essentially a .357 Magnum case necked down to .22 caliber, was an equally hot number, throwing a 40 grain bullet at 2,000 fps.
Unfortunately, at those high pressures, the primer would back out and tie up the cylinder.
Part of the bugaboo appears to be the generous headspace required between a revolver's cylinder and its frame.
I suspect that the same would happen with the .357 Sig as did the .22 Remington Jet, since the SIG and Jet operate at high pressure.

This doesn't happen as much with straight-walled cases (.38 Special, .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, etc.) because the sides of the case grip the chamber, keeping the case from thrusting rearward.
Nor do you see it as much with bottle-neck cases like the .32-20, .38-40 and .44-40 because their pressures are kept low.
Bottle-necked cases act like a wedge, failing to grip the chamber walls and thrusting back.
The .256 Winchester Magnum, a .357 case necked down to .25-caliber, was introduced after the .22 Remington Jet's failure. It was never offered in a revolver, only in single-shot handguns (and some Marlin 62 rifles). Since about 1970 I've heard a few rumors that a manufacturer planned to resurrect the .256 Win. Mag. for revolvers. Nothing ever came to fruition. Undoubtedly, tests revealed it was not a good idea.
Would the .357 Sig work in a revolver?
Perhaps. I'm not optimistic.
Besides, what's the point? The .357 Sig was designed to duplicate the .357 Magnum's performance with 125 gr. jacketed bullets, in a semi-auto.
If you want a revolver to do that, just buy a .357 Magnum.
 
I have to ask why you'd be interested in a 357 Sig revolver, we already have the 357 Magnum and prices for either caliber are comparable in my area. In addition IMO the 357 Sig was an attempt to duplicate the 357 Magnum in a semi auto caliber that falls jsut a touch short. To be blunt, a reduced recoil 357 Magnum will match the 357 Sig so why re-invent what's already been done.
 
I have to ask why you'd be interested in a 357 Sig revolver, we already have the 357 Magnum and prices for either caliber are comparable in my area. In addition IMO the 357 Sig was an attempt to duplicate the 357 Magnum in a semi auto caliber that falls jsut a touch short. To be blunt, a reduced recoil 357 Magnum will match the 357 Sig so why re-invent what's already been done.

For me... one reason. Slapping moon clipped bottleneck rounds into the larger charge holes would seem potentially faster and easier than even .45 ACP.
 
For me... one reason. Slapping moon clipped bottleneck rounds into the larger charge holes would seem potentially faster and easier than even .45 ACP.

OK, I can buy that. However you have to keep in mind the base diameter for the 357 Sig is the same as the 40 S&W. That will NOT fit in smaller diameter cylinder featured in the K frame and in the L frame S&W used a Titanium cylinder to contain the pressure of the 40 caliber. I suspect that you would have to step up to the N frame in order to do something like this with a steel cylinder.

Then you still have to consider the issues that past bottlenecked calibers caused in revolvers. One way around that might be to build a wildcat based on the 10mm casing and loaded to slightly reduced pressures, say in the area of 32K psi. The longer case length might keep the casing in place during discharge and help prevent tying up the cylinder. It would be an interesting idea to tinker with, if I ever hit the lottery.

However a much simpler answer already exists at a much lower total cost. That is either the 610 or 625 with a chamfered cylinder. I have both and can assure that they are fuss free during reloads if you employ the following "trick".

What you do is reach through the frame with the trigger finger to index the cylinder by holding one of the recesses with a fingertip. Once the cylinder is indexed you can then hold the fresh load in position so the fresh load will drop right in every time.

BTW, I open the cylinder it what many would consider a distinctly odd fashion. Start with the barrel down and left index fingertip on the front of the yoke. Then use the left thumb to release the cylinder by "pinching" and use the right index finger in a cylinder recess to push the cylinder open while using the left hand to keep the cylinder against that right index finger. Once open, tip barrel up, tap rod with left index finger, tip barrel down and drop in a fresh clip. I know it sound really odd, however it doesn't require a lot of grip shifting and with practice it can happen very quickly. As for why it works, that cylinder ALWAYS ends up on the same position, so you don't even have to look to drop in a fresh clip you can do it purely by feel.
 
I'd buy the TR8 tactical platform or a Night Guard in a six shot L frame or even N frame .357 SIG.
One reason the NG .41 magnum is so appealing to me is that .41
caliber Magnum power in a small package.
 
The 9x19 mm cartridge has a taper and in case of the S&W 547 the propensity for the case to back out of the cylinder, when fired, was circumvented by the action of the retainer pin. I am not sure if this would work for the .22 Jet as the taper is significantly greater than the 9x19. However, it may work for the .357 SIG.

The .357 SIG in a revolver would be an interesting propostition but may not be commercially viable.
 
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