"Lock" question

It didn't start as an anti-lock thread. Over 500 threads on "lock" led me to post the question. Not that searches are bad but when the return out weighs the question, it's a bit tough to search and through countless threads (500 threads x number of responses....)

I do not like the "try the search function" answer because, like in this example, the results are simply overwelming to read through unless you like to read 23 hours a day and do nothing else.
Asking a question that may seem common to those who read the board 16 hours a day isn't common to those who don't. JMHO

Simple question and I got my answer, thanks all.
 
Here's another opinion for your consideration. I agree, there are better lock options out there, but I removed my IL for another reason. I tend to be anal about the cleanliness and smooth operation of my revolvers. While doing a thorough internal cleaning, I noticed a lot of wear on the IL flag. With the amount of wear on this, I felt removing the flag just reduced the amount of un-necessary debris in the mechanism, plus over time, continued wear could cause it to break leaving large chunks of metal floating around in there.

I'm not an anti-lock fanatic, and the appearance isn't a deal breaker either, just saw a potential problem and removed it. My 66-7 now has clean guts, a smoother trigger, and one less part to cause a problem.;)
109.jpg


You can see the wear here.
 
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I had a Model 25-13 Mountain Gun in .45 Colt lock up on the 4th shot. It was the last time it did so because the lock came out.
 
Am I wrong or did I not read that the reason for the lock was that S&W was bought up by the company that makes the lock. Or did I just dream this problem?
 
My gun locked up...

I had a 360PD with about 400 rounds through it. The titanium started pitting and there were issues with the finish. I sent it back to S&W and they replaced the cylinder and redid the finish.

Apparently they took apart the frame and did not apply the flag on correctly. When I got the gun back the lock would engage if the gun was help upside down (flag would pop out), or sometimes while firing.

I took the gun to a gunsmith this time and he showed me how the spring was attached but not on correctly. He removed the flag for $50.00. When I sold the gun, I had to pay another $50.00 to have it placed back on.

I now have a 342M&P, and thanks to this forum and a pretty cool video, I saved the money and removed the flag myself.

Has anyone tried using a rubber grommet to fill the hole left on the frame where the flag's pivot used to be?
 
1965:

Rubber grommet? Egads, no, but a Bullseye Smith finely crafted metal (stainless, blued, ...) plug is THE solution. :D You can find his ad in the Classifieds/Misc section. He's a good egg, imho.

Chris
 
Am I wrong or did I not read that the reason for the lock was that S&W was bought up by the company that makes the lock. Or did I just dream this problem?
No you aren't dreaming. The dreaded lock has nothing to do with "the agreement"(which wasn't implemented anyway) or the government. It is obligatory is these lock threads to have a couple posts about S&W bowing to the government.:rolleyes::D

In passing, over the last several years S&W has changed from a closely held firm owned by Saf-T-Hammer to a widely held public holding corporation. Seems to me with the decline in American manufacturing that it would be appropriate to support one of the few we have left.

Bob
 
I haven't seen any credible evidence of one spontaneously locking.
fwiw, I just picked up a Model 60 Pro and shot numerous rounds of +P 38 and Silvertip .357mag and something amazing happened: the gun functioned flawlessly.

I used to be O.K. with the lock, and then I got a 329pd. My 329 would lock up about once every 6 shots (this was after the experts at S&W had it 3 times). The lock would slide out laterally and tie the hammer up. Of course, I'm just a screen name on the internet, so take my credibility (or lack thereof) for what it is worth.
 

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