Lead Removal

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Finn McCool

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I have done a search and read about how others get the lead out of their barrels. I have two questions. What's a chore boy? Where does one get one? (Okay three questions) I have soaked a patches with Hoppes 9 or Shooter Choice Lead Remover and let it sit in the barrel for a few minutes before scrubbing. Can this practice harm the barrel? I haven't found that Shooter's Choice Lead Remover really works. Hoppes seems to work better. Thanks for the help.
 
It really depends on the amount of shooting you do with lead bullets. What you're doing now is fine and won't harm you're gun. If you get into serious leading problems then the Lewis lead remover kit is what you need to check out. A bit costly up front but does a great job in short order.
 
KROIL soak, followed by brushing with a bronze brush wrapped in shards of Chore Boy. Insist on the original. Its copper, imitations are not.
 
I prefer bronze wool wrapped around a copper bore brush, used occasionally while shooting before leading becomes a problem.

Insert the brush threaded end first into the forcing cone. Run the rod down the barrel and screw it onto the brush. Pull back and forth a few times and you are in business.
 
Chore boy

wrap a few stands around a bore brush and it scrapes out the lead. Much less expensive than Lewis lead removal especially if you shoot a lot of calibers.

Find them in the Kitchen isle of your store.
 
yup. Ive used that vinegar peroxide mix in a few desperate cases. Its astonishing, However, understand that the chemistry is not far off from a method used by electronics hobbyists to etch circuit boards. its very aggressive. So much so I believe it could dissolve a lodged bullet out of a bore. keep an eye on it if you ever use it
 
I have used the peroxide,white vinegar mix (50/50) for many years with great success. I only use it on stainless guns. I have shot 5-600 rds of lead before cleaning completely and the carbon and lead buildup is terrible but I soak the cyl. and bore in this mix (10 minutes) and it pretty much wipes off. It also seems to help if the mixture is fresh so I buy it in small amounts when I need it. I have read where some people believe it could do damage to the gun, and I'm no metallurgist so I'm not going to debate it w/them. I have a 686 that has been done 40-50 times and see no ill effects, and will continue to do it.
 
With the correct size, hardness, lube and barrel prep you really should not have to clean much lead out of your barrel. Try the cast bullit forum for a lot of tips. All of these things are critical, but one that is over looked the most is matching hardness to the pressure and not velocity. Velocity can vary greatly with the same pressure. You can read more about it starting with the Lee manual. If you are buying store bought bullets with hard lube and have no idea what hardness they are you can tumble lube them with Alox and reduce leading some. But for no leading and top accuracy all the former things mentioned must be applied.
 
krehmkej said:
KROIL soak, followed by brushing with a bronze brush wrapped in shards of Chore Boy. Insist on the original. Its copper, imitations are not.
Click to expand...

I don't even use the Chore Boy. A patch soaked with Kroil left in the bore overnight and a regular bronze brush.

Kroil = Magic! :D
 
I agree, let your solvent soak much longer than a few minutes. Lead and Copper solvents work by getting under the metal between it and the barrel. Sometimes that takes a while to happen and most definitely more than a few minutes.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like it is okay to let solvents soak over night. I was worried that solvents that can dissolve copper may damage my barrel.

Shortrange: I appreciate your advice. What your talking about is my "next level" of reloading and shooting. I haven't measured my cylinder throats or slugged my bore. I am still fairly new to reloading but I love my new hobby. I have some accurate loads with Rim Rock LSWC that are about 12 BHN, I think. I do get some leading, but I have been playing around with lots of different charges, seeing whats accurate and what leads up my guns. I appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks.
 
Finn McCool said:
Thanks for all the feedback. It sounds like it is okay to let solvents soak over night. I was worried that solvents that can dissolve copper may damage my barrel.
Click to expand...

Depends on the barrel & the solvent. I don't like to leave solvents on my blued guns overnight. Some of the more aggressive solvents can actually etch metal.

Kroil is a penetrating oil (it "Kreeps!" ;)) and to my knowlege harmless to metal.
 
The simplest, fastest and most efficient way for me has been the LEWIS LEAD REMOVER. A fantastic tool that every serious revolver shooter should own.

Chief38
 
Finn,
If you're getting leading from a 12 BHN bullet you might be doing something a little off. What powder are you using? What charge weight of that powder?

Sometimes pushing a bullet too slow can cause as much leading as pushing it too fast. (but with a 12 BHN bullet that's not usual) With a 12 BHN bullet you should be able to push them to at least 900 fps and more. (although pressure counts more than velocity)
 
I just started using lead, haven't shot a lot of it yet, what exactly am I looking for when looking for a 'leading problem'? Just started reloading for the wife's .38 spl and 9mm. Are there those who have figured out how to avoid leading completely? Is it just part of the 'game'?
 
Jamie said:
I just started using lead, haven't shot a lot of it yet, what exactly am I looking for when looking for a 'leading problem'? Just started reloading for the wife's .38 spl and 9mm. Are there those who have figured out how to avoid leading completely? Is it just part of the 'game'?
Click to expand...

you'll know a leading problem with a quick look down the bore. when it looks like its trying to become a smooth bore, you have a heavy leading problem.
as to completely avoiding it ... you can come pretty close.
you might have a load you can shoot a few thousand of, run a patch through it and only find powder and lube sludge. Same load different day, possible due to a slug that slipped QC, and the groove filling starts.
 
ArchAngelCD, Two of my favorite loads are 158 gr LSWC behind 6 gr. of Unique or 12 gr. of 2400. I don't have a chronograph, but I'm betting the 2400 load is going a a bit faster than 900 fps. Most of my leading occurs in my 586 with a 6 inch barrel, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch out from the forcing cone.
 
Finn McCool said:
ArchAngelCD, Two of my favorite loads are 158 gr LSWC behind 6 gr. of Unique or 12 gr. of 2400. I don't have a chronograph, but I'm betting the 2400 load is going a a bit faster than 900 fps. Most of my leading occurs in my 586 with a 6 inch barrel, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch out from the forcing cone.
Click to expand...

I "gather" you are talking about 357 Mag loads, yes?

The 12 grains of 2400 is start load for that bullet per Lyman cast manual.(using Linotype lead, very hard) A BHN of 12 is kinda soft for Magnum loads. I use 12 BHN in 38 special target loads or lower velocity 357 , 45 ACP etc loads. A BHN of 16-18 (harder is a bit better for Magnum loads. Some will say hardness doesn't matter but I disagree. If the bullet is soft and you have a hot powder it melts some of the lead and you get leading, that's why folks talk about slugging and measuring chamber, bores etc. I have never done any of my guns and do not get leading. Fit is of course important but if use the correct hardness and powder/velocity you will not have a problem. Some use gas checked bullets.

I get bullets from Missouri Bullets. The bullet casters out there that make their own bullets know more about the whole science of hardness, fit etc.

"Believe it or not";)

Missouri Bullet Company
 
Rule,
Did you run any of those boolits I sent you in magnum loads?

I don't think any of them are 16-18BHN. Did they lead you barrel?

Just curious and well, really, I need to know! ;)
 
Rule3- Yes 357 magnum is what I'm shooting. I have heard that 12 BHN is fine for much higher velocities, but I'm ready to give some harder bullets a shot. Thanks
 
Has anyone shot Precision Bullets or Black Bullet International? They are coated with a black moly coating, supposedly eliminates most if not all leading. Precision offers 9mm, 40 cal and 45. No 38 special? I tried to get some info off of Black Bullet International, none that I could find on the order site, their main site is being redone, moving their facilities.
 
Yes, I have shot both the Precision and Black Bullets Itnl. These are fine bullets that have worked well for me in 9mm and 45ACP. Load like lead and you're good to go. I have a feeling that BBI may be gone for good, that site's not been available for a few months now and he hasn't responded to messages sent to the email address he provided.

I've pretty much decided to buy Precision exclusively after my existing stock is depleted.
 
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