Knife sharpener help needed

Usmc5811

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I’ve been using a set of crock sticks for years but am now in need of a new sharpener. I want something that I can do serrated knives up to razor sharp filet and kitchen knives. I don’t want an electric knife sharpener and would prefer it to be easily stored and transported. So what say the experts here? Any input is welcome.
 
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I can only relate my experience. Whatever you choose requires much patience.

I have had the best results with the Lansky Diamond sharpening kit. I can get my carry knives and German kitchen knives extremely sharp. But it is tedious.

I tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker but just couldn’t get the hang of it. I wasn’t able to hold the knife straight all the time.

Smith makes a sharpener much like Lansky and I think it’s actually better. The sharpening stones are bigger with more grip surface.

And I’ve tried both versions of the Worksharp electric with no luck there either.
 
I love my Spyderco Sharpmaker. I have the optional diamond and ultra-fine ceramic rod sets, but the standard medium and fine rods do a good job on most knives. The triangle shape of the rod makes sharpening serrated and recurve blades simple. The video that comes with it is also on You Tube.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LBDnJv5B58&t=16s[/ame]

In the video, Sal Glesser, the founder of Spyderco explains how to use the Sharpmaker for a wide variety of sharpening task.

I've used mine on a wide variety of kitchen, folding, and hunting knives and am very pleased with it.
 
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I can only relate my experience. Whatever you choose requires much patience.

...

I tried the Spyderco Sharpmaker but just couldn’t get the hang of it. I wasn’t able to hold the knife straight all the time.

I use two clamps to hold my Sharpmaker and use two hands on the knife to help keep the blade vertical. I also stand with the sharpener at waist level so I'm looking down over it.
 

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The diamond Lansky is a little awkward but you get the hang of it pretty quick and it is FAST. Way faster than a stone at least and when I first got mine I actually had fun with it and started sharpening other things in the kitchen and my wife got mad at me for maker her big meat cleaver TOO sharp!
 
I can only relate my experience. Whatever you choose requires much patience.

Truer words were never spoken. Crock sticks always worked well for me, and there's no telling how many knives I ruined trying to sharpen them on whetstones. I tried the (electric) Work Sharp knife sharpener (Ken Onion edition), but I couldn't get the hang of it. Finally, I found this hand sharpener that I get excellent results with:

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener

A plus is that it's small and carries easily in a backpack. Somehow, this thing works for me.

Good luck,

Dave
 
My crocksticks that I had worked great, I was usually the one at the hunt camp sharpening everyone else’s knives. Except for my dad he had the 4 stick model and I had the 2 stick model. I had days I could make my knife razor sharp and days that it was just sharp. I want something that I can be consistent with. However the problem may be the operator and not the sharpener itself!!!
 
Truer words were never spoken. Crock sticks always worked well for me, and there's no telling how many knives I ruined trying to sharpen them on whetstones. I tried the (electric) Work Sharp knife sharpener (Ken Onion edition), but I couldn't get the hang of it. Finally, I found this hand sharpener that I get excellent results with:

Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
A plus is that it's small and carries easily in a backpack. Somehow, this thing works for me.

Good luck,

Dave


This works better for me than anything else I have tried. I am sure there are other systems that get knives sharper for other people, but this works the best for me. Coarse and fine diamond-coated steel slabs. A ceramic rod and a leather strop, plus a small length of small-diameter ceramic rod for serrations. The whole thing is 7”x1.5”x.75”, going easily in a pack, or quite awkwardly in a pocket.

I have a Smith’s set that I never really bonded with, and a variety of stones. I have also had some success with EZE-LAP pocket diamond hones, very portable and handy.
 
I have owned many (too many) knife sharpening "systems" in my lifetime. Some sort of work but only on certain size and styles of knives. Others severely reduce the usable life of the knife by removing way too much material. Some are nothing more than expensive gimmicks and some are so ridiculously priced I can't believe people actually buy them!

At the end of the day, the best, simplest, least expensive and tried and true way of effectively sharpening knives is with good old Arkansas Stones in a few different grits. While it does take some persistence, patience and skill to truly understand how to sharpen knives free-hand, once you do "get it" you will be very happy you can get rid of all the "systems" and just sharpen your knives the way it has been done for thousands of years.

As far as sharpening serrated knives is concerned, get yourself a tapered diamond encrusted file and they will do the job quite well. It's not that difficult and works well.

I'm sure there are many who love their sharpening machines, jigs and systems and for some who are not as fussy they might be satisfactory. I like all my knives to be "shaving sharp" and Arkansas Stones work for me, quickly, efficiently and no set up time or fancy jigs are needed.

From someone who has been around the block with knife sharpening - I wish I just learned how to use the Stones from the get-go and I would have saved thousands and been a lot happier!
 
I just use stones and steels. But then sometimes I use the backs of other knives, the bottom of ceramic dishes, car windows, whatever works. I don't have any serrated knives and I've never sharpened one. I have played with Lansky type sharpeners. You can make a perfect edge with one, if you're patient enough.
 
I like the diamond coated steels for knives because they follow the curve on the blades. The blades of chef's knives, slicers, clip blades, etc. are not straight. I have found that with the steel I only sharpen a very small section of the blade at any given instant. With a stone I sharpen a 2 or 3 inch section of the blade. This is just what I want for chisels and plane blades that have a long straight section of blade. Over a period of time the use of stones has converted several of my pocket knife clip blades to long sheepsfoot blades because they removed too much from the belly of the blade as opposed to the ends. I use the 5" fine grit Ultimate Edge steel for most of my sharpening. I have a DMT fine grit serrated sharpener for the serrated blades.

I have stones of various sizes and materials that I use where the blade is straight blades. If a knife gets very dull I take it to the 1x30 belt sander which has 320 and 500 grits available. Then I will finish it with the fine (600 grit) or extra fine (1200 grit) diamond steel. This gives an edge that has enough tooth that it will do a good job of slicing in the kitchen. If I need a finer edge the strops with green compound come into play. These can be as simple as cardboard from cereal boxes, pieces of smooth wood, or leather glued to the wood as needed.
 
The use of power tools (Belt Sanders and Bench Grinders) can remove excessive metal shortening the life of the blade as well as annealing the metal and taking away it's original temper. They just cut too fast and too rough IMO. Just saying.......

I find that it is best to stay on top of knives. By that, I mean do not let them get really dull! Once they get very dull, they need to be re-profiled and you have to basically start from scratch once again. If you do a a few passes on a very hard Arkansas Stone once in a while, they never really get dull, all that is needed is a few strokes on a very hard stone, and they will last a longer time. It also makes cutting way easier! Heck, I use my Pocket knife to cut a V-notch in my cigar because my pocket knife is sharper than the Cigar cutter is.

Another trick (if you have a multi-blade knife such as an old fashioned pocket knife) is to dedicate the different blades to different tasks. I keep the Small Sheeps foot blade super crazy sharp for cutting my cigars and "surgery work" - ha! The middle Clip blade is kept at a larger angle so its sharp but very durable and the large main blade is kept somewhere in the middle (sharp & tough) for rope, wood, cardboard and general use that required a large blade. This way you have minimized how you wear the smaller super sharp blades and always have something to get the job done. Sharpening angles are another subject for another discussion though......

One last "trick" - if you are in the "field" and need to get your blade a bit sharper, strop it on the pant leg of your Jeans. It will straighten out the burr on the edge and effectively give you a sharper knife temporarily. ;) Be careful!

THE DOWNSIDE OF HAVING A SUPER SHARP KNIFE: You will be the first one your friends and hunting buddy's ask to lend them your knife LOL!! :)

My 3 blade EDC and Arkansas (medium, hard and extra hard stones) below.
 

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I have used whetstones for as long as I can remember. I found an 8" long x 2" wide hard Arkansas stone while going through my deceased Father In Law's "stuff," that I use to touch up the blades around here. I have given up on sharpening my wife's kitchen knives. I have an old Rapala fillet knife that stays on the table that I use. I keep it sharp.


Have a blessed day,

Leon
 
+1 for Lansky. Fast and virtually fool-proof.



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For sharpening utility grade kitchen knives, After doing some research, I settled on a Chef's Choice Hybrid Diamond Hone Model 220. It does a credible job of quickly sharpening all kinds of knives. If I want a super sharp knife for carving I still use my crock sticks!
Jim
 
I bought a 3 sided Smiths stone maybe 30 years ago, of which I normally only use the middle grit white stone, and an old antique 4" razor stone with a black (coarser) side and a red (ultra fine) side. I have been happy with this ever since. (Once you learn how to hold the knife blade at the proper angle).
 
I bought a Norton whet stone about 2" X 10" X 1" at the local butcher supply house. Chuck it up in a vise and go to work. Finish with a straight razor hone and crock sticks. Keep the hone and crock sticks clean with Barkeeps Friend liquid cleaner.
 
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