Little Bighorn National Park

eb07

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This is one of the places I have always wanted to visit. 17 hours from me going to plan it for this summer.



Anyone been? Worth it? Any must see around there besides the park.
Thanks.
 
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I visited the battle ground many years ago. I don't recall it being a
National Park at that time. Gave me an earie or spooky feeling. I
guess it was all those ghosts around.

Do some homework. Read up on all you can about the battle. It
will help you relate to what you see when there.

I thought it well worth the trip. BTW I just looked it up and it is the
Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.

If you are coming up from Arizona, I-15 takes you almost directly
to Yellowstone Park, then a hard right over the the Little Bighorn.
Virginia City is on the route and worth seeing.
 
It has been since the early eighties when I was last there. I hear there have been a lot of changes, mostly to tell the story from both sides. If you only read one book, make it "Son of the Morning Star" by Evan Connell.

The setting is quite beautiful, as is that whole part of the country. The Big Horn Mountains are spectacular. Yellowstone is half a day away. For scenery that the locals call "the good stuff", I recommend the Beartooth Pass and the Chief Joseph scenic highway through the Sunlight Basin.
 
I enjoyed it in the 70's. The last time we visited was 1996 and we left early. If it's your thing enjoy it. Where previously it was one side dominate IMO it is now the opposite completely.
If I were going there I would consider Devils Tower and Mt Rushmore must see's. The Park is nice but gets crazy between June and Sept. I like to go in late May. You might see snow but you can get out of your car without bumping into people.
 
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I was there in 1970 and 1973. The National Cemetery is worth an hour or so. The first part is a collection of all the small fort cemeteries as they were shut down. It gives you a very quick but real glimpse of life and death on the prairie. The newer areas are typical of modern national cemeteries. Guy that died in service, veteran that wanted to be close to the Little Big Horn, and a few non-service people.

The big obelisk was placed over the mass grave of the troopers. When I was there, it was surrounded by short 4x4 posts, that marked where each trooper fell. You could see the battle progress as the troopers fell back, fell back, fell back, then the last 3 were back to back and fell. Custer's body was no where near the final trio!

"Diaries of the Big Horn" is a good feeling of what it felt like up to the battle (two scout and two trooper accounts). And an after view (two men from the 7th Inf. that cleaned up). The book was very inexpensive at $2.95 when I bought it. I think it is about $15 these days. (Mine is a second printing of the 1st Edition)

Another good read is "Campaigning with Custer" Out of print but many good libraries have it or can get it. It is by a member of the Kansas 7th Cavalry, that went with the US 7th Cavalry, two years before the 1876 battle. Great look at trooper life, and the difference between Federal troops and State troops!

Opinions about The Battle of the Little Big Horn, abound! And like body parts, most are not worth sharing. Read a few from the various sides, before you form your own. (You might want to avoid Libby Custer's as it is biased-due to love, maybe- and constantly repeated in books for the next 40+ years! I think it gives a bad view of War Widows!) A very strange view is, "Save the Last Bullet for Yourself".

When you are out there, spend the time to drive to Benteen's battlefield down the ridge. Get to know some of the Ghosts!

Ivan
 
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I used to go Mt trout fishing every year, I saw the signs for it many times but never stopped, sorry now I didnt.

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My favorite part of the country for rv road trips. Usually visit there in early June.

I enjoyed visiting the Little Bighorn site both times we visited, the last time about 5 years ago. Stayed at a little rv Park in Hardin, Montana.

Drove from there to Deadwood, SD. Stayed in Deadwood and took day trips to Mt. Rushmore, Devil's Tower, Crazy Horse, etc.

Drove from there to Cheyenne, Wyoming and stayed at the Terry Bison Ranch which offers rv sites, restaurant/lounge, horseback trail rides, hand feeding bison from a small scale railroad that takes you into the herd, etc.

Lots to see and do in that area. Have a great time!
 
WE go after Labor Day. I would skip Mt Rushmore==BIG tourist trap, don't take Park Passes. Devil's Tower was just like Close Encounters but not as nice a view. Deadwood was OK but all bikers. They charge to Wild Bill's gravesite. We stayed at Bullock's hotel.

Now: Chief Joseph Trail, Yellowstone, Sylvan Pass and Cody are worth it. Go North through Jackson and enter Yellowstone through the South Entrance. If you can, stay at Old Faithful Lodge. Animals will be migrating and mating. Then exit to the East through Sylvan Pass or North through Mammoth Hot Springs.

Little Bighorn was very moving (Ever been to Antietam==much the same). We go every couple of years==try to alternate Alaska with a trip to the Northern Rockies!
 
Read one of the NEW books about the battle before you go, which integrate the insights from the archaeological digs of the 1980s.

There are really not two sides, it's more like there are hundreds of pre-archaeology tales that contain a lot of fantasy, and there is what we now know most likely happened.

A lot of the classics, including "Son of the Morning Star", are outdated when it comes to the description of the actual events on Custer Ridge. They can still be good for the background on Custer and the 1876 campaign.

Good ones to start are "A Terrible Glory" by James Donovan and "The Last Stand" by Nathan Philbrick.

The best (but dry) academic summary, more like a crime scene report, is Richard Fox, "Archeology, History, and Custsr's Last Battle".
 
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Love to visit the batlefield myself. About halfway through "A Terrible Glory" by James Donovan and it is a great read. Enjoyed reading of previous battle in the book like the Sand Creek Massacre. Good understanding of events that transpired.
 
Been there the last 2 years, it's awesome. Get there early in the morning and begin by watching the scheduled video session. You can spend hours walking trails thru the battlegrounds or simply drive to various marked overlooks. The gift shop has most likely every book written about the battle and some outstanding displays. There is so much to learn about the politics, graft and power struggles leading up to and after the battle.
My wife and I spent many weeks traveling the west and the show begins at Wall, SD, then the Badlands, Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse, the roads in northern Wyoming, Cody, Glacier NP, Yellowstone, the Utah parks are sights to behold and ending at the Grand Canyon.
We purchased a lifetime pass for $10 a few years ago that gets you into most of the parks for free, it's $80 now but still a good deal.
Join AAA, they will send you as many maps and tour guides as you want.
Feel free to PM for any info, I'm far from an expert but recently covered from the Canadian border above West Glacier to the Grand Canyon and most things between.
 
I was there last about 10 years ago. I viewed the battle field from the perspective of a former infantry officer and student of period weapons. Once I actually walked the ground, I had a much better idea of how what probably happened and why based on the archeological evidence, and historical accounts.

IMHO, many of the views are flawed as they lack one or more critical perspectives.

For example, if you trace Reno's advance and retreat, you quickly realize that, given the weapons of the day, and the numbers he faced, he retreated to and held the only defensible ground in the area. He had a steep slope to the west, a steep draw to the south, a 1000 yards open terrain to the west and about 600 yards of open terrain to the north. He took some long range harassing fire from a hill to the North, but other wise had good fields of fire and the advantage of holding the high ground on the west and south sides of his position. It's not nearly as evident on a map as it is on the ground itself.

It also becomes clear why Custer made his last stand where he did. His Springfield carbine armed troops held the advantage in terms of effective range both as they fell back in a picket line along Battle Ridge, and on the military crest of the south slope of last stand hill facing toward Greasy Grass Ridge and covering Deep Ravine. His single shot .45-70 carbines commanded the ground about 380-400 yards to the nearest ridge. On the other side of last stand hill however, there are low ridges providing cover just 140 yards to the north and 200 yards to the east, within range of the rapid firing 1866s, 1873's etc being used by the Natives. As the battle progressed and the copper cased ammunition began to stick in the Springfield chambers, Custer lost that advantage in firepower and was over run.

It's one of the most interesting battlefields I've walked.
 
As far as what's in the area, Yellowstone is always nice, but it's about 5 hours west of Little Big Horn.

I lived in the Black Hills for about 20 years, but they are about 5 hours south east of Little Big Horn, with the Bear Lodge mountains in WY and Devil's Tower about 4 hours from LBH.

- Devils Tower is nice but plan on hiking around it, to get good views of it.

- Mount Rushmore's visitor center as originally completed in 1958 was awesome before the Park Service "improved" it beginning in 1998. It used to have natural trails and overlooks with the monument nicely framed by the pines. You can still get some of that if you hike the trails down closer to it, but the main visitor center and viewing area has all the charm of a Roman ***** house. They were shooting to make it look more monumental, but they missed. They also added parking structures and while the monument itself is free by law, they charge for the parking.

- Deadwood is a waste of time. Pre-gambling it was one of the most awesome and interesting towns in the Black Hills. However, after gambling it literally became a shell of it's former self. The exteriors are restored but the interiors are typical casino. There are a couple nicely restored houses in the area that can be toured but it's really not worth the trip. Lead is more interesting, but Lead also hasn't really maximized it's potential to provide actual history and color as a relief from the Deadwood gaming experience.

- Terry Peak's chair lift was worth riding in the summer for the views when I was a kid. Now you get to look at a strip mine, which pretty well kills that experience. The Terry peak look out is also ok, but spoiled a bit by the radio towers there. The Harney Peak look out in the southern Black Hills is much better.

- Spearfish Canyon with Spearfish Creek, Bridal Veil falls and Roughlock Falls is very nice in the summer and gorgeous in the fall when the leaves turn. There are also some very good hiking/cross country ski/mountain bike trails in the Spearfish area.

- Boulder Canyon going from Deadwood to Sturgis is also pretty.

- Sturgis itself is all bikers from the last week in July until about the second week of August and the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally (first full week in August) is more trade show and middle wanna be biker event than a motorcycle rally. If you like to ride motorcycles the Black Hills are awesome, but my advice is to just do it any other time from May through September and avoid the crowds of idiots on bikes around the rally.

- Ellsworth AFB has a decent air museum and the School of Mines and Technology in Rapid City has a good fossil museum.
 
Read one of the NEW books about the battle before you go, which integrate the insights from the archaeological digs of the 1980's.

The best (but dry) academic summary, more like a crime scene report, is Richard Fox, "Archeology, History, and Custsr's Last Battle".

I read this one and the actual scientific report, with the field notes! Now that is DRY!!! There were a lot of myths "busted", there were a few substantiated "tales" But to this day nobody KNOWS why Custer did what he did!

I will allow you to form your own opinion! But do some research of your own, including a visit to the battle field(s). I had a friend born around 1910 who visited the Battlefield in the mid to late 20's. She has seen every movie, book, and magazine (think tabloid) written up to her death in 1999. We took a whole summer to research the finds after the burn off of the 80's. I loaned her some of the more "unusual" reading on the subject, I had the State library locate some books she recommended (but were out of print since before WWII.) With all the new and old information, it is amazing, how bad my High School teachers got it!

Here are some good questions for you to look at:

What was the cause of the whole situation from the Indian side? from the Government side?

How many Indian warriors were there? How many dependents?

How many Soldiers were there? What was the weaponry and ammo supply?
What amount did the troopers, NCO's and Officers have of things like age, when they enlisted, and training/experience?

What was the battle plan for each battalion? did they carry out their orders? why were so many Medals of Honor awarded?

How long was each phase of the battles(s)?

In the several court marshal proceedings, Who benefited from each testimony? each verdict? and each book published? Including the recent ones? (Dad always taught me to follow the money!)

A critically important one: How many horses were there on both sides?

An odd one: Who killed Custer? What happened to his body?

Not quite 150 years later, there is still a great deal of interest! We could start a whole forum thread just on Custer's side arm!

Ivan
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I plan on gong in May. I have read every book known to man on the subject. With a terrible Glory being the last one. Unfortunately every time I planned on going, something came up. Hopefully it happens this year.
 
I went 10-12 years ago as a side trip when I was bird hunting in the area. Interesting, yes. But not that big of an event, in my view.
I would not drive long distance just to see it, but you may disagree.
 
I was there back in the 80's when headed to MT for an elk hunt. It was brutally cold and the park service was blowing out the irrigation system in preparation for winter. A somber place and the size of the surrounding area gives one a better understanding of battles and the separation of the cavalry as the events went down. You could feel lost souls and the hopelessness of the battle with the odds against them.
 
Go during Crow Fair and the reenactment, I think it's worth the trip. I've been several times, and never tire of going. I think the National Cemetery there is nice, and always thought what a special place to be buried.
 
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