K32 Pre 16 4 Screw

[ancient-one]

My wives cousin bought both a K-32 and K-38 at about the same period of time. He sold the K-32 before he died and I bought the K-38 with box and tools but no paperwork from his wife. According to the Catalog it is a 1955 gun. So I would guess the K-32 was also about that time. I hope that the person that got it back then realizes what they have. He shot his guns but they were like everything else that he had, kept in immaculate condition.

 

[CptCurl]

Identifying a "dash 1" ejector rod.

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I also understand there wasn't a stamped Model 16-1. However the -1 1st eng change as you likely know, was the extractor rod change from right hand to left hand thread. This change has been observed on several pre-dash one models, because the frame model # is stamped prior to complete assembly. If there were no right hand thread parts left by the time of the cyl assembly, we have observed left hand thread parts on pre -1 model stamped frames.

If you check the thread direction and it's left hand, your Model 16 is a "virtual" Model 16-1. Then you'd have to search for another K32; a "true" Model 16 with right hand thread.

This should be spotted visually without trying the thread direction. The -1 (left hand thread) ejector rods have a groove cut behind the end knurling. I probably learned that from you along the way.

From the photo, I think Lloyd has a genuine Mod. 16. There's no groove.

Curl

 

[Hondo44]

Good eye CptCurl,

Extractor rod thread direction indicators:

K and N frames were changed to left hand thread in the '59 to '62 period and identified by their Model dash # and a groove cut behind the rod tip knurling. Again, as always with Smith, beware of those with the thread change dash # but still with right hand thread/no groove, and vice versa. Often an L is also stamped on the rear face of the cylinder.

Note: the above is not true for I & J frames which were introduced with left hand threads after the war and do not have the groove cut behind the rod tip knurling.