I would like to add a 45 acp to my collection of handguns. I've been reloading 38 special for about 5 years and have learned a good deal about reloading ( but certainly still a novice ). I'm convinced that I will need to learn to reload for the 45 in order to shoot enough to be confident to carry it. Any information /feedback about what the challenges are to learning to reload this new( for me) round would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and expertise.
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Learning to reload 45 acp.
- Thread starter Zackary
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The 45 is an easy one to load, either get a case gauge, or use your barrel to get everything set up.
Only difference is using a taper crimp instead of a roll crimp like on the 38.
Load a few to make sure they function in your gun.
You don't want a whole bunch, only to fine they won't work.
Only difference is using a taper crimp instead of a roll crimp like on the 38.
Load a few to make sure they function in your gun.
You don't want a whole bunch, only to fine they won't work.
Reloading
Reloading the .45 ACP is straight forward with no hidden traps or pitfalls that I'm aware of. Today, most reloaders are using plated or coated bullets for target shooting to eliminate leading. Both types are available from the many bullet suppliers such as Rainier or Missouri Bullets. There are many others.
I take the additional precaution of using a primer pocket uniformer to insure proper and consistent primer seating. I started this relatively recently although I've been reloading since the 1960s.
Some guns may be sensitive to semi wadcutters. As I'm not a competitive shooter, I generally avoid semi-wadcutters. I bit of gunsmithing may be necessary to insure reliable feeding of these bullets.
An additional problem in recovering range brass is that the .45 ACP is now available with both large and small primer pockets. These have to be segregated before running them through the press. Many guys discard the small primer variety. I'm saving mine up until I have enough to justify converting the primer feed on my Dillon press.
Reloading the .45 ACP is straight forward with no hidden traps or pitfalls that I'm aware of. Today, most reloaders are using plated or coated bullets for target shooting to eliminate leading. Both types are available from the many bullet suppliers such as Rainier or Missouri Bullets. There are many others.
I take the additional precaution of using a primer pocket uniformer to insure proper and consistent primer seating. I started this relatively recently although I've been reloading since the 1960s.
Some guns may be sensitive to semi wadcutters. As I'm not a competitive shooter, I generally avoid semi-wadcutters. I bit of gunsmithing may be necessary to insure reliable feeding of these bullets.
An additional problem in recovering range brass is that the .45 ACP is now available with both large and small primer pockets. These have to be segregated before running them through the press. Many guys discard the small primer variety. I'm saving mine up until I have enough to justify converting the primer feed on my Dillon press.
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joeintexas
US Veteran
I think you'll find 45acp to be fun to load and fairly forgiving as long as you dot the I's and cross the t's which you've been doing already with the 38s. Lots of different powders will work fine for 45s. I load several but my favorite is probably Bullseye 5.0 with a 230gr bullet. My guns like 1.26 OAL. Good luck and have fun with it. Lots of very knowledgeable reloaders on this board and they are always willing to help.
Geo. T.
Member
My 2 Cents!
It's an easy round to load. The overall length is important to insure they will feed in the magazine. A slight taper crimp is required. The 200 grain SWC is the go to bullet for practice.
I was a CHL instructor for years and in Texas DPS cautioned a against having hand loads in your carry gun. It was addressed as a issue if you ended up in court!
It's an easy round to load. The overall length is important to insure they will feed in the magazine. A slight taper crimp is required. The 200 grain SWC is the go to bullet for practice.
I was a CHL instructor for years and in Texas DPS cautioned a against having hand loads in your carry gun. It was addressed as a issue if you ended up in court!
venomballistics
Member
About the only glitch with loading for autos is that in some cases, seating and crimping requirements can fight with each other.
If you run into ammo that won't chamber right no matter how you adjust the die, stop trying.
Just back the die off so it won't crimp, and just seat to depth.
Pull the seating plug out and run the die back down for the crimp.
Separating the functions like this are sometimes necessary.
That one minor detail aside, you should already know enough to keep yourself out of trouble ..... or in trouble, depending on how you want to look at it.
If you run into ammo that won't chamber right no matter how you adjust the die, stop trying.
Just back the die off so it won't crimp, and just seat to depth.
Pull the seating plug out and run the die back down for the crimp.
Separating the functions like this are sometimes necessary.
That one minor detail aside, you should already know enough to keep yourself out of trouble ..... or in trouble, depending on how you want to look at it.
This is smart......
There are some important differences. On a semi auto:
The cartridge head spaces on the mouth of the case instead of the rim (rimless).
The crimp is tapered instead of rolled. Usually just enough to take the flare off the mouth. Crimp too much and you have problems with head space (see above)
.45 isn't a high pressure cartridge so this is not as important as with 9mm, .40 cal and 10s etc. but seating depth is more important than in .38s. Some pistols function better with a certain O.A.L. and seating too deeply can cause over pressure.
Semis can also be picky about profiles of bullets used. RN is usually the most reliable. My Kahr 9mm hates SWC bullets.
It's easy to use the barrel for a plunk test gauge to make sure the cartridges plunk right in to the right depth and fall out easily.
Sometimes bullet not seated deep enough can hit the rifling and keep the cartridge from going into the chamber all the way. So besides plunking, visually examine that the head of the case doesn't protrude out too far.
There are some important differences. On a semi auto:
The cartridge head spaces on the mouth of the case instead of the rim (rimless).
The crimp is tapered instead of rolled. Usually just enough to take the flare off the mouth. Crimp too much and you have problems with head space (see above)
.45 isn't a high pressure cartridge so this is not as important as with 9mm, .40 cal and 10s etc. but seating depth is more important than in .38s. Some pistols function better with a certain O.A.L. and seating too deeply can cause over pressure.
Semis can also be picky about profiles of bullets used. RN is usually the most reliable. My Kahr 9mm hates SWC bullets.
It's easy to use the barrel for a plunk test gauge to make sure the cartridges plunk right in to the right depth and fall out easily.
Sometimes bullet not seated deep enough can hit the rifling and keep the cartridge from going into the chamber all the way. So besides plunking, visually examine that the head of the case doesn't protrude out too far.
robert1804
Member
I'm also learning to load .45 auto, as well as 9mm. I had one minor problem loading 185gr jacketed Noslers, they were very slightly non-concentric when seated. Turns out the minimal flare I used was not enough. Increasing the flare just a little allowed the bullets to seat evenly. Use enough flare to let the bullet easily go about 1/32" into the case before seating.
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J. R. WEEMS
Member
Have heard this for just years, but have never seen any proof that it ever became an issue- never-- however, I don't want to be the first example----
fixitfred
Member
I agree, I think it's bogus but why take a chance on something that's preventable. I even finally scheduled my colonoscopy. It may cost me a couple of hundred bucks more but the last lawyer I hired cost $300 an hour.Have heard this for just years, but have never seen any proof that it ever became an issue- never-- however, I don't want to be the first example----
+1;
on post #7.........
For best results I would agree with the RN lead, coated or copper bullets for your first try,
since they feed the best of all bullets and cause less problems and jams, for the beginner.
The OAL listed in data is fool proof after all the years of testing.
Bell the case to load the bullet, crimp enough tor remove the belling, for phase #1.
More crimp is optional.................
The 45auto ammo goes into the chamber until the case mouth
stops its forward movement, when it hits where the chamber has been milled out, for it.
This is at location "A".
This also will reflect the correct headspace if the case is +/- case specs.
A case too long or short can cause loading problems.......
as well as bullets that are loaded too long and in some cases, to short.
If the case is crimped too much, it may bypass "A" and move into the barrel area, which is also a major loading error.
Hope this picture helps.
Good loading.
I would give spec numbers but each weapon is different and your chamber and headspace could
be over or under normal spec's or even dead on. Look up the old "Plunk test".
oh heck, I have nothing better to do..........
on post #7.........
For best results I would agree with the RN lead, coated or copper bullets for your first try,
since they feed the best of all bullets and cause less problems and jams, for the beginner.
The OAL listed in data is fool proof after all the years of testing.
Bell the case to load the bullet, crimp enough tor remove the belling, for phase #1.
More crimp is optional.................
The 45auto ammo goes into the chamber until the case mouth
stops its forward movement, when it hits where the chamber has been milled out, for it.
This is at location "A".
This also will reflect the correct headspace if the case is +/- case specs.
A case too long or short can cause loading problems.......
as well as bullets that are loaded too long and in some cases, to short.
If the case is crimped too much, it may bypass "A" and move into the barrel area, which is also a major loading error.
Hope this picture helps.
Good loading.
I would give spec numbers but each weapon is different and your chamber and headspace could
be over or under normal spec's or even dead on. Look up the old "Plunk test".
oh heck, I have nothing better to do..........
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LostintheOzone
US Veteran
1) Don't start with lead bullets, use FMJ.
2) Seat and crimp in a separate operation.
3) Get a Lee Factory Crimp die. Some will say you don't need it, you may not. I found my finished round is more consistant using one.
2) Seat and crimp in a separate operation.
3) Get a Lee Factory Crimp die. Some will say you don't need it, you may not. I found my finished round is more consistant using one.
I load 4.2 grains of Bullseye pushing a 200 grain Xtreme PSWC for a good target load. One bit of advise I can give, get yourself a gauge from Dillon to check the circumference and length of each round after loading. I have one for each semi-auto caliber I load. You can avoid a lot of malfunctions by taking a second to gauge each round.
hdwhit
Member
Here's a link to the legal forum on another site. Note that the use of handloads HAS been a factor in some litigation. More importantly, the fact handloads WERE NOT used in other cases meant that expert testimony as to the performance of the factory ammunition WAS admitted by the court - such evidence would not have been available to the defense if handloads had been used.
Carrying Handloads, yes or no? | Page 2 | The High Road
cowboy4evr
Member
I reload the 45 acp , have 2 semi auto 's . A S&W MP 45 and a Sig 1911 45acp . I reload and shoot cast bullets in both , that I cast myself using the Lee TL-452-230 2R .
As far as the measurement , after checking in several manuals I decided that 1.25 should work , which is 1 1/4" . I used a tape measure , adjusted the bullet seating die to an 1 1/4" and have had zero problems . I did make sure the feed ramps were highly polished before shooting them the first time . To each his own !
As far as the measurement , after checking in several manuals I decided that 1.25 should work , which is 1 1/4" . I used a tape measure , adjusted the bullet seating die to an 1 1/4" and have had zero problems . I did make sure the feed ramps were highly polished before shooting them the first time . To each his own !
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I'd have to go with a 200gr swc h&g#68/69 or a clone/copy of that bullet. They are about the easiest bullet to reload in the 45acp.
A couple myths/swc 45acp feeding issues:
The magazine being used plays a huge difference. 3 different styles of 1911 mags. The usgi feed lips on the mag on the left are lllloooooonnnnngggg. The hybrid & wc mag lips are shorter for a earlier round release needed for the shorter jacketed hp's and the lead short nosed swc's.
Enter the h&g #68, it was designed to mimic the usgi hardball bullet profile and feed at the same place on the nose while maintaining the same shoulder height from the base of the bullet.
What makes the h&g68 easier to load is the reloader can clearly/easily see the shoulder line of the bullet. Some h&g #68's loaded, you can clearly see the shoulder of the bullet sticking above the top of the case.
What's happening is this. As others have already stated, the 45acp head spaces on the mouth of the case. Most 45acp semi-auto bbl's have chambers that are cut long. That means that oal is actually set by the shoulder of the bullet. Hence the plunk test. Once you've found that distance the bullets shoulder sticks out of the case. It tells you the starting point to test other bullets. Things like too long of a oal (will not fit mags) & failure to feed because of an odd nose profile come into play. But you at least have a place to start.
The h&g68 also takes things out of play like throated vs non-throated bbl's that can and will change the oal/shoulder height of a rn bullet. But will not affect the h&g68 swc nose profile.
The h&g is just an easy bullet to reload and has excellent visual characteristics.
Other things to do:
Expand your brass to the point that they are over expanded. Proper bullet seating/alignment is more important than brass. It's nothing to get 30/40/50 reloads out of a piece of 45acp brass. Wearing 45acp brass out should be the last thing on your mind.
Seat and crimp the bullet in different stages. This simply takes the differences in brass (length/thickness) out of play. Thicker/longer brass tends to bite into the bullet before it's fully seated because the die crimps is starting to crimp the bullet in place before it's fully seated. Some people use a lee factory crimp die, other do not (I do not use 1 myself).
Most of all, take pride in your work/craftsmanship. Quality over quantity, accuracy over good enough, reliability over volume. I've shot loaded over 10,000+ of those h&g#68 rounds pictured above. I have not had any issues of any kind, no ftf's/fte's or any other malfunctions of any kind. Hit the loud bullet and it not only goes bang every time, it actually hits what it's being aimed at.
A couple myths/swc 45acp feeding issues:
The magazine being used plays a huge difference. 3 different styles of 1911 mags. The usgi feed lips on the mag on the left are lllloooooonnnnngggg. The hybrid & wc mag lips are shorter for a earlier round release needed for the shorter jacketed hp's and the lead short nosed swc's.
Enter the h&g #68, it was designed to mimic the usgi hardball bullet profile and feed at the same place on the nose while maintaining the same shoulder height from the base of the bullet.
What makes the h&g68 easier to load is the reloader can clearly/easily see the shoulder line of the bullet. Some h&g #68's loaded, you can clearly see the shoulder of the bullet sticking above the top of the case.
What's happening is this. As others have already stated, the 45acp head spaces on the mouth of the case. Most 45acp semi-auto bbl's have chambers that are cut long. That means that oal is actually set by the shoulder of the bullet. Hence the plunk test. Once you've found that distance the bullets shoulder sticks out of the case. It tells you the starting point to test other bullets. Things like too long of a oal (will not fit mags) & failure to feed because of an odd nose profile come into play. But you at least have a place to start.
The h&g68 also takes things out of play like throated vs non-throated bbl's that can and will change the oal/shoulder height of a rn bullet. But will not affect the h&g68 swc nose profile.
The h&g is just an easy bullet to reload and has excellent visual characteristics.
Other things to do:
Expand your brass to the point that they are over expanded. Proper bullet seating/alignment is more important than brass. It's nothing to get 30/40/50 reloads out of a piece of 45acp brass. Wearing 45acp brass out should be the last thing on your mind.
Seat and crimp the bullet in different stages. This simply takes the differences in brass (length/thickness) out of play. Thicker/longer brass tends to bite into the bullet before it's fully seated because the die crimps is starting to crimp the bullet in place before it's fully seated. Some people use a lee factory crimp die, other do not (I do not use 1 myself).
Most of all, take pride in your work/craftsmanship. Quality over quantity, accuracy over good enough, reliability over volume. I've shot loaded over 10,000+ of those h&g#68 rounds pictured above. I have not had any issues of any kind, no ftf's/fte's or any other malfunctions of any kind. Hit the loud bullet and it not only goes bang every time, it actually hits what it's being aimed at.
