Late 50s s&w K22 shells stick

[MajorD]

Someone can correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding on a combat masterpiece that model numbering started while they were still making 5 screw guns, ( the model number then being 15) and when they deleted the screw in front of the trigger guard it became the 15-1. However I have a non model marked combat masterpiece with a 4 screw frame. So during those transition periods things can get very mixed up.
For some less popular models, it would not be unheard of for a non model marked frame to be use$ assembled and shipped without a model number well into the 1960's

 

[JP@AK]

it is my understanding on a combat masterpiece that model numbering started while they were still making 5 screw guns . . . and when they deleted the screw in front of the trigger guard it became the 15-1.

No. The top sideplate screw was eliminated in 1956. By the time model numbers showed up, they were all four screw frames.

The Model 15-1 was still a four screw unit. The dash one indicated a change in threads on the extractor rod (right to left). That was in 1959.

In 1961, the fourth screw was eliminated and the Model 15-2 came to be.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

If the erosion is ahead of the case mouth, it will not have any effect on the fired case.

Kevin

Oops. Obviously you are correct. And I cannot imagine how there would be an issue before the case mouth, although I did not actually measure where it was.

Regardless, the problem was NOT alleviated by reaming, yet WAS avoided by using ammo which may have been or clearly was lower pressure, or ammo which, at least at one time, had a thicker case mouth.

?

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

The four screw K22's are a fairly rare breed made only 1956, 57 and 58 until the model numbers started. Before that they were five screw guns. My 4 screw K22 serial # K268*** is a 1956 gun.

 

[StrawHat]

…
Regardless, the problem was NOT alleviated by reaming, yet WAS avoided by using ammo which may have been or clearly was lower pressure, or ammo which, at least at one time, had a thicker case mouth.

?

Interesting. You would think bringing the chamber to proper dimensions would prevent the cases from sticking.

Before I learned about the reamers, I had enough of the situation that I finally sold all of my rimfire revolvers.

Kevin

 

[PeteC]

...
Regardless, the problem was NOT alleviated by reaming, yet WAS avoided by using ammo which may have been or clearly was lower pressure, or ammo which, at least at one time, had a thicker case mouth.
...

I agree with that. I currently have a 17-2, a Model 41, and a CZ with a 22LR conversion kit (and a circa 1931 K-22 I recently posted about but have not shot yet). And, and...

Interesting. You would think bringing the chamber to proper dimensions would prevent the cases from sticking.
Kevin

Reaming does help (I have a friend who reams the chambers on his guns), but doing it with no regard for the ammo you will be shooting is not necessarily the correct answer if you care about where those pesky .22 LR HV rounds go after they leave your cylinder or magazine.

 

[Babysitr]

I have a 4 screw from 1958 (I think)...beautiful shooter K346470...correct me if I'm wrong about year (no letter)...regarding reaming, I bought a reamer and did all my S&W .22's.....now they're all a pleasure to shoot, for me and the kids

 

[hogblue]

I have two both five screws a masterpiece and combat masterpiece. Both had the spent case sticking issue. Sent both back to the factory and the charge holes were reamed. Problem solved. Both revolers eject cases with no issues now.

 

[Dennis2149]

I've had the same sticking problem. I was resistant to reaming/altering this fine old revolver. I now limit my use to only SK subsonic/target ammo in my 17-2 and have been very happy.

 

[ron b]

I agree with MajorD, Winchester rimfire ammo ain't worth the space it takes up !! Cci & Federal are MUCH better. I use a lot of Winchester reloading components (brass, powder, etc.) and have very good results. And their handgun ammo is ok. But I wouldn't buy ANY rimfire ammo ! Too many bad experiences with it.

 

[CAJUNLAWYER]

I have two both five screws a masterpiece and combat masterpiece. Both had the spent case sticking issue. Sent both back to the factory and the charge holes were reamed. Problem solved. Both revolers eject cases with no issues now.

How long ago did you do that? I didn't think S&W would touch a blued steel revolver.

 

[laytonj1]

The four screw K22's are a fairly rare breed made only 1956, 57 and 58 until the model numbers started. Before that they were five screw guns. My 4 screw K22 serial # K268*** is a 1956 gun.

4 screws ran up to 1961. My 4 screw model 18 no dash is K434xxx.

Jim

 

[schutz5]

Just use Federal brand semiauto target ammo.
The brass is narrower.
That resolved your same issue for my pre-war Colt OMT 22lr

 

[James K]

My K-22 may start sticking after a couple of cylinders of ammo and I sometimes use the bottom of the wooden handle of a small hammer to tap the ejector rod. I also run a .177 or .22 bore snake through the chambers when that happens and it's usually good for another 3 cylinders worth before shells start sticking again.
Agree that certain ammo works better than others. The semi-auto type does appear a little easier to eject.

 

[chief38]

One of the most common issues with S&W vintage .22 rimfire revolvers! At the end of the day, the proper, permanent and practical fix its to buy a Manson Cylinder Reamer (about $50 bucks from Brownell's) and the T handle (extra) if you don't have one that will work with their style of fitment and a small metal squeeze can of Tap Magic cutting oil.

Insert fired cases into the charge holes not being reamed at the time to keep the extractor from moving and use the Tap Magic generously to ream out each individual hole, lubricating the reamer a few times while doing so. Clean the Reamer between charge hole and re-lubricate it. Within 15 minutes you will have a rimfire revolver that no longer has sticky casings! Problem solved once and for all!

 

[Walter Rego]

In previous threads about the sticky extraction issue and the use of a finishing reamer to solve the problem, I don't remember anyone commenting that they saw reduced accuracy after the process. That is assuming that it was done correctly of course.

The problem with just trying enough brands and varieties of ammo until you find one that doesn't stick is that as most .22 rimfire shooters know, their guns are particular regarding which brands and varieties shoot the most accurately. And not only that, the next lot number of the same ammo may shoot very differently.

I guess it all depends on what your expectations are for a particular gun. But I sure wouldn't be happy with an $800+ Smith & Wesson K-22 that has sticky extraction.

 

[hogblue]

How long ago did you do that? I didn't think S&W would touch a blued steel revolver.

About three years ago

 

[STG38]

Ream It

My K-22, K324240, 4-screw was likely made in the same batch as yours (shipped June 1958, per Dr Jinks). Likely the same nearing-end-of-life reamer was used on both. I had extraction problems, too, and solved it by reaming the cylinder. No more extraction problems.

 

[Bruceboy]

Suggest you try Federal Value Pack .22 after cleaning the chambers with a brass brush. They work on all my S&W 22's like magic and are accurate.

Good luck,
Al

 

[chief38]

In previous threads about the sticky extraction issue and the use of a finishing reamer to solve the problem, I don't remember anyone commenting that they saw reduced accuracy after the process. That is assuming that it was done correctly of course.

The problem with just trying enough brands and varieties of ammo until you find one that doesn't stick is that as most .22 rimfire shooters know, their guns are particular regarding which brands and varieties shoot the most accurately. And not only that, the next lot number of the same ammo may shoot very differently.

I guess it all depends on what your expectations are for a particular gun. But I sure wouldn't be happy with an $800+ Smith & Wesson K-22 that has sticky extraction.

I have found that with Smith 22's, no mater what brand of ammo is used, eventually all brands are all a pain in the butt! There is no loss of accuracy because you are not reaming out the front of the Cylinder - just the rear, so that the bullet is still passing through the same diameter hole just in front of the casing.

A word of caution on reaming if I may.......

If you are going to ream out the cylinder charge holes on one of your coveted S&W revolvers, I'd recommend not "cheaping out" and using a reamer that has been used many times, that has been used by others you do not know, or has been dropped. A brand new one costs about $50 bucks or so (plus the handle if you don't have one) and you then KNOW for certain it's not going to damage anything. Even if you only use it one time, $50 bucks is not what I'd consider too much to insure a proper & well done reaming job. The reason I say this is I am aware there is a "Forum reamer" that goes from one person to the next and at this point who knows how good it still is. With the freight in and out what are you really saving? $30 bucks? I'd personally not risk it and just buy one brand new.

OK - just my opinion, your thoughts may differ.