Lead In Chamber

[otisrush]

I have a 14-2 that has seen some use. I got it from my Dad. Not sure how much he shot it. I've loaded and shot some 158gr LSWC reloads out of it.

Some of my reloads weren't fitting and today I dug into the issue. (Sometimes rounds would protrude from the back of the cylinder 1/8" or so.) I figured my dies were off - so I set them up from scratch and loaded up some dummy rounds. It turns out they wouldn't fit in one particular chamber - none of them would.

I put in my borescope and find what I presume is a ridge of lead. (Pic attached.)

I used some J&B Bore Paste on it and it helped. (Rounds seem to fit now.) But the ridge is still there. I figure I knocked it down a bit. I'd like to get it more cleaned out.

Right now some Kroil is soaking on it. What would folks do? Proceed with Kroil and a brush? Or do the brush/Choreboy treatment?

Any input would be most appreciated.

Thanks!

OR

 

[moosedog]

A normal bronze cleaning brush should take that out but it's odd that it has occurred in only one chamber.

 

[Neal]

What would I do? I would get out my Lewis Lead Remover and try to clean it out. Apparently Hoppes makes a similar kit.

 

[DR505]

I’ve used the Hoppes kit and the chore boy method. Both will work fine.

 

[gwpercle]

The Kroil will not dissolve the lead ... it's a penetrating oil . It will creep under the lead , a little but it needs the help of a brand new brass/bronze bore brush and some good old fashioned elbow grease .
After scrubbing clean with bore brush and Kroil wrap a cloth patch or 0000 steel wool around the brush and smear with JB Bore cleaner , then give the chamber a final polishing .
While you have all the stuff out ... I would clean all the chambers and the bore .
Be careful of some " Lead Solvents" they will also remove a blue finish . Use Plenty of Kroil , bore brush , 0000 steel wool and JB Bore Paste with a Bit-o-Elbow grease and you will be fine .
Hint ...clean after every range trip and avoid problems .
Gary

 

[mikerjf]

You can get steel brushes specifically sized for chambers (as opposed to the bore). I had to put one in a drill and eventually got most problem lead out of an auto chamber.

The Chore boy thing works pretty well too. Be sure you get the pure (edit)copper kind. Walmart is one possible source.

 

[just plain joe]

I've experienced the same, albeit when I shot .38 Special full wad-cutters in a revolver chambered for the .357 Magnum cartridge. When I attempted to place the .357 cartridge into the cylinder, the front of the cartridge (mouth) encountered the lead build-up from the shorter .38 Special cartridge. Fortunately, it only necessitated me giving the cartridge a gentle "push" to fully seat it.

Don't worry, this is not a show-stopper. As previously mentioned, use a tight bore-brush. If this does not work sufficiently, I then try my Lewis lead remover. If you don't have one, try (copper) Chore-Boy wrapped around your bristle brush. If there is still lead residue left I then use JB Bore Compound which is mildly abrasive.

HTH.

JPJ

 

[gnystrom]

All the above but I have good results chucking my old brusn in my drill and run it at very low speed.
Whether I use a piece of copper chore boy or JB Bore cleaner on a patch wrapped around that old brush, both work well.

 

[H Richard]

I will 2nd the Chor-Boy copper wrapped around a bronze brush, with Hoppe's. The edges of the Chor-Boy scrape the lead out, without any damage to the chamber. Just be sure you get the "all copper" chor-Boy.

 

[FlyFish]

Another vote for all-copper Chore Boy. Although I've never had to use it on a chamber, I've easily removed leading from barrels with it many times with complete success - I would think it would be even easier to use it to clean a chamber.

 

[otisrush]

Thanks very much all.

I haven't looked inside the other chambers. I may have issues in them that just haven't manifested yet to causing a physical problem with rounds fitting. I'll give 'em a look.

I pulled a muscle in my back yesterday and one of the things that *doesn't* hurt for me to do is stuff at the bench. Perfect timing!

Thanks again all.

OR

 

[DR505]

I have never liked to use steel wool or brushes on my Smiths in case any of that is left behind and promotes rust, or the steel might be too hard and scratch something I don’t want scratched. I will stick with the Chore Boy or bronze brushes.

 

[chief38]

LEWIS LEAD REMOVER - BROWNELL'S

 

[Pine_Worker]

I had a Remington 870 ex-police shotgun with terrible barrel leading, looks like it was never cleaned. I used Shooters Choice lead remover with copper wool wrapped around a bronze bore brush chucked in an electric drill. Took about two hours but the bore now looks like new.

 

[otisrush]

For grins I'll post where this project started and where it is now.

The "ridge" of lead in the original photo came out very easily after letting Kroil sit on it overnight. But per an earlier point - there was leading in all the chambers.

I didn't have any of the well-known lead removers. But I use Boretek Eliminator in many of my guns. It does say it will get out lead.

Although I have to let it sit for a while (8 hours or so) it is getting it out. It's taking elbow grease and time, but it's getting cleaned out. Hopefully one or two more rounds with Eliminator and it will be done.

 

[Sam McCord]

Looks like you're getting it.

I've been enjoying the extra time to tackle some cleaning jobs in the gun safe too. My firearms have never had it so good! All clean at the same time. Now to dirty them back up again!

 

[LoboGunLeather]

My usual routine is to use a good bronze bore brush, used dry as a first step in the cleaning process to cut through and remove leading or heavy powder crud.

On really bad examples (including a few guns that came to me in used and poorly maintained condition) I have used an old bore brush wrapped with strands of 0000-grade steel wool. For those who cringe at such a thought, I will point out that steel wool is much softer than any steel used in firearms manufacture and will cut through leading and powder residue without damaging the firearm or even affecting the bluing or plated finishes.

I remember one extreme example of neglect. Cylinder would not turn freely due to leading and residue on the cylinder face and breach face of the barrel. Ammo would not chamber due to heavy deposits in the cylinder chambers. I chucked a section of cleaning rod into a drill, wrapped an old bore brush with 0000-steel wool, and took care of the necessary business in a few minutes. Following a good normal cleaning afterward that old Model 1917 US Army functioned like a brand new revolver and looked very good. I got the revolver for next to nothing because the owner thought it was trashed, but it was actually in fine condition although seriously neglected for years.

Solvents are for powder residue. Leading requires a method that can physically remove it, either by cutting through it or abrading it away. 0000-grade steel wool will do the job, but some use the Lewis Lead Remover (brass screen cloth) or Chore Boy (brass wool). I was taught to use the 0000 steel wool at a US Army post armory, Fort Benning, GA while on a temporary assignment, spent several weeks cleaning hundreds of rifles, pistols, and machineguns (Western and Eastern bloc issue) used in training and familiarization courses for both US and allied forces. Anything that will clean a 12.7mm Russian heavy machinegun after a few thousand rounds of commie ammo will make short work of a little leading and powder crust in a revolver.

 

[stansdds]

If a new bronze bore brush won't do the job, then it's time for the Lewis lead remover. If you don't have a Lewis lead remover, then strands of pure copper Chore Boy pot scrubber (not the copper plated steel stuff in knock-off brands) wrapped around a bronze bore brush will do the job.

 

[Neal]

If someone is not familiar with the Lewis Lead Remover, here is a short test article with some pics. I have had one each for 38/367 and 44/45 for decades. Very worthwhile if you shoot lead bullets.

Time To Get the Lead Out! The Lewis Lead Remover

 

[R*E]

I’ve trimmed rifle brass into a scraping tool. Works really well with lead rings in cylinders.