rzh
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Hi folks, how do I remove heavy lead deposites from a Victory model barrel?
Lead deposit Removal
- Thread starter rzh
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scooter123
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What I am going to suggest produces lead oxide byproducts which can be rather lethal, so using rubber gloves and paying careful attention to cleaning up any materials used is ESSENTIAL. I would also advise you ignore any stray itches while you are wearing those gloves.
I'll also warn you that it's not a fast process, you can plan on 8 to 16 total hours of work to get that barrel fairly clean.
Items needed, at least 38 caliber bronze bore brushes, some pure copper Chore Boy (test it with a magnet because there are a lot of copper plated steel imitations out there), a cleaning rod, 38 caliber Jag, patches, a bore mop, and finally a bottle of Peroxide and White Vinegar.
Mix the White Vinegar and Peroxide 50/50 in a disposable containter deep enough to dip a bore brush into. Start with mopping the barrel with your cleaning mix with a soaked bore mop. Let it soak for 15 minutes to a half hours and if it shows signs of drying mop it again. Next, take that Chore Boy and unwind a bit of the copper wool. You want to put ONE wrap of the Chore Boy around a freash bore brush and force it all the way through the barrel. Take it all the way into the frame window and then pull it out of the barrel. Do this 3 to 5 times and then dispoze of that piece of Chore Boy. Mop the barrel again and let it soak some more. What you are doing this soaking period is allowing that peroxide vinegar mix convert the freshly exposed lead to lead oxide which is much easier to scrub off. Keep alternating the Chore Boy/soak process until you see that the lands and grooves are mostly clean. BTW, a LED penlight poked into the chamber end of the barrel makes it easy to see your progress, Streamlight has one called the Stylus that I carry everywhere. Once the lands and grooves are mostly clean, it's time to get the nooks and crannies using a bare bore brush in the same alternating process, however it's helpful to wet the bore brush with your mix. Finally, except the fact that the barrel doesn't have to be 100% perfectly clean, a tiny streak of lead in the recess next to the lands won't hurt anything. Once it's good enough, patch the barrel dry and then oil it well using a series of oil soaked patches until they show clean. Note, this progression of oil soaked patches should act to remove any traces of remaining vinegar peroxide, so a more is better approach is quite sensible. BTW, I like Mobil 1 synthetic because I've found it great for keeping a freshly bored engine block from rusting in the bores. IMO anything that keeps freshly machined cast iron from rusting will also keep gun barrels from rusting.
Naturally, it's a rather wet and sloppy process so you'll want to use a good layer of newspaper to soak up any drippings and dispose of them properly. You'll also want to either protect blued areas of the frame and the lockwork from any drippings as you proceed, that mixture can be mildly corrosive. Keep a roll of paper towels handy and dry off any areas that aren't leaded ASAP and drop the contaminated debris in your disposal bag. I'd also suggest that you plan on removing the lockwork for a good cleanup and re-lubrication after this process.
I'll also warn you that it's not a fast process, you can plan on 8 to 16 total hours of work to get that barrel fairly clean.
Items needed, at least 38 caliber bronze bore brushes, some pure copper Chore Boy (test it with a magnet because there are a lot of copper plated steel imitations out there), a cleaning rod, 38 caliber Jag, patches, a bore mop, and finally a bottle of Peroxide and White Vinegar.
Mix the White Vinegar and Peroxide 50/50 in a disposable containter deep enough to dip a bore brush into. Start with mopping the barrel with your cleaning mix with a soaked bore mop. Let it soak for 15 minutes to a half hours and if it shows signs of drying mop it again. Next, take that Chore Boy and unwind a bit of the copper wool. You want to put ONE wrap of the Chore Boy around a freash bore brush and force it all the way through the barrel. Take it all the way into the frame window and then pull it out of the barrel. Do this 3 to 5 times and then dispoze of that piece of Chore Boy. Mop the barrel again and let it soak some more. What you are doing this soaking period is allowing that peroxide vinegar mix convert the freshly exposed lead to lead oxide which is much easier to scrub off. Keep alternating the Chore Boy/soak process until you see that the lands and grooves are mostly clean. BTW, a LED penlight poked into the chamber end of the barrel makes it easy to see your progress, Streamlight has one called the Stylus that I carry everywhere. Once the lands and grooves are mostly clean, it's time to get the nooks and crannies using a bare bore brush in the same alternating process, however it's helpful to wet the bore brush with your mix. Finally, except the fact that the barrel doesn't have to be 100% perfectly clean, a tiny streak of lead in the recess next to the lands won't hurt anything. Once it's good enough, patch the barrel dry and then oil it well using a series of oil soaked patches until they show clean. Note, this progression of oil soaked patches should act to remove any traces of remaining vinegar peroxide, so a more is better approach is quite sensible. BTW, I like Mobil 1 synthetic because I've found it great for keeping a freshly bored engine block from rusting in the bores. IMO anything that keeps freshly machined cast iron from rusting will also keep gun barrels from rusting.
Naturally, it's a rather wet and sloppy process so you'll want to use a good layer of newspaper to soak up any drippings and dispose of them properly. You'll also want to either protect blued areas of the frame and the lockwork from any drippings as you proceed, that mixture can be mildly corrosive. Keep a roll of paper towels handy and dry off any areas that aren't leaded ASAP and drop the contaminated debris in your disposal bag. I'd also suggest that you plan on removing the lockwork for a good cleanup and re-lubrication after this process.
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TAROMAN
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Another option is a Lewis Lead Remover, from Brownell.
Personally, I have had good results using KROIL.
Apply liberally, let soak overnight, brush vigorously.
Repeat as necessary.
Personally, I have had good results using KROIL.
Apply liberally, let soak overnight, brush vigorously.
Repeat as necessary.
tomcatt51
Member
The Lewis Lead Remover certainly works but so does a bore brush wrapped with ChoreBoy until it's TIGHT in the bore. Same idea really. +1 on Kroil too but I'm not sure it's better than Ed's Red. Definitely costs more. The vinegar and peroxide is NASTY.
TAROMAN
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Good point on Ed's Red. I tend to neglect it as its in a gallon jug under my bench. AFAIK, it and Kroil may be nearly the same thing.
Frank46
US Veteran
There are cloths that do remove leading. Cannot remember the name (CRS) but what I usually do is cut a strip and wind it around a stiff bore brush and whatever leading I had is usually gone in a few minutes. But do not use it on blued guns as it will remove the bluing. Wipe away may be the name. Any good gun shop should have them or know the name. The lewis lead remover is also good for removing lead in a barrel. The hydrogen peroxide and vinegar would be my last choice
due its toxicity. try some 00 or 000 steel wool wrapped around a stiff bore brush it should work just as well. Run the bore brush in by hand, do not use a drill as it will ruin your bbl in short order. Just think a wire brush rotating at about 1700 rpm's . Frank
due its toxicity. try some 00 or 000 steel wool wrapped around a stiff bore brush it should work just as well. Run the bore brush in by hand, do not use a drill as it will ruin your bbl in short order. Just think a wire brush rotating at about 1700 rpm's . Frank
Iowahunter
Member
I use bronze wool wrapped around a bore brush. You can get it most hardware or paint stores. I get mine at Ace Hardware. Seems to work better on a dry bore, then oil the bore later
Beans
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+1 on the 0000 steel wool and a BRONZE brush
tomcatt51
Member
You only use the drill motor on the chambers.
Chore Boy is coarser and scrapes the lead out better.
I have to cast my vote for the Chore Boy method also. It works well regardless of the solvent used (Gunzilla, Hoppes, etc.).
Run a soppy patch thru, let it soak a while, then scub the lead out with the Chore Boy brush. Comes right out.
Run a soppy patch thru, let it soak a while, then scub the lead out with the Chore Boy brush. Comes right out.
Jeff423
US Veteran
Electronic lead removal
I found an Outers Foul Out II electronic bore cleaner in a scrap bin at a gun shop for $4.95. I got some of their lead removing solution at Midway and used a coat hanger (with paint removed) as the electrode. I was amazed at how much lead it removed from what I thought was a fairly clean bore.
I don't think I'd pay $100 for one but for $4.95 it was well worth it.
Jeff
I found an Outers Foul Out II electronic bore cleaner in a scrap bin at a gun shop for $4.95. I got some of their lead removing solution at Midway and used a coat hanger (with paint removed) as the electrode. I was amazed at how much lead it removed from what I thought was a fairly clean bore.
I don't think I'd pay $100 for one but for $4.95 it was well worth it.
Jeff
