Lightening single-action trigger pull on 617

[3strokes]

I have a brand new 617-6 (model is -6 but it's a 10-rounder).
I've been Googling and searching (to no avail) how to lighten the SA trigger pull (It's at 5+ lbs now).

I was able to replace he innards of my Ruger 22/45 Mark III thanks to info and detailed instructions on rugerforum and guntalk-online. I can find nothing similar here.

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

Replace the trigger rebound spring with a lighter one. Get a kit of springs from midwayusa or Brownells.

 

[andyo5]

Replace the rebound spring with a 12 bl Wolff's version. Remove from the length of the strain screw until double action pull is 7.5 to 8.0 lbs. Don't go lighter than that. Jerry Miculek's website has a video about this procedure, and he also sells a DVD on revolver tuning.
If single action is all you are concerned with, just do the rebound spring swap. Shortening the strain screw will not influence single action pull.
I suggest getting an RCBS trigger pull scale to measure pull weight. Remember, not to snap the hammer on an empty chamber with rimfire guns. Place spent cases in the chambers, to protect the cylinder.

 

[Nightowl]

Beware that the .22 rimfire needs a pretty good smack, and lightening the trigger too much can result in inconsistent ignition. Putting a new spring set in is probably the easiest adjustment you can make if you are not experienced inside the sideplate.

 

[H Richard]

I would not touch the mainspring for the reasons Nightowl states. A 13 to 14 Lb. return spring should reduce the single action pull substantially. I actually wouldn't do this until after I had put over 500 rounds through the gun. Even CNC machined parts need some use to "wear them in". I have a 617-6 (10 round) and the trigger is right around 3.5 lbs. It is all stock.

 

[3strokes]

Thanks for all the informative replies. I have ordered from Brownells. Springs Kit 1667: 1 each: 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15 lb. springs.

I have also ordered Jerry Miculek's DVD.

I have a question. On Youtube Replace trigger rebound spring - S&W Revolver - YouTube at minute 1.10, after removing the side plate screws, he taps the grip frame (grips removed) several times with the plastic handle of his screwdriver.

WHY does he do that?

I don't like doing something without knowing what it will accomplish. Am I moving something internally that might shoot across the room and I wouldn't know where to replace it? From the video, replacing the spring seems pretty straightforward. I also have just bought a gunsmith box of specialty screwdrivers and one of the "heads" or bits is for those cases.

Now do I start with the 11 spring or the 15 and work my way up or down, until I reach the best result?

At this time I don't want to even think about thew main spring or its tension screw.

Mind you, the factory trigger SA tension is extremely crisp and pleasant. I just wonder if it might feel better at, say 3 to 4 lbs rather than the 5 lbs-pull at which it's measured now (I have a Wheeler trigger pull scale.)

 

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

If you can find a way to take the side plate off without tapping on the gun, I'd like to hear about it. The tolerances are typically VERY tight. Tapping it will work the plate out of position. Don't make the mistake of trying to pry it off. BTW, my 617 trigger would not return properly with a 13 lb spring. I put in the 15 lb spring and it came out about 1 lb lighter in SA and almost 2 lighter in DA. YMMV. I would start with a 13 lb spring and work up. You can start lower and work up, if you choose.

 

[3strokes]

Beware that the .22 rimfire needs a pretty good smack, and lightening the trigger too much can result in inconsistent ignition. Putting a new spring set in is probably the easiest adjustment you can make if you are not experienced inside the sideplate.

Are we talking about the same concept here?
I'm wanting to lighten the trigger pull weight.
You're mentioning that lightening the trigger pull (before it breaks) will reduce the force of impact of the firing pin on the rim primer (smack)?
I don't know enough to say that one is or seems to me to be independent of the other, but ............... I'm still new at this???

 

[3strokes]

If you can find a way to take the side plate off without tapping on the gun, I'd like to hear about it. The tolerances are typically VERY tight. Tapping it will work the plate out of position. Don't make the mistake of trying to pry it off. BTW, my 617 trigger would not return properly with a 13 lb spring. I put in the 15 lb spring and it came out about 1 lb lighter in SA and almost 2 lighter in DA. YMMV. I would start with a 13 lb spring and work up. You can start lower and work up, if you choose.

Thanks for the info. It's very appreciated (no sarcasm, I really appreciate all the info and help I can get).
Your suggestion to start with the 13 also makes sense.
From my very old days at Basic programming, one way of finding is to split the data in half. Your "target" is either in the 1st half or in the 2nd and your work your way down to the last result. (Or stick with the 13 if the 12 or 14 do not feel as good.)
No mail for the next four days. I don't think I'll be receiving my Wolff springs before the end of next week anyway. Will try to put a couple of hundred rounds through it this long weekend.

Happy Easter everybody.

 

[H Richard]

You need to review the Miculek video before trying to remove the side plate. The reason to "TAP" the grip frame is to vibrate loose the side plate. If you make any attempt to "Pry" it up you will bend it and it will never fit again. It may take as many as 10-20 taps, depending on how hard you tap and how tight the plate is. Do not be surprised if a long flat rod falls out, that is the hammer block safety. it can be ticklish to reinstall, start with it in the upermost position on the return slide stud. To remove the return slide you need to use a "slotted" tip swcrewdriver blade that will fit inside the hole in the rear of the return slide catching the spring edges and over the frame stud holding it in. Gently depress the spring and then lift up the rear of the slide until it lifts clear of the frame stud. There is a special tool for this, but you can make one from an old screwdriver, you need to grind it to the correct width and cut the slot. Watch the video a couple times first.

 

[3strokes]

You need to review the Miculek video before trying to remove the side plate. The reason to "TAP" the grip frame is to vibrate loose the side plate.

Got the Video and watched it a couple of times. Had I not been able to get this info from this Forum (which also directed me to the Miculek DVD) I would never have dared try to remove the side plate.

Do not be surprised if a long flat rod falls out, that is the hammer block safety.

It did (fall out)

it can be ticklish to reinstall,

It was. Alas, last night I opened it to just look at it, before trying to install the Wolff rebound spring once I received the Gunsmitthertools tool. I was unable to replace the hammer block. This took place after work when I went home to pick up my guns to go to the Monday evening handgun shooting session. I was going to be late. After several unsuccessful efforts to close it with the hammer block properly in place, I left it out. I did read that the gun could still function with that block.

start with it in the upermost position on the return slide stud.

I'll wait for the tool to do the part below

To remove the return slide you need to use a "slotted" tip screwdriver blade that will fit inside the hole in the rear of the return slide catching the spring edges and over the frame stud holding it in. Gently depress the spring and then lift up the rear of the slide until it lifts clear of the frame stud. There is a special tool for this, but you can make one from an old screwdriver, you need to grind it to the correct width and cut the slot. Watch the video a couple times first.

I don't have the tools necessary to make that tool. I live in an apartment and my range of tools is pretty restrained (noise).
I just hope I receive that special tool before the weekend (so that I can install the rebound spring.)
I also have three Youtube videos (one of them is by Miculek).

I'll let y'all know how it goes.

 

[qrachel]

I'm no expert by any measure; however, IU have a new 617 w/~300 rounds through it. It's very accurate and the action is getting smoother and smoother as I put ammo down range through it. I'm not sure what the magic number is but I'd give the gun 500-1,000 rounds before tinkering with it.

If a newbie like me can sense a difference after ~300 rounds, it seems likely someone with more experience ought to experience a more noticeable change. Not sure, but the wait (i.e. 500+ rounds) might eliminate any need to tune the gun with springs, a trigger job, etc.

Again, just pointing out that I know less than enough to be even dangerous yet.

R

 

[H Richard]

The accuracy of the 617 amazes me. I had just put a red dot on mine to compensate for my age related poor vision. This will really tell you when one likes a certain ammo. I found the 36 gr. 1280 fps Winchester bulk box "555" will hold a less than 5/8" group at 50 ft, all in the X ring. The 40 gr. will hold the 10 ring but not all in the X ring. Federal 36 gr 1280 fps won't even hold a 3" group. I'm still using it with the 3.5 lb factory trigger.

 

[3strokes]

Update

Good news first.
I managed to change the stock rebound spring with a Wolff 13lbs (mid-range of the set of 11 12 13 14 and 15)
Sweet trigger. Maybe 4.5 lbs. Factory was 5.3-ish.
Very crisp.

Bad News
I just couldn't replace the sideplate with the hammer block (supposedly) in position.
So I replaced the plate without the hammer block.

The reading the book (Kruhnhauser ...sp?) I thought that I'd try placing the hammer block in its groove in the sideplate and holding the side plate upside down, I'd bring the gun over it and lower the gun down.

So, off I go to remove the slide plate and try reinstating the hammer block........... The yoke screw is just turning and turning and turning and turning under the screwdriver and the scriew is NOT coming up. I turn the gun on it's side and the top of the yoke screw and a very thin spring fall out. The screw has lost its bottom half, stuck inside and blocking the yoke.

I'll try to clear it up tonight. S&W have a Warranty Centre in Canada but they won't send me a yoke screw before I tell them that I've cleared the hole and not messed up.
If I have messed up then I should send the gun over to them. More bloody paperwork to take the gun to the Post Office (Have to get an ATT ---not the UN one--- Authorization to Transport) and another ATT when the gun is returned.

 

[05CarbonDRZ]

OUCH! Getting that little piece of broken screw out of there is going to be a royal pain.I would just let the repair center do it as I am sure it will require special tools.

 

[3strokes]

OUCH! Getting that little piece of broken screw out of there is going to be a royal pain.I would just let the repair center do it as I am sure it will require special tools.

If, after taking the side plate out, I can't clear it without messing up, it will go to the Centre. THAT will require paperwork to just take the gun from home to the Post Office. Kalifornia has nothing to outdo Kanada when it comes to Kriminalizing and Obstaculating gun-owners.