lead deposits

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I have been using shooters choice lead remover which seems
very SLOW to me.................
and also have some Flitz which works but I take it real easy
on the rubbing, since I do not know if it will in the long run
damage the stainless cylinder?

Any thing out there that might be faster or better than
shooters choice in removing the lead for me? Just seems
to take a lot of elbow grease and waiting for things to happen.
 
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I use mag wheel polish on stainless cylinder faces which works better than the lead away cloths.I don't worry about removing any measurable amount of steel doing it by hand with a rag.
 
Many years ago when I shot lead bullets, I hated it. I didn't know much about shooting lead and wound up with lots of lead in the barrel. I used my normal powder solvent, brushes, Lewis Lead Remover, and still took forever to get the barrel clean.

I have learned a lot more about lead now and most of my guns don't get any significant leading. But while I am working up a load, sometimes I will get some lead. It now is very easy to remove. Here are my steps:

- As soon as I get home I coat the barrel bore and cylinder with Ed's Red. You could use Kroil if you don't make your own bore cleaner. It is about the same thing.
- Let the Ed's Red soak at least over night. I usually let it sit for 24 hours. The reason is because it will work its way under any lead deposits and make them much easier to remove.
- After the 24 hour soak for the barrel I take a pure copper Chore Boy pad and unravel a thread. I wrap it around a worn bore brush. After a few passes through the barrel you will have literally chunks of lead flake lying on cleaning bench. The barrel will be 95% clean now. For the forcing cone, I use the Lewis lead remover with the FC adapter. It is the solid aluminum one. A couple of turns and the FC is now perfectly clean. If I happen to have any minor specs of lead remaining in the bore, I use some JB Bore Cleaning compound on a patch. All that is left is a shiny bore with NO lead.
- for the cylinder I use an double tuff bore brush link. I rotate them slowly soaked in Ed's Red. They cut most of the carbon ring and lead from the throat. These are very tough brushes and will work best with a rotation method rather than a back and forth.
- Then I take the Lewis Lead remover adapter for barrels (the one with the rubber and knurled nut) and with it adjusted to a larger size rotate it in the restriction portion of the throat.

In just a few minutes of cleaning, your revolver is perfectly clean from lead. You do know to remove all the copper from shooting jacketed bullets BEFORE shooting lead, right? This is a very important step.

For the donuts on the front of the cylinder, I don't try to remove the flash burns. I do remove all the carbon but I shoot my guns too much to worry about normal shooting. If it was a safe queen and not to be shot, I would take the time to clean to bare metal on the cylinder front.
 
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Are you using a liquid cleaner (Shooter's Choice) or are you using a lead-away cloth?

The lead-away cloth is sold by a number of companies, most gun shops will have at least one brand.

These are a heavy waxy feeling cloth that literally wipes leading and carbon off the cylinder face by just rubbing it.
DO NOT USE on a blued gun, it also just wipes bluing right off, and I'd be careful about using it much on a nickel gun.
 
I've had more trouble getting all the copper fouling out of a barrel, than I ever had removing all the lead fouling.
The Lewis Lead Remover would pull out strips of lead, just like grated cheese.

If it's a stainless steel gun, you can make a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and household hydrogen peroxide. Put on rubber gloves. Plug off the back of the barrel and fill it with the mix. Stand the gun up and let it sit, muzzle up, for 5 minutes or so. Dump out the stuff from the barrel.
Clean as usual.
Be careful with the lead acetate that you dump out of the barrel. Don't drink it, yada, yada.
 
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