Lead Removal Cloth Abrasive?

[gr7070]

Are lead removal cloths considered abrasive? I know they'll remove blueing, but not sure if that's from abrasion or chemically.

Per the S&W manual:

"...under NO circumstances should the cylinderʼs chambers (charge holes) or front face be cleaned with an abrasive material such as sand paper, Scotch Brite™, Crocus Cloth, etc."

Would a lead removal cloth be OK to use on the cylinder front face to remove the rings that are left there?

 

[n4zov]

I don't know about all lead cleaning cloths, but the Hoppe's Lead Removal
Cloth claims to be non-abrasive and safe for blue and nickel finishes according to their website.

 

[snowman]

Are lead removal cloths considered abrasive? I know they'll remove blueing, but not sure if that's from abrasion or chemically.

Would a lead removal cloth be OK to use on the cylinder front face to remove the rings that are left there?

Typically that is how they are used, and I used to use them for that. But later I found out that they are indeed somewhat abrasive(hard to imagine, though), and eventually will round off the edge of the front end of the chambers and adversely affect accuracy. I'm just repeating what a few gunsmiths on the forum have said, so I don't have proof of that from my own experience(and that is an experience I can do without). The main reason I've quit using them is that it takes too much time to rub the rings off with them, so I just get as much off with a brush as I can and leave it at that.

Andy



P.S. I've no experience with the Hoppe's cloth mentioned above, so I can't comment on them.

 

[ms]

Yes, they are abrasive. A long time ago when I shot IHMSA I heard of cases where people had to send their Freedom Arms revolvers back to the factory for repairs due to rounding the chamber mouths this way.

I also found that they will polish the sandblasted finish from the edges of the topstrap of a 629.

 

[Wayne M]

I've been cleaning lead and carbon fouling from the face of the cylinders on stainless revolvers for about....oh....30 years with them. Nice and clean, no "dishing", no metal removal, superb accuracy still there.

As a side note: have been shooting a 686-4 snub that somebody DID get carried away on the cylinder face and DID dish the charge holes slightly, looks like a high speed buffing wheel. It's a one ragged holer at 25 yards just like it's cylinder perfect brothers. Originally bought it with the idea of a project gun(just because of the light dishing) but it shoots so well I don't want to change it.

 

[DonD]

Typically that is how they are used, and I used to use them for that. But later I found out that they are indeed somewhat abrasive(hard to imagine, though), and eventually will round off the edge of the front end of the chambers and adversely affect accuracy. I'm just repeating what a few gunsmiths on the forum have said, so I don't have proof of that from my own experience(and that is an experience I can do without). The main reason I've quit using them is that it takes too much time to rub the rings off with them, so I just get as much off with a brush as I can and leave it at that.

Andy

P.S. I've no experience with the Hoppe's cloth mentioned above, so I can't comment on them.

All I will say is that I called the manufacturer and mentioned that some internet threads suggested that the cloth was abrasive enough to affect the barrel/cylinder gap. The tech just laughed and said absolutely not. Some may just say that the guy is defending his company's product. I tend to believe what he said.

Having said that, I'm paranoid about taking care of my guns and am willing to leave the powder burn marks on the front of the cylinder of my stainless S&Ws. I just use the cloth to clean the inside of the frame and let it go at that. Don

 

[Pisgah]

It's ultra-fine, but those cloths are treated with an abrasive. They'll remove bluing if applied too vigorously, but I hinestly don't believe a human hand and arm will last long enough for a person to measurably affect a chamber mouth with one. I have heard it claimed, but I have never seen an example of it, while I HAVE seen guns with the bluing thinned by the cloths.

 

[firearmsunlimited]

I have personally seen the bluing on a cylinder face be extremely thinned by using a Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth. I also know of one gunsmith that has used pieces of the cloth to finish up his bore lapping. The material impregnated into the cloth is abrasive. If it wasn't it wouldn't remove leading. Stick with the liquid lead remover.

 

[Ed333]

cleaner

I use M-Pro 7 gun cleaner and a toothbrush on the face of my cylinders, seems to do the trick just fine.

 

[ms]

Who said it alters the b/c gap?

All I will say is that I called the manufacturer and mentioned that some internet threads suggested that the cloth was abrasive enough to affect the barrel/cylinder gap. The tech just laughed and said absolutely not. Some may just say that the guy is defending his company's product. I tend to believe what he said. Don

Rounding the edges doesn't significantly alter the gap. Done by hand, with an abrasive cloth, it makes the exit irregular.

You need to remember that one of the FA revolvers damaged this way is very likely still more accurate than 99.9% of the S&W revolvers. If your revolver isn't capable of routinely shooting around 1 moa, you probably won't notice the effects of the damage.

 

[kbm6893]

I use M-Pro 7 gun cleaner and a toothbrush on the face of my cylinders, seems to do the trick just fine.

I know M Pro claims that, but I have used it, and it lightned the lead, but never got it off. I use a Hoppes cloth. Takes it off in less than a minute.

 

[Rolan_Kraps]

First, I only own Stainless revolvers. Mainly because I find them easier to clean.

Here is what I use.


Miracle All Purpose Polishing Cloth
This is the stuff that takes the burn rings off the face of the cylinder. I cut off a strip of it and use a brass brush to polish it off.

Widget Supply Miracle All Purpose Polishing Cloth

Before:

After:

 

[k22fan]

Gentlemen,

I use an inexpensive and much better but apparently not obvious alternative, brass wool. To clean stainless revolvers there is no need to ever use any product that is designed to change the surface appearane of metal. Metal polish and abbrasives reduce the value of stainless S&W revolvers, at least if you ever want to sell them to me. Other members use Copper Chore Boys which are too coarse for my taste but also wouldn't change the surface appearance of stainless steel. Just be sure to take a magnet shopping for dish scrubbers to be certain they aren't copper covered steel. Brass wool quickly removes lead and the burnt rings off the front of stainless cylinders. I prefer fine but True value Hardware has it in their warehouse in fine, medium and coarse. It's also sold by Brownell's and in yachting supply stores near large marinas.

Just like original wood stocks which went unappreciated for decades, inevitably collectors will be paying more for stainless revolver with their original finish intact. I already do.

Best Regards,
Gil