knife sharpener recommendations

[phulklip]

I'm looking for a knife sharpener and with so many on the market it's a little confusing. What are you using and why?
Thanks in advance

 

[The Tourist]

Go to US Hand Knife Sharpening Systems | Edge Pro System

If you get a chance, call Ben Dale, tell him about your needs and your price point. He'll help you.

Tell him you know "that crazy biker."

 

[jlrhiner]

How about a soft Arkansas and some light oil?

 

[jkc]

I've been using the Lansky system for years --- it's a goof-proof way to get precisely the desired edge angle for various purposes, includes stones of various "grits" for work on blades of different types and in different conditions, etc. I highly recommend using the c-clamp style stand, if you can't permanently mount the stand to a workbench or the like... I haven't dusted off my bench stones in the decades since I started using the Lansky gear, and I've yet to see or hear of anything that seems superior.

 

[The Tourist]

How about a soft Arkansas and some light oil?

If you have a steady hand and are willing to put in the practice, there's nothing wrong these tools for most common knives.

The problem is that most guys who claim to be "experts" usually ruin knives. They wobble all over the place, they destroy the bevel, they use too coarse of a stone, and telling them they have no talent is tantamount to telling them they're a lousy lover.

Even only about 10% of the butchers you meet know anything. Most people keep grinding metal off until the knife gets sharp by accident.

 

[Chubbs103]

I have to admit, I fall back on my Lansky when I want a sharp knife.

Chubbs

 

[jlrhiner]

I actually used a LoRay sharpener (the predecessor to the Lansky) until I realized I was becoming dependent on the damn thing and was loosing the ability to use a stone.

If you can whittle, you can use a stone.

 

[wuluf]

I have a lansky and it's ok, but I bought 2 grades of DMT diamond stones and hand sharpen now. The lansky seems to actually take longer, and i like using the stones...

 

[Marshwheeling]

I have a Smiths sharpening system, but when I look closely, I think the Lansky is a better bet. Maybe next year.

 

[straightshooter1]

I like the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It works well.

But, to be completely honest , I send my Benchmades back to Benchmade and they sharpen them for me for a total of $5 including shipping and they change, adjust, inspect and mess with the knives till they are, as some say, scary sharp.

Once a year, every year, my Benchmades get an Oregon vacation and they come back refreshed and ready to work for me as they should.

I believe Spyderco has a similar program, but I have never used it.

Bob

Edited to add that there are a number of mailaway sharpening services which seem very reasonable, (like $5 per blade, sometimes a bit more) and, if I really wanted to tune up a hunting knife, I might consider them.

 

[Muley Gil]

I also use the Spyderco system. I carried mine to Kosovo and Afghanistan and used to have a "sharpening day" when I would sharpen knives for the international police officers and/or police advisors.

 

[GatorFarmer]

A brick. Upgrade to a cinder block if you have the room and want to get fancy.

 

[vatchunter]

Another Lansky user here...

 

[etc1006]

Yep, another here. I use one of the quick hand held deals that have the spring loaded edges for a quick touch up. But for a good redo or for an edge that's buggered I'll break out the Lansky and the table clamp for it.

 

[Rangerpat]

Another vote for the Spyderco Sharpmaker, very easy system to use and works good on serrated edges.

 

[wetdog]

Lansky here too.

 

[hberttmank]

Another Sharpmaker fan here.

 

[SweetMK]

Everybody talks about stones and diamond files.

The wife just "asked" me to sharpen one of the kitchen knives.

I was 10 years dull!!

I decided I had to try a single cut file, as the knife was so dull.

The file worked perfectly!!

The file left "a set" like a knife steel does. It cut the lunch ham perfectly.

We will see how long it lasts, so far, so good.

 

[Ray]

The DMT kit is also very good.
Regards,Ray

 

[Smith357]

What are you trying to sharpen? What type of edge do you want?
Different edges and profiles require different tools. If you have nothing at all start with a good set of Arkansas stones and a Medium/Fine India stone and a fine machine file. Use the file and India stone for working tools like your axe, hatchet, and machete's for a micro serrated chopping edge and re-profiling your finer edges. Use the Arkansas soft / hard / black stones for honing and polishing that working edge to a surgical edge. In 20 years you will have more stones, hones, and other edge tools than you know what to do with. Once you start getting up into the fine Japanese polishing stones get ready to pay. I never used any commercial "system" that did anything more than dress an edge, and a lot of them ruin an edge.

 

[The Tourist]

What are you trying to sharpen? What type of edge do you want?

In the end, this is a better question. In other words, what are you intending to cut.

For example, if you are going to cut slippery wet things, a 'toothy' edge might be better. Most of the knives I sharpen (for chefs, caping, slicing) are usually at a more acute angle with more polished edges.

Yes, Japanese stones are more expensive. Oy, you should see my work area! But any stone is for a specialized use. Far too often we just grab something to sharpen or repair an edge.

If you have to 'push' through media, your edge is either poorly crafted or poorly chosen.

 

[Smith357]

In the end, this is a better question. In other words, what are you intending to cut.

You are correct, even though my kitchen knives all cut food, they are each specialized blades for cutting different types of jobs. The 6" French knife has micro serrations for tomatoes while the 8" has a thin saber grind and fine polish for meat and vegetables and the 10" has a thick convex edge for splitting chickens and lobsters.

 

[1morethan8]

I sharpen my "good" knives by hand using only Arkansas stones in different grades, and always with honing oil.
My hunting knives has always had a "variable edge". It starts out course and becomes fine at the point. The last 1/3 of the blade will shave and is used to skin or cut where bone wouldn't be a problem. The course section can cut near bone and cartilage without worry about chipping or harming the blade.

 

[The Tourist]

10" has a thick convex edge for splitting chickens and lobsters.

If you're boning a lot of chickens (some people buy chickens whole to save a buck, and I eat a lot of chicken) you might be better served with a honesuki or a deba.

The honesuki is a tad whippier, while the deba is a solid knife with heft.

While such items might be a luxury for many frustrated chefs, a caterer who slices all night for a large wedding appreciates a better tool.

That, and once you've driven a Lamborghini, a Prius just won't do.

 

[phulklip]

I'm planning on sharpening pocket knives. I've tried stones in the past but had trouble keeping the same angle. I'm going to give the Lansky a try.
Thank you all for your comments

 

[rimfired]

Old school, stones' oil. H/S W a s h i t a (I keep getting dinged for an actual word.?!? and varying Arkansas. Once there just a diamond stick touchup. Works for me.

 

[Smith357]

If you're boning a lot of chickens (some people buy chickens whole to save a buck, and I eat a lot of chicken) you might be better served with a honesuki or a deba.

I'm one of those guys who buys them whole and split them myself. For boning I use an old Swiss Forshner 6" curved flexible boning knife to get the meat off the bone, its been ground down very long and thin to go around tight corners. My 10" Forged J.A. Henckels 4 star or my Chinese Cleaver are used mainly for splitting chicken bones as I find them too heavy for extended slicing and dicing of veggies. My laminated Deba is reserved for skinning and boning fish, the edge is far to fine for hacking chicken breast and back bones.

 

[sipowicz]

Another Sharpmaker fan here.

Ditto.........

 

[The Tourist]

My laminated Deba is reserved for skinning and boning fish, the edge is far to fine for hacking chicken breast and back bones.

I understand. My clients use any (expensive) folded Japanese steel like a kid wielding a ball peen hammer. Sure, they might dull or roll the edge, they figure that's my problem...

You seem to have a nice collection of things that work. It's nice to see a guy who actually chooses the right cutting edge.

The reason I mention the honesuki is that many folks (and I'm one of them) seem more comfortable in utilizing a 'family' of knives. For example, if they like a Yaxell Ran slicer, they most likely like the Ran sushi knife.

The problem is when picking the "best" of a category. I have a Hattori, a Shun, and Ran gyuto(s). Edge geometry is pretty much the same, but it's like picking your favorite child. I think it's more of a matter of moods. The Hattori has a lighter whippy feel. The Shun is more solid.

But nine out of ten people would say, "Gee, it looks like a knife to me."