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BillBro

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Which is extremely rare in this AO, and a revolver is all the more rare.

Killing some time I wandered into a local place that I dont visit often because theyre geared more towards the upper-crust water fowlers but they did have a case with some consignment revolvers and one of those was a 6" 686-3 that is just gorgeous, but is a 6", not at the top of my wish list.

I gave it a cursory inspection and lock-up is solid and timing seems spot on. It has a good crown and the bore, from what I could see, looked clean. It has a satin, blasted type finish with few defects, minor ones for sure. The trigger is HEAVY! WOW!! I couldnt tell you if it was smooth though because by the time I got the hammer to drop I was shaking so bad I couldnt feel a thing. Dang, Ive never felt a trigger that heavy. The hammer did finally drop though. Upon looking it over I saw a small part just behind the trigger, inside the trigger guard coming through the frame. What is that? The guy behind the counter first told me it was "what made the gun fire", not. Then he was telling me it was a trigger stop, not. Anyone know what I saw? Oh, it did have a really nice set of stocks too.

$1,000 asking price seems a little high but what isnt these days? I must say though Im tempted. Your thoughts? Would you haggle? I mean its not a 4" -4.
 
If the trigger stop was set too far out, it could make the trigger very hard to pull at the end.

This is a timely subject for me. How does one go about adjusting it? As a follow up.....When did Smith start putting them on K frames?
 
Which is extremely rare in this AO, and a revolver is all the more rare.

Killing some time I wandered into a local place that I dont visit often because theyre geared more towards the upper-crust water fowlers but they did have a case with some consignment revolvers and one of those was a 6" 686-3 that is just gorgeous, but is a 6", not at the top of my wish list.

I gave it a cursory inspection and lock-up is solid and timing seems spot on. It has a good crown and the bore, from what I could see, looked clean. It has a satin, blasted type finish with few defects, minor ones for sure. The trigger is HEAVY! WOW!! I couldnt tell you if it was smooth though because by the time I got the hammer to drop I was shaking so bad I couldnt feel a thing. Dang, Ive never felt a trigger that heavy. The hammer did finally drop though. Upon looking it over I saw a small part just behind the trigger, inside the trigger guard coming through the frame. What is that? The guy behind the counter first told me it was "what made the gun fire", not. Then he was telling me it was a trigger stop, not. Anyone know what I saw? Oh, it did have a really nice set of stocks too.

$1,000 asking price seems a little high but what isnt these days? I must say though Im tempted. Your thoughts? Would you haggle? I mean its not a 4" -4.

Sounds like you were in Easton.
For a good one, I suspect that's the number these days. Any shop that I've been in recently-Pay the number or Go away, is the attitude. Frankly, that's been the attitude of every shop that I've ever visited. It's never been the gun show dance that some folks need to have.
Perhaps shops operate differently in other parts of the country.
 
You'll have to take the sideplate off and then you can use a small screwdriver to loosen the screw holding it. Swivel it in or out to your satisfaction and then retighten the screw. Use some green locktite on the threads if you have it.

S&W removed these from service revolvers for absolute reliability for LEOs, but you can still see the slot sometimes in 80s era revolvers like the Models 15, and 19.

The stop was really only useful in the SA trigger mode for bullseye shooting. I keep them installed on my S&Ws, but as I shoot mostly DA, it really does not serve much purpose for me. As I recall, I have them on my Models 17, 18, and my 19s." None of my fixed sight S&Ws have the trigger stop.
 
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Remove the sideplate. There is a small screw that goes through the trigger stop. Loosen the screw, and the trigger stop is free to pivot around the screw. Adjust the stop to where you want it and tighten the screw.

You can remove the screw and trigger stop if you don't want it there. The screw is the same one used to hold the (old style) rear sight on the gun, so you can keep that for a spare part.
 
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Price is too high, this isn’t some rare prize. As too the brutal trigger pull, it might just need a good dose of lubricant. It may have been sitting around drying out for years.
Those trigger stops tend to be a pain, most, or at least many, just remove them.
 
Maybe an acceptable price for someone who really wants a 6” pre lock and hasn’t been able to find one. I am still seeing the more desirable pre lock 4 inchers for $550 to $650. 686-4 7 shooters are in a different league, especially 2.5 inchers.
 
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For $1000, I'm thinking N-frame. The MSRP for a new 686 is $959, so I'd consider that to be the maximum, but as with most things, retailers tend to sell for a little less than MSRP, not more than MSRP.
 
Camster, you appear to know the area. You probably know the shop as well, over by the Avalon Theater? Your right about the attitudes of the gun shops here. When we first came here I was very depressed by the lack of decent gun shops in the area, they all have that attitude. Luckily weve moved to a different county and Im 5 minutes from probably the best shop in the Shore.
 
Maybe a little high, but vintage Smith revolvers are drying up. I gave $800 plus 9% tax for a 686-4 4" in a local pawnshop in like new condition a couple of months back, and they would not negotiate at all, even though the gun had been sitting there for 4-5 months with no takers. As a previous poster said, the attitude in most gunshops around my area is that you pay up or go away and let someone else get it. The era of "dickering" on price for used revolvers is over I agree with all advice given above as possible remedies for the issue.
 
Camster, you appear to know the area. You probably know the shop as well, over by the Avalon Theater? Your right about the attitudes of the gun shops here. When we first came here I was very depressed by the lack of decent gun shops in the area, they all have that attitude. Luckily weve moved to a different county and Im 5 minutes from probably the best shop in the Shore.

I live a few hundred miles north of that area, suburban NY, but I used to attend the Easton Waterfowl Festival. Each time, I'd take a look around that shop. Another shop, near the Bay bridge, appeared to be mostly shotguns. Semi-tempted to move to DE for tax purposes and a different political climate.
Not uncommon in my area for dealers to want the new retail price for used guns, or a big premium.
My LGS wants 1600 for a 617-1 with factory combats. Nice gun, but that nice? A 617-6 four incher sold quickly at something around 900.
A new 17, if available is about a $1000 gun, but the last three used 17s (17-4/-5 guns) I saw in my area, were priced from 1200-1400.
I was actually tempted by one in the lower range, but in the few weeks since I first saw it, it had picked up a few handling marks.
 
Camster, you appear to know the area. You probably know the shop as well, over by the Avalon Theater? Your right about the attitudes of the gun shops here. When we first came here I was very depressed by the lack of decent gun shops in the area, they all have that attitude. Luckily weve moved to a different county and Im 5 minutes from probably the best shop in the Shore.

I’m guessing Albright’s?

You’ll find more new and used revolvers at Atlantic Guns in Rockville or Gaithersburg than any gun store in MD I’m familiar with.
 
After several documented incidents of the trigger stop screw loosening and allowing the stop to rotate, thereby preventing the revolver from discharging, our agency mandated the removal of the stops. This was mid-70's until the shift in the mid-80's from (mostly) K and L-frames to semi-autos.
 
After several documented incidents of the trigger stop screw loosening and allowing the stop to rotate, thereby preventing the revolver from discharging, our agency mandated the removal of the stops. This was mid-70's until the shift in the mid-80's from (mostly) K and L-frames to semi-autos.

Correct - I recall my dept got a letter from S&W advising to remove all trigger stops from dept owned guns immediately due to the screw getting loose. The stop moving and preventing the trigger from being pulled. As far as the gun in question - don't buy it over priced or not just because it is there… wait for what you want and pay a less and fair price. They made zillions of them. The challenge is in the hunt!
 
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I guess there are a few on here who are familiar with the area, and the store. Nice enough guys and I did score a very, very nice Savage bolt gun there a few years ago but otherwise as I, and others have said theyre geared towards waterfowlers. The used handgun market around here just blows.

Ah, yes, the waterfowl festival. Where they close down the streets in the middle of town and totally jack traffic.

Youre probably familiar with the decoy aution house in St Michael's then Camster. I worked in the business right beside them, Gatsbys Collection, for the past 7 years until they closed a few months ago.

John Patrick youre correct, Albrights is the shop and like I said, theyre pricey.

I already own a 4" and love it Narragansett, a pre-lock 7 shot +, -6 model. Its been labled a "transitional model by some here as it is a pre-lock with a CCH hammer with the firing pin but has a mim trigger.





Im rarely looking for anything specific. Like I said I just wandered in and saw a pretty S&W which always grabs my eyes. After a little consideration though I just decided that the 6" barrel just isnt my cup of tea right now, that plus I just think the price is a little high and as someone else said, gun shops around here just wont negotiate, some are actually rude about it when you try.
The 5" barrel on the 627 above is fine but its on an N frame which just looks better proportionally.

Oh well, Christmas is coming. ��
 
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