Lee factory crimp die

Mikeinkaty

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I've started using this die for crimping. I loaded over 1500 rounds with the seating/crimp die that came with the 3 die set. I have found that the factory crimp die is totally consistent with much simpler setup. I think it's actually faster by not having to fiddle with the seating/crimp die trying to get good crimps. FYI, I only load 357 magnum for revolver and rifle.
 
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Within some limitations the Carbide Factory Crimp die is one of Lee's better ideas. Great for jacketed bullets and cast not over .357-.358" in diameter. You like it use it, why do you need anyone else's opinion? Unfortunately you will get lot's of negative responses, but they usually seem to be from people who neither have used the CFC die nor understand it!

FWIW I use it for several calibers, and have since they were first introduced years ago.
 
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I like the 4-die setup in my Lee Turret. I load a couple bullet types for several cartridges, and switching is fairly easy. I unscrew the seat and crimp dies pretty far out, and then tighten the seating die until I get the desired length. Then I advance to the crimping die, raise the ram, and tighten the crimp knob until I make contact. Then I lower the ram, and dial in however much additional crimp I want (usually between a quarter turn to a turn and a half).

I marked the seating and crimping knobs with a Sharpie to make precise adjustment easier.
 
I use one in .357 that goes in my lever gun. It made things a little easier to get rounds that consistently chambered smoothly. The only down side is I have to deprime/size separately on my Classic Turret. I don't have enough stations for the FCD and the powder cop die. I use the seat/crimp combo die on my .38 setup destined for my revolver. I think I could dispense with the FCD for the lever at this point without any feed issues, but it does make adjusting for a different bullet profile easier. I'll stick with it for now.
 
Only rifle ammo I crimp is the 30-06.

I have a very old Lee that I use and it just keeps on ticking.

Have only crimped the 150gr FMJ and Remington Cor-Lock
with the cannelure.
 
I can not use the FCD for my .44 loads in older S&Ws as it runs a little small for those revolvers, but otherwise find it quite useful. BTW, there is some diameter variation in the "fail safe" sizing ring. Discovered whilst messing with various .45 Colt and ACP loading projects. I just measure them and use where appropriate.
 
BTW, the bottleneck and the straightwall Lee FCD's are completely different in concept and construction.

I have limited experience with the bottleneck type, just a couple of calibers. 7-30 Waters and 25-20 WCF. The .25 WCF FCD had lots of burrs in the interior where the collet fingers were cut. Boogered up the cases something terrible! Have since sorted the drama, but the (deceased) fellow that owned it before me gouged quite a few cases. Annoying+ as .25-20 isn't littering the countryside.
 
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I have been using the Lee FCD since I started reloading. I use a crimping die on everything I reload, 9mm, 38spl, 40cal, 45acp, 44spl, 44mag, 45 colt, M1 carbine, 5.56. 308. I think crimping prevent bullet setback in semi autos, and lever guns or bullet jump or creep in revlovers.

That is my story and I am sticking to It.
 
I am honestly astonished that this post has survived 24 hours without an FCD naysayer having his way with it. I made the mistake once (OK maybe twice) of mentioning that I use the FCD on this site and the naysayers attacked. Apparently, the FCDs are in a category with fat ladies and mopeds in that they are fun to ride when nobody is looking, but god help you if your friends find out.

I personally like them and have never had an issue with them. My rounds are accurate enough to win matches when I do my part. Not sure what else you could ask for.

Mike
 
I started with RCBS dies and when I finally got tired of fighting seating and crimping in one step I just bought a separate RCBS seat/crimp die and took the seating stem out and use it as the crimp die.

Didn't really know enough about the LFCD die at the time so I just stuck with the die that matched my RCBS set. Works just fine for me and I'm sure the LFCD would as well.
 
I am honestly astonished that this post has survived 24 hours without an FCD naysayer having his way with it. I made the mistake once (OK maybe twice) of mentioning that I use the FCD on this site and the naysayers attacked. Apparently, the FCDs are in a category with fat ladies and mopeds in that they are fun to ride when nobody is looking, but god help you if your friends find out.

I personally like them and have never had an issue with them. My rounds are accurate enough to win matches when I do my part. Not sure what else you could ask for.

Mike
Vortec(Mike)I agree 100% with you.I started using the Lee FCD many years ago One of my very good friends happens to be a twice CDN champ PPC.Now he can shoot(50yds offhand,he's mad at himself when he drops an 8!!!)I told him that the Lee FCD was improving my scores,all other things being equal.He tried it and now uses it all the time.
But comments on this(and other sites)made me think;The die sizes back both the brass and the inserted bullet;the brass has some snap back capacities but lead well,not so;kind of stays to it's smaller size.
Since I shoot only my own cast bullet(being quite soft for target work),after a while,it occured to me:even if the bullet starts with a smaller diameter because of the FCD,it gets bumped up by the powder charge.Of course,if you shoot jacketed bullets,the sizing to a smaller diameter effect of the FCD will have a negative effect since the jacketed bullet does not bump up as easily under initial gas pressure.

Am I wrong here?
Qc
 
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The carbide sizing ring really should only work as a failsafe, squeezing down those rounds that wouldn't otherwise chamber. But since cast bullets are often larger than jacketed, you can lose that desired oversize in some cases.

Final judge should be your targets. If it helps, use it. If worse, do something else. I end up having large selections of dies, as internal dimensions vary quite a bit. Sometimes I modify dies to suit. Maddening sometimes. My log book now has a large section devoted just to die selection for various loads for each caliber, and sometimes particular revolvers!
 
When I bought my second hand reloading setup, it was completely RCBS equipment. Which is ok, because I got a lot of expensive equipment for $150. All of my die sets were 3pc RCBS, 9mm, 45acp, 38spl, and 357mag.

When loading 38/357 using the built in roll crimp, the RCBS die would always 'chew' up the mouth of my cases. It would sheer off hair like strands of brass every loading and I knew it had to be weakening my case mouths.

Eventually I got into loading 44mag, something I didn't already have dies for. So I ordered the 4pc Lee die set which comes with the FCD. I was going to get RCBS because I was impressed with the quality, but just didn't want to spend the extra compared to the cost of the Lee set with FCD. So the Lee set is what I got.

After using the Lee dies, they are definitely cheaper than the older RCBS sets I have, but they work just fine. The biggest plus was the FCD. It easily and perfectly roll crimps for me without issue. No chewing my case mouths up, no sheering brass off. I was really impressed with the FCD. So much so, that I went and purchased just the FCD for 38/357.

Now, I load my 38/357 using my normal RCBS dies, but I only use the seater/crimper die for seating and use the FCD as the final step for crimping. No more buggered case mouths.

I may not be a complete fan of Lee, but their FCD can definitely be worthwhile. I will probably always use one from now on.
 
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I have the FCD for 380 Auto, 9 MM, 357 and 44 Mag. I still use them for 380 Auto, 357 and 9 MM, but retired the 44 Mag FCD for a Redding profile crimp die. With the 44 Mag and .430 coated lead cast bullets I was feeling entirely too much drag going through the carbide sizing ring with most cases for my comfort. Only with the old Remington brass I have with the cast bullets did I feel that it wasn't slightly resizing the bullets when being run through the carbide sizing ring. With the Redding profile crimp die I don't feel that resistance when setting a crimp. And with 380 Auto, 357 Mag and 9 MM I don't feel the sizing ring contacts enough to potentially cause resizing problems with cast bullets. I do like the way the Lee adjusts for setting the crimp better than the Redding crimp die though. And if I could have busted out the carbide ring out of the 44 Mag FCD I would never have bought the Redding die.
 
you cant allways count on neck tension alone to produce consistent ignition. a uniform crimp as with the FCD should give you a more uniform pressure build up at ignition this in turn should give you a lower std deviation and extreme spread in velocity,hence forth better accuracy. this is all speculation but it makes alotta sense to me. i have a LFCD for all the cartridges i load, i dont allways use them but i own them lolol.
 
I only load .45 ACP with cast bullets and run all of it through a Lee FCD. I mentioned this once on another forum and I was indeed attacked. I was told the FCD is a crutch and that if I knew how to reload I wouldn't need it. I was also told by the "experts" that using it negatively affects accuracy.

I continue to use it regardless of what negative comments others might have about it. I can go to the range knowing that I won't have any issues with rounds that won't chamber. As far as it affecting accuracy, I have never seen anyone prove it does.
 
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