Lanolin as case lube

[BC38]

This is not a thread about everyone's favorite lube. If you use something OTHER than lanolin, that's great. If you want to extol the virtues of your favorite lube that isn't lanolin, please start a thread about it. Please do not post comments about anything other than the use of lanolin as lube. I am only posting this thread to ask specifics about using lanolin. Hopefully that is clear enough.

First question: Is 91% isopropyl alcohol OK to mix with the lanolin? I've seen people referring to using 100% pure isopropyl alcohol, but I can't seem to find any in the local drug stores. They all sell 70% and 91%. If 100% is the only thing that will work properly, where do you get it?

Second question: What is the best ratio to mix the alcohol and lanolin? I'm seeing suggestions of everything from 8:1 all the way to 16:1

Third question: Does the trace amount of lanolin that ends up on the cases need to be removed? If so is wiping on a towel sufficient, or is tumbling better? And if I tumble them, are they going to ruin my walnut media?

I'll be using the lube primarily for .223/5.56 cases, though I'm open to trying it on my pistol cases too. Anything that makes sizing easier is OK by me.

Again, please confine all comments and posts to the topic of using lanolin as a case lube.

 

[rg1]

I've only used 99% but I've read where others have used 91%. Ordered 99 % from Amazon. The other 9% is water and doesn't mix with lanolin. With 99% a mix at 12-1 seems to be very close to Dillion's lube. 8-1 is definitely too thick and greasy but haven't tested 16-1. I wipe with a rag then tumble for about 20 minutes in corn cob media. Lanolin in the necks is hard to remove. Dusty walnut media cakes on and makes a mess.

 

[Speedo2]

I cannot verify the dilution ration, but after my spray bottle sets for awhile it separates with around 10% white lanolin setting on the bottom of he spray bottle.

I'm sure that you're aware of the necessity to let the lubricant dry for an hour or so after you apply the lanolin spray & roll. The first time I tried it I didn't know that and went to re-size some 308 brass while the alcohol wasn't completely evaporated. The vapors left some interesting dents in those first few cases and it took me a while to figure out what was causing it. -S2

 

[BC38]

Yeah, I realize that you need to give the alcohol "carrier" some time to evaporate off and leave just the lanolin oil behind.

I read somewhere that someone recommended using Heet fuel additive instead of isopropyl alcohol. I looked up the MSDS on Heet fue additive and it is almost 100% methanol alcohol. That doesn't sound like a good thing to use since methanol is poisonous.

I know that the 91% rubbing alcohol is 9% water and water isn't miscible (won't directly mix) with an oil like the lanolin oil. However, what I learned years ago in chemistry class is that water and pretty much any type of alcohol are miscible - that is one of the reasons alcohol based products (like Heet) work when added to gasoline to "absorb" water.

The alcohol doesn't actually absorb the water but it will mix with a reasonably small amount of water in such a way that the mixture won't separate back into water and alcohol, even when mixed with an oil based product like gasoline.

Since alcohol will also mix with oils, adding it to gasoline keeps any water in the mixture from separating out and allows the engine to "burn" it off as part of the alcohol/fuel mixture.

I would think that the 9% water in 91% pure isopropyl alcohol would behave in the same way. The alcohol would be miscible with both the lanolin oil and the water and allow the 3 different substances to remain (mostly) mixed. A quick shake before application should be all that is required. The only effect I would expect the water to have is to slow the drying time a bit since the water won't evaporate as quickly as the alcohol.

If anyone has actually tried mixing their lanolin with 91% pure isopropyl and had a problem with it, please post up your experience.

 

[rh73]

The red heet is 98.5% isopropyl alchol, that's the one most use.
It just evaporates faster than 91%.

 

[Steve K]

I get 99% isopropyl alcohol from CVS and the pharmacy at Food Lion, no shipping costs. The ratio I use is 1:10; it works great.

 

[scattershot]

I have used the lanolin/alcohol mix as a spray, mixed according to the recipe I can't recall now, but I got stuck cases with it. I have also used pure lanolin, with good results. Barely wet your finger with it and apply it to the case. You don’t need nearly as much as you think, and be careful not to get too much on the neck/ shoulder junction, or you'll get oil dents when you resize.

 

[jag22]

I’d second what Stevek said. I just haven’t done it for a long time because it’s easier to use a commercial (won’t name it) product and I like the aerosol spray. I throw them back in the tumbler, with corn cob media, for about ten minutes.

 

[Imissedagain]

I use fingers on my bows and when applying lanolin.
A sailing family gave me a few jars years ago.
As stated.... watch those bottlenecks.

Doesn't take much and we keep our dies clean.
I just wipe with a clean cloth but there's very little, as it doesn't take much.

Extra Careful to make sure it never gets inside the cases.

 

[BC38]

The red heet is 98.5% isopropyl alchol, that's the one most use.
It just evaporates faster than 91%.

AHHHH, I see. I'm betting that is the formulation for diesel fuel instead of gasoline, huh?

 

[andy52]

The red heet is 98.5% isopropyl alchol, that's the one most use.
It just evaporates faster than 91%.

I use Heet because it's easier to find then higher percentage isopropyl alcohol, 91% will work it just takes a little longer to evaporate.

 

[serger]

I get 91% isopropol at Walmart in 1 quart bottles in the health
and beauty aids section.

I mixed it 10:1. Works OK but leaves more lanolin on the cases
than I like. Dillon Precision's case lube is alcohol/lanolin. What
ratio I'm not sure.

I tried to use the 100% isopropol but it's so hygroscopic the
concentration dilutes and you get isopropol in the 90%+ range
anyway.

After loading you will have to remove the lanolin. I took an old
towel , put 20 or so rounds on it, sprayed with 91%, buffed til
they weren't tacky anymore. Repeat til done.

I really think you should compare this process to using one of
the newer spray lubricants like Hornady's "One Shot". The last
5 gallon bucket of .223 I did was done with One Shot and the
total processing time was cut about 60%.

Having said all that, the lanolin/alcohol spray is excellent for
using to store carbon steel to prevent rusting. It is also very
good as a wood polish for grips and stocks. So after shooting
and cleaning blued guns I spray them down before going back
in the safe.

 

[gwpercle]

I cannot verify the dilution ration, but after my spray bottle sets for awhile it separates with around 10% white lanolin setting on the bottom of he spray bottle.

I'm sure that you're aware of the necessity to let the lubricant dry for an hour or so after you apply the lanolin spray & roll. The first time I tried it I didn't know that and went to re-size some 308 brass while the alcohol wasn't completely evaporated. The vapors left some interesting dents in those first few cases and it took me a while to figure out what was causing it. -S2

The vapors aren't causing the dents ...it's the undried liquid doing it . This will happen with any spray on lube , let them all dry before the sizing .
Gary

 

[Funflyer]

I can't speak for rifle brass, but a 20:1 ratio works wonders for all my pistol brass. I first tried it in 9mm with carbide dies and it made such a significant difference with sizing that I lube all calibers now. I use steel dies for 38/357 and the same ratio also works great. I have the lube in a small spray bottle, and just spray some on my thumb and index finger, then roll each case between my fingers. I can usually lube 10-15 cases between sprays. It leaves very little residue on the brass so I typically won't bother with wiping it off unless I'm loading test rounds. Those get rolled around between a folded towel so I can easily write on them with a Sharpie.

 

[gwpercle]

If you don't want to go to the hassle of tracking down ingredients , mixing and spray bottling a batch , look for Vermont's Original Bag Balm Skin Moisturizing Ointment , comes in a square green can .
It has a lanolin base , rub a little on your fingers and apply to each case, rub any excess into rough dry skin parts ...hands and body (good for feet too ) .
The lanolin base makes it a great case lube and you can use it for skin moisturizing to boot . $7.68 at wally mart 8 oz. can . cheap and easy to find .
Gary

 

[DWalt]

I have used Bag Balm for case forming. My mother thought it was a magic cure for anything that ails you. I suppose it could be dissolved in some solvent like alcohol, resulting in something like diluted Lanolin.
----------------------------------
Recent update - Yesterday (1/19), I formed over 100 7x57 cases from 8x57 brass (Jugo military, Berdan primed) using Bag Balm as a lubricant. It worked just fine for that purpose. I just applied a little of the Bag balm using my fingers to the case neck and shoulder area. Bag Balm label says its base is lanolin and petrolatum (like Vaseline), plus some medicinal components.

 

[cfplinker]

I use 4 parts lanolin and 1 part castor oil. Just put a dab on your fingers and wipe the case with it. This is a little bit softer than Imperial and does a good job.

Afterwards, I wipe the case using a rag that has had a spritz of WD40 sprayed on it. This gets rid of the lanolin and the rag also wipes the WD40 off of the case.

 

[cmj8591]

Unless you are living on a sheep ranch, what is the advantage of going to these lengths with all of the commercial stuff that is available on the market?

 

[Gunhacker]

What about denatured alcohol (ethyl alcohol), which has no water. It's widely available at just about any hardware and home improvement store... even Walmart has it.

 

[jim lock]

My recipe:
100 % Lanolin--- got it online
Red bottle Heet ---- isopropyl alcohol
12oz. iso.
1 to 2 oz. lanolin
Jim