L frame hammer/trigger removal.

[Nraman]

Is there a proper sequence for removing the hammer and trigger?
Right now I remove the hammer first because I was told so, but I was thinking that it would be easier for me to go the other way.
Any problem with that?
Thanks.

 

[Alk8944]

Hammer, then the rebound slide, then the trigger.

 

[2hawk]

Disassembly is one of the many topics in the http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

 

[Nraman]

Hammer, then the rebound slide, then the trigger.

I recently sent my gun to S&W to replace a frame lug. Before I send it, I noticed that the hand had a small wear spot on the tip.
When it came back, the hand was new, the hand pin is not swaged on the hand and the hammer doesn't come off like it used to, it hits the back of the hand and I have to fight it. It works well otherwise.
I thought about grinding the back of the hand a little to give it more clearance.

 

[Alk8944]

When installing the hammer are you pulling the trigger all the way back and holding it while you drop in the hammer? You then install the hammer in a cocked position being sure the sear portion of the trigger is between the part of the hammer where the cocking notch is and the spring loaded lever in the front of the hammer (It's called the sear).

If this doesn't work there should be no problem caused by removing material from the back of the hand, but that shouldn't be necessary. After all, S&W got it together with the parts as they are so it has to be technique.

FWIW, the hammer can be installed first , then the trigger and rebound slide. but it is a pain because you have to hold the hammer slightly to the rear while trying to install the rebound slide. I have done it out of pure laziness when fitting the cylinder stop, but it is hard to explain just how it is done, but easy to demonstrate. Maybe this is how the factory did it when repairing your gun.

 

[Nraman]

When installing the hammer are you pulling the trigger all the way back and holding it while you drop in the hammer? You then install the hammer in a cocked position being sure the sear portion of the trigger is between the part of the hammer where the cocking notch is and the spring loaded lever in the front of the hammer (It's called the sear).

If this doesn't work there should be no problem caused by removing material from the back of the hand, but that shouldn't be necessary. After all, S&W got it together with the parts as they are so it has to be technique.

FWIW, the hammer can be installed first , then the trigger and rebound slide. but it is a pain because you have to hold the hammer slightly to the rear while trying to install the rebound slide. I have done it out of pure laziness when fitting the cylinder stop, but it is hard to explain just how it is done, but easy to demonstrate. Maybe this is how the factory did it when repairing your gun.

Thanks, before I sent the gun to the factory, I took it apart and I didn't have any problem. It will go in trigger first but, I really have to fight it.
I think I understand how to go hammer first, I will just have to move it back a little off the slide for slide installation. Perhaps stick something in front of the hammer, to prevent the hammer from being full forward.

 

[Nraman]

Some things are easier to do than to discuss.
I took the revolver apart, first mainspring, slide, trigger, hammer. No problem, I replaced the slide spring with a 13lb Wolfe, stoned the area of contact of the frame with the slide, installed a trigger stop rod, removed the original stop, put a touch of moly grease on the trigger/hammer contacts.
It feels so good, it should be illegal.
Thanks for the information everybody.