LED question

[venomballistics]

It can happen.
LEDs are semiconductor devices.
As such, they have strict specifications, where vacuum tubes or incandescent bulbs have suggestions.
If conditions strayed outside the range of those specifications, be it voltage or temperature, perhaps even humidity, they will take damage

 

[Imissedagain]

Breakers and on/off switches have two sides.
1. The line side, that has the 125VAC hot wire.
2. The load side, which has the device, in your case the LED light.

A bad switch might have power on the line side, but when turned on, no or low volts on the load/LED side.
Replace switch...... but....
make sure the bad power is not caused by the load drawing amps, when the switch is turned on, and power loss is before the LEDs on/off switch.
I just had to replace a couple.... problem solved and the LEDs in the bathroom were back on.

A bad neutral could be another cause.

The ground, or as we call it.... the earth ground has another function which is not involved in suppling power to the loads.

I use meters and always have a long duplex cable, with 4 alligator clips attached for trouble shooting, as you will need to attach your meter leads to the correct wires.

No one should graduate high school without knowing basic home wiring safety and troubleshooting skills involving Alternating Current... 125/250 VAC.

Direct Current or 12/24/36/48 VDC is another area.

 

[Imissedagain]

You can daisy chain light fixtures as opposed to running wires to each one, and have one on/off switch either way.
We use the term Daisy Chain as opposed to wiring in series, because you are just stringing the power wires from one light's input to another light's input.

Series might be better used to describe it if the power ran thru the LEDs in one light before going on to the next one.
Bad idea.

 

[Imissedagain]

On boats with metal thru hulls, we like to wire each to earth ground, with it's own wire as opposed to Daisy Chaining them.
That way, if one wire is loose or broken along the chain, you don't loose the galvanic protection on down the line.

Galvanics, lightning protection, earth ground and other mysteries of boats on the water.

 

[Tom S.]

Junction box attached to a horizontal purlin, on the other side of which is attached the sheet metal exterior wall. Lot of wind lately, makin' the walls vibrate like a two dollar banjo. Probably a wire nut I didn't properly snug down, loosened by the vibration. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

It's a good practice to wrap wire nut connections with electrical tape. Most electricians use 3M Super 33+ vinyl tape but I prefer the old friction cloth tape that conforms better and (IMHO) seals better. When wrapping tape, fold the last 1/4" in over itself to provide a small tab to make it easier to unwind the tape should you ever need to do so.

 

[Narragansett]

It's a good practice to wrap wire nut connections with electrical tape. Most electricians use 3M Super 33+ vinyl tape but I prefer the old friction cloth tape that conforms better and (IMHO) seals better. When wrapping tape, fold the last 1/4" in over itself to provide a small tab to make it easier to unwind the tape should you ever need to do so.

I thought Friction tape was just used for hockey sticks.

Well, sadly, many electricians are using the junk tape from China. The cost of Scotch 33+ or 88 is considerably more, but it is the only tape you will find in my house.

And yes, I have rubber, friction and varnish cambric too.

 

[Narragansett]

And so, are the lights back on?

 

[Jon651]

I have in my shop building ten 4-ft LED lights, all on the same circuit. I put them in about 5 years ago, and probably have 1500 -2000 hours on them. For switched last week or so, when I have switched them on there has been a second or so of delay in lighting. Today when I hit the switch there was no light from any of them.

Before I shell out the $ and climb the ladder to replace them all, I'd appreciate any knowledge, suggestions or wild-*** guesses re any diagnosis or cure. Mass suicide of light fixtures is a new one on me. (Yes, the circuit is live.)

My thoughts:
1. Bad switch
2. Bad connection (at the switch or a loose wire nut). This can be especially troublesome if you have older aluminum wiring in winter).
2-1/2. Check your ground.
3. Temp might be below the rated operating range
4. LEDs are electronic and sensitive to power surges. If they are all bad at the same time you may have had a surge or spike in your line voltage so I recommend a "whole house" surge suppressor that attaches to an empty slot on your breaker panel.

Good luck!

 

[rustythread]

And so, are the lights back on?

Yup.

add gobbledygook to fill up minimum msg limit

 

[Spurdann]

A properly sized correctly installed wire nut does not need electrical tape.

 

[Narragansett]

Yup.

add gobbledygook to fill up minimum msg limit

And the problem was??

 

[rustythread]

And the problem was??

See posts 12 and 19--loose connection at wire nut, likely vibrated looser by high winds on metal wall.

 

[crstrode]

If even a portion of the many suggestions are taken as gospel, your house will burn down after your death by electricity.

 

[Walkin Horse]

Breakers and on/off switches have two sides.
1. The line side, that has the 125VAC hot wire.
2. The load side, which has the device, in your case the LED light.

A bad switch might have power on the line side, but when turned on, no or low volts on the load/LED side.
Replace switch...... but....
make sure the bad power is not caused by the load drawing amps, when the switch is turned on, and power loss is before the LEDs on/off switch.
I just had to replace a couple.... problem solved and the LEDs in the bathroom were back on.

A bad neutral could be another cause.

The ground, or as we call it.... the earth ground has another function which is not involved in suppling power to the loads.

I use meters and always have a long duplex cable, with 4 alligator clips attached for trouble shooting, as you will need to attach your meter leads to the correct wires.

No one should graduate high school without knowing basic home wiring safety and troubleshooting skills involving Alternating Current... 125/250 VAC.

Direct Current or 12/24/36/48 VDC is another area.

We were too busy in school learning how to dissect a sentence.